Twin turbo for a 6.0 swapped s10 please advise
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Twin turbo for a 6.0 swapped s10 please advise
I have a 2001 S-10 that I have done a 6.0 swap on and I now need to rebuild it due to a recent accident. It is a 2000 LQ4 6.0 with the cast iron heads. It still has the truck intake.
I would like to get around 550 -600 crank hp with a 6200-6400 rpm red line
I have 315-35 -17 tires on the rear and plan on running a 3.55 or 3.27 ratio in my 8.8 ford rear end.
It already has a 4L80E transmission so I am not worried about that.
I would also like to keep it semi-daily drivable
My questions are-
What turbos would be best for what I want to do? So far a GT3582R seems to be a good choice for the turbos if I am figuring it out correctly but I would like some insight.
What stall would be best for my transmission and gear selection?
I also have the option to change to 243 heads (from a 2005 GTO).
My truck has 873 cast iron heads. Would the cast iron head be better for boost or should I switch heads? I think I should but I want an opinion of someone more experienced.
When running twins do you divide your air consumption between the two equally or do you need to figure for more than half for each turbo.
I am not familiar with turbos yet, but I have been doing a lot of reading because I want to do it right the first time.
I also tow with this truck so I don’t want to lose too much on the bottom end
If any more info is needed just ask.
Thanks
Mike
I would like to get around 550 -600 crank hp with a 6200-6400 rpm red line
I have 315-35 -17 tires on the rear and plan on running a 3.55 or 3.27 ratio in my 8.8 ford rear end.
It already has a 4L80E transmission so I am not worried about that.
I would also like to keep it semi-daily drivable
My questions are-
What turbos would be best for what I want to do? So far a GT3582R seems to be a good choice for the turbos if I am figuring it out correctly but I would like some insight.
What stall would be best for my transmission and gear selection?
I also have the option to change to 243 heads (from a 2005 GTO).
My truck has 873 cast iron heads. Would the cast iron head be better for boost or should I switch heads? I think I should but I want an opinion of someone more experienced.
When running twins do you divide your air consumption between the two equally or do you need to figure for more than half for each turbo.
I am not familiar with turbos yet, but I have been doing a lot of reading because I want to do it right the first time.
I also tow with this truck so I don’t want to lose too much on the bottom end
If any more info is needed just ask.
Thanks
Mike
#2
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I wouldn't go with the 243 heads. They will bump your compression up. Probably the best FI heads to use would be the aluminum LQ4 heads, casting 317. Are you rebuilding the entire engine or just swapping heads and other stuff?
As long as you keep a reasonably small cam your low end torque won't suffer. What do you have in there now? Stock would be decent, or an 02+ LS6 cam would be a great cheap turbo cam.
As long as you keep a reasonably small cam your low end torque won't suffer. What do you have in there now? Stock would be decent, or an 02+ LS6 cam would be a great cheap turbo cam.
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The reason I want twins is I have a thing for balance and I also always want more so if I just do twins in the first place it will better feed my need for more power later. Fabrication is not a problem for me I built all my motor mounts and transmission cross member along with the headers that are on it now.
I am also a horse power addict
Right now the engine is completely stock but I plan on upgrading the pistons and rod bolts and using head studs when the engine is reassembled
I got the 243 heads already when I was planning on doing a n/a power increase. If I changed the pistons would the 243's be a better head or should I work something out and trade for some 317's
Currently I am most worried about the proper engine combination and turbo size to use. Forced induction is a new venture for me and I want to make sure I do it right.
I am also a horse power addict
Right now the engine is completely stock but I plan on upgrading the pistons and rod bolts and using head studs when the engine is reassembled
I got the 243 heads already when I was planning on doing a n/a power increase. If I changed the pistons would the 243's be a better head or should I work something out and trade for some 317's
Currently I am most worried about the proper engine combination and turbo size to use. Forced induction is a new venture for me and I want to make sure I do it right.
#6
High on diesel fumes
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The 317's and 243's flow almost exactly the same. The 317's have a bigger combustion chamber and will allow you a much wider selection of pistons. When I put parts together for my first 408 I used 243 heads and I had to go with a huge piston dish (22 or 26cc, can't remember) and a funky head gasket thickness (.04") to get the compression where I wanted it to be. Do yourself a favor and use the 317 heads....they will be much better for a FI engine.
#7
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If you can do the fab yourself, and have the time, twins are all that and a bag of chips. It's mostly bling though, until you get to the high HP realms. You can do just as well with most street kits with a single that is sized right.
I do understand the need for balance, however. **** I even have 2 oil filters lol.
Twin 35s would be pretty stout on 6L cubes and are likely pretty expensive. Hella turbos though. I believe twin 35s would put you roughly in the 1200 crank hp range (very similar to what I run except for the back half). You could likely get away with twin 60-1s which would be low impact on the wallet.
It also depends how much lag you are willing to put up with. 60-1s will spool the night before you get on it
I do understand the need for balance, however. **** I even have 2 oil filters lol.
Twin 35s would be pretty stout on 6L cubes and are likely pretty expensive. Hella turbos though. I believe twin 35s would put you roughly in the 1200 crank hp range (very similar to what I run except for the back half). You could likely get away with twin 60-1s which would be low impact on the wallet.
It also depends how much lag you are willing to put up with. 60-1s will spool the night before you get on it
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