Turbo oil drain discussion?
#1
Turbo oil drain discussion?
Ok been thinking about this oil drain with hi front mount turbos. Above the oil line or below.
I have ran oil returns into valve covers and the oil pan both worked well but the valve cover one on step down hill would smoke, becuase I lost all down hill flow from the turbo to the valve cover.
Thought about dumping the oil back into the dip stick hole. ANYONE try that one yet.
IF liquid finds a constent level why would the oil back up into the line all the way to the turbo if your fitting was below the oil line. I have been told the oil is full of air bubbles, but I have never seen this, even let the oil drain one time into a bucket at high rpm for about a quarts worth no bubble to speak of, flow pretty much the same at low and hi rpms.
anyone have issues below and moved the fitting hire and the problem went away.?This is just a discussion.
I have ran oil returns into valve covers and the oil pan both worked well but the valve cover one on step down hill would smoke, becuase I lost all down hill flow from the turbo to the valve cover.
Thought about dumping the oil back into the dip stick hole. ANYONE try that one yet.
IF liquid finds a constent level why would the oil back up into the line all the way to the turbo if your fitting was below the oil line. I have been told the oil is full of air bubbles, but I have never seen this, even let the oil drain one time into a bucket at high rpm for about a quarts worth no bubble to speak of, flow pretty much the same at low and hi rpms.
anyone have issues below and moved the fitting hire and the problem went away.?This is just a discussion.
#3
TECH Regular
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Indy, IN
Posts: 422
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have mine all the way at the top of the pan also. I never got a confirmation but i thought the oil would back up so i welded my bung at the top to be safe. What size return line are we talking? Ive got a -10 and never had any problems
#4
I am actually going to attempt this with a kit that I have in the works. I was going to take a stock dip stick and see if I can weld a "Y" towards the base of it and send my oil into there. I figure I will probably have to use a restrictor in the turbo oil inlet to make it work or maybe even pull the dipstick out completely and put some sort of vented cap over the end of it and keep the dipstick behind the seat or something. Either way, It would be easier than tapping the pan. I did not want to brag about it until I had tried it myself but it looks like the cat is out of the bag now....
#5
Moderator
iTrader: (14)
Here's mine. I went with -12... overkill I know but I don't ever want a drain problem. FWIW, the ID on the drain of a 60-1 is 3/4"... so is -12 line. My goal was not to step the drain down. I think general consensus is a -10 drain. I also welded my drain onto the pan at an angle to appeared to have the least amount of angle for the oil to overcome while still having enough slope to drain. I think one could easily drill and tap a hole where I have mine and accomplish nearly the same thing. My vote is for a drain above the oil level. I fought this problem big time on TTi twin turbo gravity fed drains on C5's... both with drain slope and oil level. The latest trick for the C5 guys was to go with a C6 pan which is a bit deeper. IMO, I think (never tried it) the dip stick idea would choke an oil drain... but would gladly congratulate someone if they proved me wrong
Bill
Bill
#6
Hi seems to be where we all put them, but just think if you could use the drain plug to get oil back into the pan.
We use an 8 in the kits and have never had any problems.
On the dip stick one with our kit would have plenty of slope but to many other projects to get finished first. LOL
Rick
We use an 8 in the kits and have never had any problems.
On the dip stick one with our kit would have plenty of slope but to many other projects to get finished first. LOL
Rick
#7
High on diesel fumes
iTrader: (70)
I put mine below oil level (out of laziness, not any other specific reason) and I have a feeling that it may have cause oil to back up and push past the seals in the turbo. I have not pulled the pipes off the turbo yet to check and see, but I have a new oil pan on the way and I am going to re-install the drain above the oil level on this one.
Bill, do you do your own aluminum welding? Of not, where did you have that done? I want to have this one welded instead of just drilling and tapping like my current one.
Bill, do you do your own aluminum welding? Of not, where did you have that done? I want to have this one welded instead of just drilling and tapping like my current one.
Trending Topics
#8
Performance Trucks Sponsor
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: san antonio, tx
Posts: 1,439
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
IMO, here is the easiest place to put the return line. Not every one has a right angle drill and to fit a convential drill in that area is a pita, plus you need a short drill bit.
Specifically for the trick kit, I replace the fitting from the turbo with a straigth piece, then the hose comes down and over right into the front of the oil pan.
The brass fitting has about a 1/2 hole and we use high pressure, high temp, oil resistant hose.
I've drilled many holes with the pan on and off. As long as you're careful and use a lot of grease, no metal will get in the oil pan.
Hope this helps,
allen
Specifically for the trick kit, I replace the fitting from the turbo with a straigth piece, then the hose comes down and over right into the front of the oil pan.
The brass fitting has about a 1/2 hole and we use high pressure, high temp, oil resistant hose.
I've drilled many holes with the pan on and off. As long as you're careful and use a lot of grease, no metal will get in the oil pan.
Hope this helps,
allen
#10
Resident Retard
iTrader: (31)
I have a question I would like to throw out there.
I was wondering if boost/compression was pushing past the rings and pressurizing the bottom end of the motor, would that cause this drain line not to work properly? I am pretty sure the stock PVC system can handle a small amount of blowby but the extra amount created by FI might overwhelm the system..... Just a thought
I was wondering if boost/compression was pushing past the rings and pressurizing the bottom end of the motor, would that cause this drain line not to work properly? I am pretty sure the stock PVC system can handle a small amount of blowby but the extra amount created by FI might overwhelm the system..... Just a thought