Turbo Guys, help a brother out.
02-02-2011 | 11:50 AM
#21
ive had the same questions about F/I im doin an sts rear mount turbo kit with a mp70 .68 ar I have a set of #862 mildly ported heads milled 35 thousands running stock head and rod bolts. Cam is a custom spec 221/228 530 lift 117.5 lsa using ls6 yellow springs. Im wondering how much boost will be safe on my 03 4.8 I will be sprayin meth and im thinkin about some nitrous as well
02-03-2011 | 04:20 AM
#22
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Im running the same thing as your wanting. no rod bolts, heads are studded, dual valve springs, cam and 12lbs with e85. Its all in the tune and like stated before pistons on the lq4 will be the first thing to fail. I would ic it since your in Texas it gets hot here, and ic's are cheap on ebay.
02-05-2011 | 01:30 AM
#23
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You need to look at lift, how aggressive the cam lobes are, and how high you plan to spin it. Guys always look at lift limitations of springs, but often forget that aggressive cam lobes and higher RPM's require more seat pressure to keep the valves from bouncing off of the seats. If going with the LS6 cam, I'd run the yellow LS6 springs, which have 90# of closed seat pressure. If you go with a TR or TSP cam (TSP uses Comp XER lobes), I'd go with either PAC 1218 or 1518 springs...or duals if you go real crazy with the cam, but I don't believe that turbo apps require crazy cams (although I could be wrong, I'm not an FI guy by any means). BTW, the PAC 1218's have 130# of closed seat pressure, and Crane duals have something like 160# IIRC (not 100% sure on the Cranes).
I'm curious about what kind of timing chain recommendations you get, surprised that nobody has offered their .02 on that one yet. I'd think that the LS2 chain would be adequate, but I'm just guessing.
One piece of advice, don't cut corners as it will always cost you more in the long run
I'm curious about what kind of timing chain recommendations you get, surprised that nobody has offered their .02 on that one yet. I'd think that the LS2 chain would be adequate, but I'm just guessing.
One piece of advice, don't cut corners as it will always cost you more in the long run
02-05-2011 | 06:16 PM
#24
Jeremy,
I bought a turbo kit from Full-Race... wound up scrapping the charge ducting and building it myself. It really isn't hard to do. Plus I did it on the truck as I drove it. I started out by buying an ebay intercooler and installed it. Then I worked on the charge ducting... all of this before I installed the hot side. Its nice to fit everything the way you like, weld it up, then take it back off and send it for coat (if you like)... never having your truck to stay down. I bought a spare pan off of ebay, figured where I wanted my drain, and had it welded up. Another weekend I installed the modifed pan and put a cap on the drain entrance to the pan. Another weekend I changed the valve springs (Comp 918) and pushrods (Comp Magnum) on my stock 5.3L. Once I had all the charge ducting back from coating I installed it a final time along with the hot side and turbo. I then had the truck flat bedded to a trusted exhaust shop and had them build the cross over and down pipe adaptor to a stock located Corsa Sport cat back. That morning I installed 42lb injectors and already had a 255 pump in the tank from a Magnuson setup earlier. I had a basic tune installed to limp the truck home after the exhaust work. Next day I had an appointment with my tuner...
Bottom line is I built my kit in sections and installed things that would not keep the truck down come Monday morning. When it came down to installing the hot parts there wasn't much left to do. I can afford a rental car for a few days but would rather not unless in a pinch.
If you like doing things yourself, taking your time and planning, the install should be relatively easy and will not affect your trucks DD status that much. I'm going on a couple years now... with really no issues. If I had everything to do over again I would run teflon lines for everything. I run a water cooled turbo and the AN type fittings and hose (hose is the problem) at the turbo just would not hold up to the heat more than 10 months to a year. I am confident the teflon replacement setup will be trouble free going forward. My turbo oil supply is already -3 Earls off the shelf teflon hose (6ft). My drain is still -12 AN hose. It is up next for upgrade to teflon.
I removed my PCV... and run a vent hosed to a catch can down by the frame. I recommend making a decision on this before you send the truck to the tuner as switching from PCV to a vented crank case will indeed change your tune. Plan right and pay once.
