Will Turbo'd Gibbs ever run again?
#33
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You may notice the injector holes are not all centered. I used fuel rails for regular LS1 style intake since that is what I had. I eyeballed the spacing and it looked good. Well, I centered up on one end bung and started cutting to the spacing of the rails and when I got to the last 2 you could really notice a difference. They are offset in the port slightly but I don't think it will effect fuel distribution. If I zeroed directly in the center the offset would have been spread out over all the holes and wouldn't have been very noticable. So if you do this to an L92 intake you will need to make your own fuel rails. Also I cut the factory injector rail bosses off since I wasn't going to use them.
Everything is in and together as far as the engine goes. I had a little trouble with hood clearence and had to go a different route. I will get pics of that when it is "acceptable". It is kind of just thrown together right now. I have to order some different parts and may just scrap the whole adapter plate and order a $200 elbow.
![Bang Head](https://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
I'm just wating on a clutch peddle pumper to bleed it and we will be making some noise....maybe.
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#34
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She runs!
Just completed the 20 min warm up and no leaks (accept for the solid copper head gaskets which appear to stopped leaking after warm up as they should).
Only casualty is a plug wire which must have poped off the plug and got against the turbo manifold. Can you say spark plug wire flamboay (or however you spell it)? I noticed a yellow flicker under the hood and shut her down.
![The Judge](https://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_judge.gif)
Just completed the 20 min warm up and no leaks (accept for the solid copper head gaskets which appear to stopped leaking after warm up as they should).
Only casualty is a plug wire which must have poped off the plug and got against the turbo manifold. Can you say spark plug wire flamboay (or however you spell it)? I noticed a yellow flicker under the hood and shut her down.
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Thanks guys. I just had to drive home with no clutch. The master cyl broke out of the firewall. The clutch master and the piece that it connects to is plastic
. What a piece of **** design. It must be new design. I made a plate that goes around it and bolts into the steel firewall to hold it in.
typically yes, but that would require taking off all the exhaust and turbo crap + the rockers and that isn't going to happen. I torqued them uppon initial assembly and let it sit for 24 hrs and torqued them again. I got a little more out of them after they set but not like I usually do with a compressable multilayer gasket. If they don't hold i'll just put another can of alumaseal in there
I don't have any pics of my mill. It is too dirty now. I don't clean up until after a project is complete and only sometimes then.
It is a full size bridgport manual mill with digital readouts and variable speed.
Well, it is time for some driving and tuning
![Barf](https://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_barf.gif)
Originally Posted by Keith
Do you need to re-torque the heads once the gaskets have a heat cycle in them?
![The Jester](https://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
I don't have any pics of my mill. It is too dirty now. I don't clean up until after a project is complete and only sometimes then.
![The Jester](https://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
It is a full size bridgport manual mill with digital readouts and variable speed.
Well, it is time for some driving and tuning
![Driving](https://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_driving3.gif)