05 RST w/T56 swap clutch wont fully disengage.
#11
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Is the end of the 4.8 crank different than the LS1 5.7 crank? I dont see why when using a LS1 clutch assembly and a LS1 T-56 you would need to shim it. The mating surface on the 4.8L iron block and ls1 aluminum block are the same. So unless the 4.8 crank is different I dont see any reason to need to shim it.
I bled the clutch again today a bunch more times and its better but still not close to right.
I bled the clutch again today a bunch more times and its better but still not close to right.
Last edited by TurboGibbs; 04-20-2010 at 07:29 AM.
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i agree with gibbs. when i did my setup i had a shitton of problems with mine. i went through 4 slaves i think.
what i ended up doing was dropping the trans and i unbolted the slave, clamped it in the fully compressed position and then with my bro standing on the clutch pedal i bled it and have never had an issue since.
one thing i did notice going through all those slaves was that if you had one that wasnt releasing all the way that sometimes it could spin the upper part where the bearing snaps on and then it would cause the seal to leak. so keep an eye out for that.
what i ended up doing was dropping the trans and i unbolted the slave, clamped it in the fully compressed position and then with my bro standing on the clutch pedal i bled it and have never had an issue since.
one thing i did notice going through all those slaves was that if you had one that wasnt releasing all the way that sometimes it could spin the upper part where the bearing snaps on and then it would cause the seal to leak. so keep an eye out for that.
#13
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Just curious are you running a 305/50/20 in the rear to give you the 32" OD. Thats what my truck has and right now along with 4.88 gears. But the gears are USA standards which are known to whine. So I had planned to switch them out. Like you said with a 32" tall tire my 4.88 arnt enough. 1900rpm @ 70mph sounds perfect to me. What 5.13 gear set did you go with and did you get any whine. Also if you were doing it again would you go with te game gear set. Finally are you running a 275/55/20 in the front to match the rear tires overall diameter or the stock 275/45/20. Thanks
i agree with gibbs. when i did my setup i had a shitton of problems with mine. i went through 4 slaves i think.
what i ended up doing was dropping the trans and i unbolted the slave, clamped it in the fully compressed position and then with my bro standing on the clutch pedal i bled it and have never had an issue since.
one thing i did notice going through all those slaves was that if you had one that wasnt releasing all the way that sometimes it could spin the upper part where the bearing snaps on and then it would cause the seal to leak. so keep an eye out for that.
what i ended up doing was dropping the trans and i unbolted the slave, clamped it in the fully compressed position and then with my bro standing on the clutch pedal i bled it and have never had an issue since.
one thing i did notice going through all those slaves was that if you had one that wasnt releasing all the way that sometimes it could spin the upper part where the bearing snaps on and then it would cause the seal to leak. so keep an eye out for that.
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TurboGibbs,
I plan to swap a 6.0L in fairly soon and I will be swapping out the current cam in the 4.8L for something a little more mild. Right now the trucks cam specs are @ .050 236 242 .580 .590 on a 112 lsa. The truck is gonna be my daily driver so its way to much cam. Your cam is around the specs I was planning to switch to. You happy with the cam and hows the driveability. Thanks
I plan to swap a 6.0L in fairly soon and I will be swapping out the current cam in the 4.8L for something a little more mild. Right now the trucks cam specs are @ .050 236 242 .580 .590 on a 112 lsa. The truck is gonna be my daily driver so its way to much cam. Your cam is around the specs I was planning to switch to. You happy with the cam and hows the driveability. Thanks
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TurboGibbs,
I plan to swap a 6.0L in fairly soon and I will be swapping out the current cam in the 4.8L for something a little more mild. Right now the trucks cam specs are @ .050 236 242 .580 .590 on a 112 lsa. The truck is gonna be my daily driver so its way to much cam. Your cam is around the specs I was planning to switch to. You happy with the cam and hows the driveability. Thanks
I plan to swap a 6.0L in fairly soon and I will be swapping out the current cam in the 4.8L for something a little more mild. Right now the trucks cam specs are @ .050 236 242 .580 .590 on a 112 lsa. The truck is gonna be my daily driver so its way to much cam. Your cam is around the specs I was planning to switch to. You happy with the cam and hows the driveability. Thanks
It is a fine line to have a manual trans with a cam and it not be jerky. But if you must have a choppy idle then you'll just have to live with the bucking off idle. If I had to do it over again, i'd keep my compression around 10.5:1 and go with a 216-220ish intake duration and a 114 lsa. Also, the XER lobes are very agressive and makes the valvetrain noisy but no big deal to me. I've been listening to it for 50k miles now. Can't hear it in the cab though.
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Talked to the previous owner again today and he confirmed the slave is brand new and it is a complete Ls1 clutch disc, pressure plate and flywheel with roughly 5k miles. Gonna try bleeding it again tomorrow. If it still wont go into gear I am going to get the remote bleeder from tick and pull the trans. Then I can check out the slave and pilot bearing and see if there is anything else causing the problem.
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Before you start bleeding do short 50 or so 1-2" short strokes. You can wiggle a lot out by doing that. It is a very small system so pumping like you would the brakes and you will aerate it. Try opening up the bleeder, then mashing the peddle. It will help keep the air from becoming entrained in the fluid from the pressure. Also, make sure you refill the master cyl after 2-3 bleeds to keep from sucking air.
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i dont have anything to prove it other than my own experiences, but on the slaves that didnt bleed properly, when the upper portion of the slave rotated (the plastic upper that the bearing mounts to) i believe it cause the seal to wear or get cut. at that point i believe the seal is letting air into the system, but that is just my thoughts on the problems i was having. once i got a new slave and bled it like i mentioned before i havent had an issue with it since.
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Before you start bleeding do short 50 or so 1-2" short strokes. You can wiggle a lot out by doing that. It is a very small system so pumping like you would the brakes and you will aerate it. Try opening up the bleeder, then mashing the peddle. It will help keep the air from becoming entrained in the fluid from the pressure. Also, make sure you refill the master cyl after 2-3 bleeds to keep from sucking air.
Also you said you are running 305/50/20's all around do you have any issues with the 32" tall tires rubbing in the front. Im not to familiar with the Gibbs trucks but are they lowered from the factory or is yours. Im just wondering if with my front end being 1.3" lower from the ground control springs if the 32" tall tires will fit up front with rubbing on hard turns. Right now the stock 275/45/20's are on the front. But I would like to do a 305/50 or 275/55 in the front to match the rear 32" profile. Thanks
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i dont have anything to prove it other than my own experiences, but on the slaves that didnt bleed properly, when the upper portion of the slave rotated (the plastic upper that the bearing mounts to) i believe it cause the seal to wear or get cut. at that point i believe the seal is letting air into the system, but that is just my thoughts on the problems i was having. once i got a new slave and bled it like i mentioned before i havent had an issue with it since.