If you want to take a look at my setup during install you can check it out here:
http://s190.photobucket.com/albums/z...all/?start=all
I had a thread of the install as well but am too lazy to link it for you
Good Luck
I bought a turbo kit from Full-Race... wound up scrapping the charge ducting and building it myself. It really isn't hard to do. Plus I did it on the truck as I drove it. I started out by buying an ebay intercooler and installed it. Then I worked on the charge ducting... all of this before I installed the hot side. Its nice to fit everything the way you like, weld it up, then take it back off and send it for coat (if you like)... never having your truck to stay down. I bought a spare pan off of ebay, figured where I wanted my drain, and had it welded up. Another weekend I installed the modifed pan and put a cap on the drain entrance to the pan. Another weekend I changed the valve springs (Comp 918) and pushrods (Comp Magnum) on my stock 5.3L. Once I had all the charge ducting back from coating I installed it a final time along with the hot side and turbo. I then had the truck flat bedded to a trusted exhaust shop and had them build the cross over and down pipe adaptor to a stock located Corsa Sport cat back. That morning I installed 42lb injectors and already had a 255 pump in the tank from a Magnuson setup earlier. I had a basic tune installed to limp the truck home after the exhaust work. Next day I had an appointment with my tuner...
Bottom line is I built my kit in sections and installed things that would not keep the truck down come Monday morning. When it came down to installing the hot parts there wasn't much left to do. I can afford a rental car for a few days but would rather not unless in a pinch.
If you like doing things yourself, taking your time and planning, the install should be relatively easy and will not affect your trucks DD status that much. I'm going on a couple years now... with really no issues. If I had everything to do over again I would run teflon lines for everything. I run a water cooled turbo and the AN type fittings and hose (hose is the problem) at the turbo just would not hold up to the heat more than 10 months to a year. I am confident the teflon replacement setup will be trouble free going forward. My turbo oil supply is already -3 Earls off the shelf teflon hose (6ft). My drain is still -12 AN hose. It is up next for upgrade to teflon.
I removed my PCV... and run a vent hosed to a catch can down by the frame. I recommend making a decision on this before you send the truck to the tuner as switching from PCV to a vented crank case will indeed change your tune. Plan right and pay once.
If you want to take a look at my setup during install you can check it out here:
http://s190.photobucket.com/albums/z...all/?start=all
I had a thread of the install as well but am too lazy to link it for you
Good Luck
Last edited by Bill Reid; 02-05-2011 at 06:21 PM.
02-05-2011 | 07:24 PM
#25
Everything really depends on how much you want to spend, and how much power you want to make.
If I were you, I would install ARP rod bolts as the factory rod bolts are known to be one of the weak points of the rotating assembly. While you have the pan off, have a -10 fitting welded into your pan near the top for your turbo drain. Install an LS2 Timing set, yank sells them new in the for sale forum. A custom spec'd cam would be best, but you can make big turbo power on an LS6 cam and springs too. I would go with the appropriate Patriot springs if you spec a cam, I have heard good things about the Pac 1218 and 1518's also. Run some hardened pushrods regardless. This is all I would do to the long block in preparation for boost. I wouldn't worry about the oil pump, lifters, or studs, save those for the forged 370 that will come when this one lets go. With these parts, an MP76 and a very good tune, you will probably be making around 600whp at 10lbs.
I would run an intercooler regardless no matter what. If you add one later, it will change your tune. Use the money you had planned for the lifters and pump for it. Gears depend on your driving habits and what your gonna use the truck for.
If I were you, I would install ARP rod bolts as the factory rod bolts are known to be one of the weak points of the rotating assembly. While you have the pan off, have a -10 fitting welded into your pan near the top for your turbo drain. Install an LS2 Timing set, yank sells them new in the for sale forum. A custom spec'd cam would be best, but you can make big turbo power on an LS6 cam and springs too. I would go with the appropriate Patriot springs if you spec a cam, I have heard good things about the Pac 1218 and 1518's also. Run some hardened pushrods regardless. This is all I would do to the long block in preparation for boost. I wouldn't worry about the oil pump, lifters, or studs, save those for the forged 370 that will come when this one lets go. With these parts, an MP76 and a very good tune, you will probably be making around 600whp at 10lbs.
I would run an intercooler regardless no matter what. If you add one later, it will change your tune. Use the money you had planned for the lifters and pump for it. Gears depend on your driving habits and what your gonna use the truck for.
02-06-2011 | 03:31 AM
#26
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From: Southeast Texas
thanks for both of your suggestions.
Bill i can not weld. i would love to fab up my own stuff. maybe one day lol.
02 how many lbs were you pushing for your numbers in your sig?
Bill i can not weld. i would love to fab up my own stuff. maybe one day lol.
02 how many lbs were you pushing for your numbers in your sig?
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