The Junk Yard where i bought my motor from called me and said they had some blower and they thought that i may be interested, so i ended up getting a Used Whipple for $500 off a running truck, the truck was there because it had been rolled.

My questions are what should i look at getting when i install this?
The engine is a 2004 5.3L in a 74 k-5 Blazer. I already have a copy of HP tuners to do my tuning with. I know that i am not going to use the whipple electronics i am going to add larger injectors which size should i look into getting?

IS my retunless fuel system going to handle the extra power, i am using a corvette fuel filter/regulator and a high pressure GM fuel pump

What would a good cam be to throw in while i am doing the swap?

What is the smallest pulley that you can run on this blower?


Thanks

 

I have a similar set up. Got a used blower, got rid of the elctronics and did not use the whipple injectors.
If you bypass the whipple junk box, you need 2 things:
a: More fuel. I went with marine injectors and a boostapump.
b: Control of the Whipple bypass valve: In my case, it defaults to open and would only make 2 pounds at wot. You can bypass this by undoing a vacuum line, or run a 12 volt line to the receiver on the harness. (This way I have control of the valve based on a switch in the truck, no power = 2 pounds, power = 6-7)
You will need a 6 rib belt, about 110 or 111 inches.
Make sure you re route your valve cover PCV set up. (Remember intake will see boost - I found this out by blowing out some valve cover gaskets)
Cam I went with was a GT2-3. Great DD cam and made for boost.
I put on the biggest pulley I have. If you do your install and are not happy, let me know. I have 3 other pulleys if you are interested in more power.

 

BTW, change the oil in the unit to be safe. I believe you need 5W50.

 

That's just dumb. Do it right or not at all.

 

How would you do it?

 

I think that S/C Z71 misunderstood your saying to disconnect the vacuum line to mean that you were intending to disable the function of the bypass, when what you were really trying to explain was how to make the bypass functional without the Whipple electronics. Am I correct, both of you?

 

The bypass valve is normally closed. Vacuum opens it. Disconnecting the vacuum line completely will keep the valve closed. To get it working without electrical intervention connect the vacuum hose to a port on the inlet side of the supercharger after the throttle body. The electronic solenoid is Whipple's boost protection to back off on boost if the Whippletronics detect knock. No matter how you decide to control the bypass valve, it does need to stay functional - it prevents blower surge at idle and is required.

Here's an example, little bit hard to see:

 

Correct, on my set up, without 12 volts, the unit will only make 2 pounds of boost, regardless of pulley size. I did not want to just unplug the vaccum, so I ran a 12 volt signal to it via a cab mounted switch. I can only assume that the whipple electronics - which I don't use - would remove power when it detected a lean condition or knock.

 

James: Thanks for the info, and I do not doubt you. But in my case, it seems that without power, the valve defaults to open, thus limiting the boost the unit can make. I need the 12 volts to make boost - which I assume is closing the by pass.

 

I see what you're talking about now. I had to do the same thing when I ditched the whipple electronics. As James said you just need to hook the bypass valve to a vacuum source after the throttle body then you won't need the 12v switch.