I was trying to keep from doing this but I kept messaging different guys and it is getting old! If anyone can take a few minutes and give me some suggestions I would appreciate it.


I am looking to build a DD out of a KB Racing Stage I kit. I might buy a I/C at the time of purchase but if not I definitely will later on. The plan is to install everything on the engine then install it. If everything operates smoothly then I will purchase the KB kit.

I am working with a 02 RCLB C1500.

Engine
I have a '04 LQ4 pulled out from a 2500.

I am thinking about replacing lifters, timing chain & gears, oil pump, head bolts (install studs), rod bolts??, cam, push rods & springs.

Valve train
Ideally I'd like to have Pat G spec me a cam but if it is not in the budget I will just buy a LS6 cam. Smart idea? What timing chain & gears are you 500rwhp guys running, LS2? How do you pick out valve springs for a F/I engine? Does it differ compared to a N/A motor or just go by cam lift?

Trans/Stall
I have a older 4L80E I am either going to rebuild it or buy a newer core to rebuild.
I have a multi disk 9.5" PI that I plan on getting restalled at 3,000-3,200. Sound ideal? Will i have any worries with it being a 9.5"?

Rear end
I plan on buying a true trac. What gear ratio are you guys running with similar set ups? I do not know what gears are in it now the truck is in another town.



I appreciate help!

Jeremy

 

ouch. nothing?

 

I am guessing you are getting somewhat of a cold shoulder because you are tring to beat a dead horse. All the things you seem to know are in line. My advice would be to get a fuel pump, 60 lb injectors, and a KBracing kit on a bone stock 6.0 with some good cam springs before you swap it in. Then add a cam as $$ allows. I intercooled my turbo kit with ebay parts for 200 bucks. Good luck!

 

That's exactly why I was trying to avoid starting this thread!



My main concern is if I should do ARP head studs and rod bolts for this set up. I know it is added insurance.

 

That really depends on how much money you want to put in it. I am running stock head/rod bolts. But then again i am only 9-10psi.

 

I'll put the extra money into it if it is needed. I just did not want to be throwing money everywhere if stock stuff is enough.

 

Well first off, you gotta ask yourself, "am i really just gonna put around town in this thing or am i gonna get a wild hair up my *** and go beat the hell out of it at the track?"
Compare it to building a house, you know you want the best stuff over you r head to weather out the storms. so if you can fork it out and spend it, go ahead and spend it and upgrade while its out and be woory free when its time to put the hammer down. just my .02 I'm no FI guy

 

it says southeasttexas. where?

 

if you are not planning to push it past 10 psi I would not mess with any arp hardware. from my experience, the weak point on boost is the tight ring gaps on the stock pistons causing the top ring land to fail. Im rebuilding a 6.0 now that it happened to, and its the 4th or 5th motor Ive personally had happen to. when you build it, build it right, good pistons and rods... head studs, and then your set for what you want to throw at it. I hesitate to say budget and boost in the same sentence, uless its something like... you have a huge budget and want to go boost...lol

anyway, build your turbo kit and fuel system right first, and just keep in your mind that the motor will need to be built either when money allows or when it fails. and enjoy the boost... its addicting.... good luck

 

You are right. I should just install new rod bolts and head studs to not have to worry (as much).

Beaumont area. You?

I do not plan on pushing it past 10 psi but you know how that goes. I am sure i am going to want more. I was planning on buying rods and pistons after I get the truck running good just to prepare for a rebuild.