When getting blown, More ribs for more pleasure?
#1
When getting blown, More ribs for more pleasure?
Not those kind of ribs and not that kind of blown you pervs...
I’m trying to decide if I should drop $1k for an 8 rib setup. Here is why I ask:
I’ve read/been told that my 408cid with a compression ratio(CR) of 10.4:1 is going to make more boost than say an 8.5:1 CR 408cid with the same size blower pulley. I’ve also been told that it’s going to be hard to add timing after say 10psi due to the high CR. I’m not so much looking for a total rwhp goal but I would like to get the most out of the setup.
I have purchased a TVS2300 to feed the engine. I was hoping for 12-15psi. I’m not sure if a 6 rib will make it that high w/o slip and even if it were possible would I be able to run that much boost on a higher CR engine?
I do have a meth kit and would possibly install it to add octane/cooling but I don’t want to tune for it. I want it more as a safety back-up.
So how much timing/boost can I get into this engine without meth and still be increasing power?
If it is possible to feed 15psi to a 10.4:1 CR 408 with the TVS2300 then I will have to go 8 rib as this blower is not a jack-shaft version.
If the engine is only going to take 10psi or so before I start seeing diminishing returns than a 6 rib setup should work. I’d like some good info before I drop a big load of cash on 8 rib pulleys.
Does my cam choice make a difference?
The cam specs for you engineer types are:
231/239 .598”/.610” 116LSA +1 advance
Static compression: 10.4:1SCR
Dynamic compression 7.50:1DCR
Thanks guys!
I’m trying to decide if I should drop $1k for an 8 rib setup. Here is why I ask:
I’ve read/been told that my 408cid with a compression ratio(CR) of 10.4:1 is going to make more boost than say an 8.5:1 CR 408cid with the same size blower pulley. I’ve also been told that it’s going to be hard to add timing after say 10psi due to the high CR. I’m not so much looking for a total rwhp goal but I would like to get the most out of the setup.
I have purchased a TVS2300 to feed the engine. I was hoping for 12-15psi. I’m not sure if a 6 rib will make it that high w/o slip and even if it were possible would I be able to run that much boost on a higher CR engine?
I do have a meth kit and would possibly install it to add octane/cooling but I don’t want to tune for it. I want it more as a safety back-up.
So how much timing/boost can I get into this engine without meth and still be increasing power?
If it is possible to feed 15psi to a 10.4:1 CR 408 with the TVS2300 then I will have to go 8 rib as this blower is not a jack-shaft version.
If the engine is only going to take 10psi or so before I start seeing diminishing returns than a 6 rib setup should work. I’d like some good info before I drop a big load of cash on 8 rib pulleys.
Does my cam choice make a difference?
The cam specs for you engineer types are:
231/239 .598”/.610” 116LSA +1 advance
Static compression: 10.4:1SCR
Dynamic compression 7.50:1DCR
Thanks guys!
#3
8 Second Truck Club
iTrader: (32)
Compression ratio shouldn't have anything to do with boost in the intake.
My guess is that your gonna have more than $1k in an 8-rib setup unless you buy used ****.
Your probably gonna need the 8-rib and the meth will probably save your motor.
Hows that for a response.
My guess is that your gonna have more than $1k in an 8-rib setup unless you buy used ****.
Your probably gonna need the 8-rib and the meth will probably save your motor.
Hows that for a response.
#4
I've been digging around on other forums and have run across a few GTOs/Camaros at 10.6:1 to 11:1 pushing about 10lbs and making mid 600's w/out meth. I think what people were trying to tell me is the higher CR engine will make more power per lb of boost, which makes more sense.
I just lowered my comp from stock to about 9.0:1 and it sucks. The boost may come on early with a PD blower but its relative to your throttle position... ...Build it to atleast 10:1. With highwer compression you can get the same reults with less boost. Im building a forged motor now and its going to be 11:1 for my TVS 1900.
#5
Innovators West dampeners utilize an aluminum case to cut down on the total weight as well as the flywheel weight of the dampener. The dampener is degreed a full 360 degrees and degreed every 2 degrees from 30 to 50 degrees. Standard hub is steel, optional hub is aluminum. Innovators West manufactures transducer brackets for most of their crank dampeners.
Application: 1999-2008 Full Size Truck
Diameter: 10% Overdriven
Ribs: 8 rib
Notes: Conversion Kits Include, Crankshaft Dampner, Power Steering Pulley, Alternator Pulley, Smooth Idler Pulley, Ribbed Tensioner Pulley
*Any additional aftermarket pulleys must be sourced from the manufacturer of those pulleys
Price:
$999.95 Includes Shipping
Brand:
Innovators West
Funny thing is during all my research tonight, I found a 10% OD Innovators West Balancer on eBay for $400. Used 1000 miles. Went ahead and snatched that up lmao...So I guess I'm gonna go 8 rib no matter what but I'd still like to hear peoples inputs on timing vs boost level on the high CR engine.
Last edited by 1SlowHoe; 02-05-2011 at 04:49 AM.
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#8
Depending on the head gasket compressed thickness I'm anywhere from 10.2:1 to 10.4:1. The compressed thickness of OEM LS9 gaskets seems to be highly disputed between .051 to .060
The stroke, bore, pistons are set, the heads are set, so all I can play with is the head gasket.
Atomic was at 11:1 on his 410 and TVS1900. I think he was running about 8psi. He said it was pretty sweet. No meth that I remember.
The stroke, bore, pistons are set, the heads are set, so all I can play with is the head gasket.
Atomic was at 11:1 on his 410 and TVS1900. I think he was running about 8psi. He said it was pretty sweet. No meth that I remember.
#9
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iTrader: (12)
Timing is a bandaid for in-efieciency. Each engine is different. Even if built with the same parts, and the same shop.
You will not know what your engine can do until you start to walk up the power.
you can go ahead and install your 8rib balancer but run your 6rib driven pulleys. If it slips then start swapping pulleys.
We are looking at a 8 or 10rib set up.
You will not know what your engine can do until you start to walk up the power.
you can go ahead and install your 8rib balancer but run your 6rib driven pulleys. If it slips then start swapping pulleys.
We are looking at a 8 or 10rib set up.
#10
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Timing is a bandaid for in-efieciency. Each engine is different. Even if built with the same parts, and the same shop.
You will not know what your engine can do until you start to walk up the power.
you can go ahead and install your 8rib balancer but run your 6rib driven pulleys. If it slips then start swapping pulleys.
We are looking at a 8 or 10rib set up.
You will not know what your engine can do until you start to walk up the power.
you can go ahead and install your 8rib balancer but run your 6rib driven pulleys. If it slips then start swapping pulleys.
We are looking at a 8 or 10rib set up.
That's what I'm doing. Also, might want to look into getting the crank, and balancer cut for a keyway while everything's apart anyway. No more worries about pinning.