Wastegate pumbing
#1
Wastegate plumbing
2 questions here...
1) Where do you guys recommend tapping into for a pressure only source for the wastegate? My initial guess was as close to the manifold as possible so the WG sees the same pressure as the engine. But I've heard that the compressor housing is best to reduce the delay between boost pressure and wastegate movement. I will be using an eBoost Street boost controller. Turbosmart recommends using a pressure only source for the boost controller/wastegate. They said using a pressure/vacuum source is much less accurate.
2) Do you recommend a one or two port hookup method for the wastegate? Whats the advantage of each? One port seems most common. Here's a couple pics of the two methods from the manual.
One-port:
Two-port:
Thanks!
1) Where do you guys recommend tapping into for a pressure only source for the wastegate? My initial guess was as close to the manifold as possible so the WG sees the same pressure as the engine. But I've heard that the compressor housing is best to reduce the delay between boost pressure and wastegate movement. I will be using an eBoost Street boost controller. Turbosmart recommends using a pressure only source for the boost controller/wastegate. They said using a pressure/vacuum source is much less accurate.
2) Do you recommend a one or two port hookup method for the wastegate? Whats the advantage of each? One port seems most common. Here's a couple pics of the two methods from the manual.
One-port:
Two-port:
Thanks!
Last edited by Ferocity02; 08-17-2012 at 02:11 PM.
#2
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I routed mine form the turbo housing to the wastegate. Just so it would makes less boost at the intake cause the small 44# injectors..
Ive done the two port deal with a electric boost controller when i had the STS.. it all works.
Ive done the two port deal with a electric boost controller when i had the STS.. it all works.
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At the compressor, right before the throttle blade, or anywhere behind the throttle blade (manifold) are three different places with three different results. You are controlling boost at the point you are tapping from so if you tap from the manifold you will get the pressure to build there faster but the compressor will have to spike to make that happen (more heat created). If you reference the compressor the pressure will be controlled there but it may take a moment longer for it to reach the manifold with all of the restrictions in the system.
You would have to ask yourself how important boost response and heat management are to you. I have the Synapse 50mm with the 40mm seat referenced at the compressor through a Hallman manual boost controller plumbed to port C (Larger Hallman spring installed). Someday I will try it at the manifold just for kicks, I think mine can tolerate a little extra heat.
You would have to ask yourself how important boost response and heat management are to you. I have the Synapse 50mm with the 40mm seat referenced at the compressor through a Hallman manual boost controller plumbed to port C (Larger Hallman spring installed). Someday I will try it at the manifold just for kicks, I think mine can tolerate a little extra heat.
#6
Thanks for the info, that's helpful. So since I'm using a boost controller which reads off the manifold, and if my wastegate pressure source is the compressor housing, the boost controller will still try to match the boost I ask for, not the compressor boost minus cold side pressure losses? Seems like that would be the way to go.
Turbosmart said the two-port method is for systems with a "TON" of backpressure. Do ours qualify? The two-port method looks like it's using boost and spring pressure to hold the wastegate shut, makes sense for high back pressure situations.
Turbosmart said the two-port method is for systems with a "TON" of backpressure. Do ours qualify? The two-port method looks like it's using boost and spring pressure to hold the wastegate shut, makes sense for high back pressure situations.
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#8
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Both look to give the same result.
You will end up at true spring psi. Holding valve shut tell exhaust psi opens it.
Option 1) bleeds off psi to gate tell the gate will not see any psi. from compressor.
Leaving u at only spring Psi. holding valve down tell exhaust psi Is great enough to open it.
Option 2) applies psi to the top. Port Offsetting the bottom ports psi. At one point both sides top and bottom see the same psi. Balancing the gate. Leaving you at spring psi holding gate valve closed tell exhaust psi is great enough to open it.
Option 3) not shown. Boost psi applied to top through your controller valve. Bottom port ventng. Appling psi to top helping keep the valve closed. Until exhaust psi us great enough to open the gate.
The boost being applied under normal conditions help open the valve. If the hose fell off the boost will go up. That's what the first option is really doing.
I recommend starting small and making small afjustments tell u get a feel for it.
You will end up at true spring psi. Holding valve shut tell exhaust psi opens it.
Option 1) bleeds off psi to gate tell the gate will not see any psi. from compressor.
Leaving u at only spring Psi. holding valve down tell exhaust psi Is great enough to open it.
Option 2) applies psi to the top. Port Offsetting the bottom ports psi. At one point both sides top and bottom see the same psi. Balancing the gate. Leaving you at spring psi holding gate valve closed tell exhaust psi is great enough to open it.
Option 3) not shown. Boost psi applied to top through your controller valve. Bottom port ventng. Appling psi to top helping keep the valve closed. Until exhaust psi us great enough to open the gate.
The boost being applied under normal conditions help open the valve. If the hose fell off the boost will go up. That's what the first option is really doing.
I recommend starting small and making small afjustments tell u get a feel for it.
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Also, dont put the hose on the top port and leave the bottom open and expect the boost to be the spring PSI. I had a brain fart and was checkin to see if the hose i had would fit the hose barb. Didnt think to remove it. 10# at 3000rpms kinda scared me with a 6# spring tilli thought bout what i did..... :doh:
#10
I have a gauge for that
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I have the same controller and have it hooked up with option 2 and a 8psi spring in the gate.
Your controller doesnt target a specific pressure, you specify a solenoid duty cycle and it uses that. You have no way of inputting desired pressure.
If your setup is a T4, im going to say you have a lot of backpressure, probably 2:1.
Your controller doesnt target a specific pressure, you specify a solenoid duty cycle and it uses that. You have no way of inputting desired pressure.
If your setup is a T4, im going to say you have a lot of backpressure, probably 2:1.