TG02Z71

iTrader: (2)

That confirms some of my thoughts then.
I want to know how all this excess pressure builds up in the crankcase in the first place??m Is this just from pumping loss out the combustion chambers or some type of leak?? Or just normal.
Is this just a boosted motor thing, or does it happen in high perf high compression engines too?

Mort

Do you have both nipples blocked off at the intake manifold? The nipple to the PCV Valve on the driver's side and the nipple behind the TB. Both of these can pressurize the crankcase when you are under boost. If you do have them blocked off and you are getting oil pushed out to your catch can then you may be getting blow by the pistons or oil thrown around by the crank being vented.

8ALTNG

iTrader: (1)

Mort~ I have the both places running to my catch can with a breather on it. I can see the steamy stuff coming out of the breather at idle and when I let off the throttle. I do not have a problem with crank pressure. Has anyone taped into their oil pans with this kit?? If so can you send me or post a pic of it. thanks.

vanillagorilla

iTrader: (1)

Nice, looks like its time to ditch the solenoid valve and PCV. I just don't know how exactly I'm going to keep the pressure switch for the oil pump. I'll probably just tap it off the intake manifold where the PCV used to be.

Mort

You can leave the Hoobs switch attached to the nipple by the TB and block off the exit from the Hoobs switch and this will put your oil return pump on high when you are under boost. Vent the valve cover to a small filter or catch can. If you do that you may as well do the same to the PCV or put a check valve in the line from the PCV Valve to the intake manifold but then you will be sucking unmetered air into the intake manifold from the crankcase when you are under vacuum.
I plan to put the check valve in the line to the manifold from the PCV Valve and leave my PCV system operational for now.

TIM Z

iTrader: (12)

well, i found out that i had the ground wire to the manifold bolt instead of the switch valve. my mistake, now it works well. doubkle check your ground wire guys!its easty to think that cause its a ground wire that you should "ground "it to metal, but its already grounded and "grounds the switch valve that is mounted to the plastic manifold. i guess its an easy mistake to make.

TurboBerserker

iTrader: (1)

You can also run the pump in high speed mode all the time. Just put all three wires on the same post of the hobbs switch and viola -- no more high vs low speed pump action.

Snake Eater

there is just too much extra stuff going on with the STS kits. To many electronic things to go wrong IMO. I want to install a kit and be able to forget about it, or drive from Maine to Texas without worry of something like faulty extra PCV or oil return pump going out. I'm just not that trusting I guess.LOL

kbracing96

iTrader: (26)

I guess this is one reason I'm glad that when I bought my kit slightly used, it DIDN'T come with instructions. I had to figure out how it all worked on my own. I figured out that the ground wire there WAS for the solenoid, and is connected to the system ground that attaches to the fire wall.

FWIW, I have never had any problems with my PVC valve or anything blowing oil out. But I did have a problem with the pump blowing fuses when I was in WY this winter. Apparently, the oil pump doesn't like to pump cold oil in low speed when it is below 0* outside Just jumpered it to run in high speed all the time when it was really cold out and havn't had any problems since .

kbracing96

iTrader: (26)

I drive my truck all the time and have had virtually no problems with the STS. Its been all over the western United States and I don't hesitate to jump in it and head where ever. You can have problems with any motor, kit, vehicle, that just the nature of things.