oakley6575

iTrader: (5)

They aren't out yet. Check the fuel section for the thread of everlasting disappointment.

ak2007r6

iTrader: (1)

ΔΔ didn't think they were available yet

Denali08

Ok. There is a change in plan for fuel pump setup. For searching threads for dual intank pumps, I discovered that return style fuel system has a smaller bucket that cannot cutting the bucket and then will end up with fuel starving if less than half tank full.

So, since those dual pumps from squash perf are not ready yet. I will install aeromotive 340 pump with racetronix harness that I already have to tune it today as the tuner is leaving and may not be available in 2-3 weeks.

I read in this link that it can handle 820hp at 60psi fuel pressure.

Fuel Pump Comparison Test : Real Street Performance Engine Parts, Pistons Rods Cams Valvetrain and More

Denali08

Aeromotive 340 was installed. 3.3 bar Dmax map sensor in the back of the intake. Fabricated a bracket to hold the map sensor in place, not to pop out under boost. Did not take pic as cover was already put on when I arrived.

Off to the Dyno. Truck would not idle good on SD using 3.3 bar map from Dmax no matter what.

Disconnected MAF plug and tried to tune the idle but tuner couldn't get it to idle.

Do I have to cut MAF wires and keep only IAT wire? Or it's enough to disable the MAF from the tune and leave the MAF plugged??

So, I am thinking to put a T in boost line to connect GM old style 3-bar map sensor at the firewall and keep stock map just to plug the hole at the back of the intake. Will try this tomorrow although tuner is pushing to tune it using stock map and MAF going SD. And yes he said SD. He thinks it will work, check my other post. He says will fix max boost and make it max MAF reading. Then will tune it all the way below but I have to keep it at one boost setting, cannot lower boost using my boost controller.

I am insisting on SD tune to make sure it's done right and to be able to lower boost from 15 to 9psi(WG spring) as needed.

Stock Truck Map Sensor for Boost Tuning (SD Tune) - Page 4 - PerformanceTrucks.net Forums

2ktransam

iTrader: (12)

The dual pumps will fit in your bucket. You have the same one as me and I have had mine in for 5 years and 50k miles without any issues. You do need to keep it above 1/4 tank if you plan on beating it not 1/2. I have cut a 1.45 60' in my truck below a 1/2 tank without an issue. I know a 255 pump falls off around 500rwhp so I don't think a 340 will get you to 800rwhp on a boosted engine. It would on a NA engine but I don't think it would with FI. Just make sure you watch your fuel pressure like a hawk.

2ktransam

iTrader: (12)

I don't think the 3.3 bar sensor is meant to read vacuum so that could be causing your idle issues.

You do not have to unplug the maf to get it to work in SD. If the tuner sets up the SD tune correctly it will not use the maf at all except to read the iat's. If you unplug the maf it will not read iat's unless you have the stand alone sensor which will make it run like **** too. It scares me that your tuner tried to tune the idle with it unpluged since it won't work.

I would switch to the 3 bar sensor and put the stock one back in to block the hole. Just make sure that he uses the 3 bar sensor for the SD tune and doesn't lie to you and use the stock one. Like I said on the other thread the 1 bar SD tune will not work. You can tune a supercharger that way but not a turbo. Be very carefull with this guy. I know a couple of tuners that are very reputable that have told me some of the same BS. I took a bunch of notes with me when I took the EFI 101 class and personally watched the teachers prove their BS wrong on the dyno. If you have the time, it's worth learning to tune it yourself. I had my tuned initially on 6psi before I bought EFI Live and learned to tune it myself. Believe me, it will pay for itself in the long run.

Denali08

Thanks for the PM, 2ktransam, I will do.

Oh boy, we put back stock map and was day and night difference in the idle. Tuner is leaving for two weeks and did not have time to do SD tune.

So, he offered me a free tune on MAF to 9 psi. We put it on the Dyno and made two runs.

1st run I watched the fuel pressure gauge and he was watching the AFR. He aborted at 5000RPM because it started to lean. Below that it was 11.8 AFR. Fuel pressure is 60 psi then jumps close 80 psi, so, aeromotive 340 is doing the job.

See attached Dyno graph shot by my iPhone.

Denali08

2nd run, I kept an eye on boost gauge. Done a pull and he aborted at 5000RPM because it went lean and I knew why.

Boost jumped to 20 psi on the boost gauge.

We left it there and I will have figure out the reason for boost spike to 20 psi!!!

WG is 9psi spring.

Boost controller is hooked as per Hallman MBC instruction.

My boost reference to WG is teed to boost line from intake left side which also has a second tee to boost gauge.

My magnum turbo did not come with port and fitting on compressor for boost reference!!!

Could this be the issue, WG not having enough boost pressure??

I will have to wait two weeks for the tuner to come back and mean time have to figure out the issue with boost spike.

Here is 2nd Dyno graph.

Denali08

I will tune it SD, after two weeks, using 2.5 bar map that I ordered.

Injectors duty cycle was 50%.

2ktransam

iTrader: (12)

The port on the side of the intake is the right place to hook your vacuum lines. You do not need to run a line to the turbo.

If you have a air compressor at your house you can use it to see when your wastegate is opening. I use a leak down tester and some barb fittings to test all of the vacuum stuff on my truck. Unhook the vacuum line from the intake and hook the leak tester to it. Take your wastegate off but leave the vacuum line hooked to it. Then you can add a little air pressure at a time and see when it opens the wastegate valve. That will give you an idea if you have it hooked up right and what pressure the spring is. You might have to unhook your boost controller until you get it figured out. Make sure that the vacuum line is going to the right port on the wastegate. Normally that is the one on the side closest to the valve. If you hook it to the wrong one it won't open at all.