Denali08

Ok. All going very well now.

Oil cooler was fitted infront of the IC with 1 cm space in between the two for air circulation.

The cold pipes are tucked up very well. Nothing low.

I will post pics.

Rick, are you now providing water cooling fittings for the T76 BB turbo? Mine did not come with the fittings and I had to run to couple of places to find proper size fittings that will bolt to the turbo. I brough the fittings and left it to the shop imagination to figure out how to connect the hoses for in/out for water cooling of the turbo.

Stay tuned for pics.

Thanks for the support.

Denali08

once water cooling connections are done, will fire it up to check for leaks then off to the exhaust shop for WG flange adjustment and connection of DP to the 3" muffler/tail pipe.

Rick, should I relocate the WG mounting flange or just cut it and rotate it downward little to clear the trans oil pan then re-weld it?

I noticed that my corss over pipe sits further backward and lower compared to pics that I've seen on the forums. So, no matter what cutting I do to shorten the WG mounting flange, it will not clear the trans oil pan beacuse it's so close to it.

Denali08

See pics of the WG flange issue.

Last pic is for installed WG that I was referring to. See how the cross over pipe is far from the oil pan. It is tucked higher and closer to the bellhousing of the trans.

Denali08

New update.

Installed water fittings. I used two 90 deg swivel joint threaded to the turbo water ports with hose barb on other end, first pic.

Routed the the water lines going to the heater to the turbo water inlet then back to the return water line because I had canceled the water heater and looped the water line back. Can be seen in 2nd pic.

Installed wideband, boost and fuel pressure gauge in the A-pillar triple gauges pod.

Fuel pressure electric sensor needs adapter to connect it to fuel port on the fuel rail. Left it at machine shop to fabricate the adapter (female/female nipple). Will get it on Sunday cause they're busy with other orders.

Fired it up and checked for leaks. No leaks found. It's ready to go Saturday to the exhaust shop.

Denali08

I have a question about the need to put a check valve on the brake vacuum line. My brake booster has an electric assist vacuum, so, do I still need to put a check valve in the line or the vacuum assist motor has internal check valve? See the electric vacuum assist motor in this pics next to the brake booster.

Denali08

Here is a picture showing how the IC and oil cooler look from behind the front grill.

Also some pics showing the final product of cold pipes from underneath the truck.

I will re-install the air deflector with new clips once I get it out of the shop.

darnie

iTrader: (1)

how far down do your pipes hang? jw im trying to look for something that wont hang lower than my stock ones. and also dont want anything hanging under the bumper up front?

Denali08

With air deflector (air dam) removed you can slightly see the bottom portion of the pipes. So, it is slightly lower that the two chassis beam frames that support the bumper.

But if I do it again, I would swap from 34" to 28" radiator and run the cold pipes between the radiator sides and the head lights. This will be the optimum setup for clearance from ground.

darnie

iTrader: (1)

can you order that from them instead of the 34" one? would you think you'd notice any diff in temps?

Denali08

I am talking about the truck water radiator. It's not part of the kit.

Depends on what you already have in your truck. You can measure the width of your radiator.

My truck came stock with 28" radiator. I swapped to 34" after having a radiator damage. And I noticed a difference in temp. It became lower with the wider 34" radiator. Later I replaced the stock clutch fan with 05+ e-fans. Those will required 34" radiator anyway to fit.

So, it depends on where you live and what type e-fans you use.