06 sierra vortec max
10-29-2006, 11:07 PM
#13
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Just lowered my 05' VHO ECSB.
Don't use the keys! Nets poor handling.
I used Belltech 2" spindles up front.
Used McGaughy 2" shackles out back.
Also used Belltech Nitro-Active shocks at all four corners.
Drives and handles so much better than stock.
Being I used only shackles in the rear, the truck doesn't sit level. Though I still wanted a slight rake still anyways. The rear is only 1-1/4" higher than the front. It looks good to me that way. It gives me the ability to still tow or haul stuff when I need to.
The only thing that I will have to install are the 2* shims in the rear to correct the pinion angle. I have a slight vibration under take off from a standing stop. Other than that, it's vibration free at any low-high speed.
A few words of advise:
-remove the rear bump-stop bracket, trim the bump stop about 1-2 nubs, and bolt it straight to the frame without the bracket. The frame already has the holes for the bump stop to be used without the bracket.
-If only lowering using shackles, the 2* shims will be needed to correct the pinion angle.
-DO NOT overtighten the shackle bolts. It will cause the bushings to squeek. I know this because I tightened them too tight after the suspension was loaded.
-The front rotor dust shields WILL need to be trimmed for clearing the caliper brackets. It's easy to do, but don't forget to do it while the hub bearing is removed.
Other than that, the job took 4hrs with one friend and myself. That also included an alignment. Don't try and drive it without getting an alignment!!!!
If your going to do hangers and shckles in the rear, then add another 3-4hrs to the job depending on your experience level.
This way worked out great for me. No complaints here!
Good luck!
Jim
Don't use the keys! Nets poor handling.
I used Belltech 2" spindles up front.
Used McGaughy 2" shackles out back.
Also used Belltech Nitro-Active shocks at all four corners.
Drives and handles so much better than stock.
Being I used only shackles in the rear, the truck doesn't sit level. Though I still wanted a slight rake still anyways. The rear is only 1-1/4" higher than the front. It looks good to me that way. It gives me the ability to still tow or haul stuff when I need to.
The only thing that I will have to install are the 2* shims in the rear to correct the pinion angle. I have a slight vibration under take off from a standing stop. Other than that, it's vibration free at any low-high speed.
A few words of advise:
-remove the rear bump-stop bracket, trim the bump stop about 1-2 nubs, and bolt it straight to the frame without the bracket. The frame already has the holes for the bump stop to be used without the bracket.
-If only lowering using shackles, the 2* shims will be needed to correct the pinion angle.
-DO NOT overtighten the shackle bolts. It will cause the bushings to squeek. I know this because I tightened them too tight after the suspension was loaded.
-The front rotor dust shields WILL need to be trimmed for clearing the caliper brackets. It's easy to do, but don't forget to do it while the hub bearing is removed.
Other than that, the job took 4hrs with one friend and myself. That also included an alignment. Don't try and drive it without getting an alignment!!!!
If your going to do hangers and shckles in the rear, then add another 3-4hrs to the job depending on your experience level.
This way worked out great for me. No complaints here!
Good luck!
Jim
10-30-2006, 06:30 AM
#14
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Originally Posted by CHEVY6000VHO
Just lowered my 05' VHO ECSB.
Don't use the keys! Nets poor handling.
I used Belltech 2" spindles up front.
Used McGaughy 2" shackles out back.
Also used Belltech Nitro-Active shocks at all four corners.
Drives and handles so much better than stock.
Being I used only shackles in the rear, the truck doesn't sit level. Though I still wanted a slight rake still anyways. The rear is only 1-1/4" higher than the front. It looks good to me that way. It gives me the ability to still tow or haul stuff when I need to.
The only thing that I will have to install are the 2* shims in the rear to correct the pinion angle. I have a slight vibration under take off from a standing stop. Other than that, it's vibration free at any low-high speed.
A few words of advise:
-remove the rear bump-stop bracket, trim the bump stop about 1-2 nubs, and bolt it straight to the frame without the bracket. The frame already has the holes for the bump stop to be used without the bracket.
-If only lowering using shackles, the 2* shims will be needed to correct the pinion angle.
-DO NOT overtighten the shackle bolts. It will cause the bushings to squeek. I know this because I tightened them too tight after the suspension was loaded.
-The front rotor dust shields WILL need to be trimmed for clearing the caliper brackets. It's easy to do, but don't forget to do it while the hub bearing is removed.
Other than that, the job took 4hrs with one friend and myself. That also included an alignment. Don't try and drive it without getting an alignment!!!!
If your going to do hangers and shckles in the rear, then add another 3-4hrs to the job depending on your experience level.
This way worked out great for me. No complaints here!
Good luck!
Jim
Don't use the keys! Nets poor handling.
I used Belltech 2" spindles up front.
Used McGaughy 2" shackles out back.
Also used Belltech Nitro-Active shocks at all four corners.
Drives and handles so much better than stock.
Being I used only shackles in the rear, the truck doesn't sit level. Though I still wanted a slight rake still anyways. The rear is only 1-1/4" higher than the front. It looks good to me that way. It gives me the ability to still tow or haul stuff when I need to.
The only thing that I will have to install are the 2* shims in the rear to correct the pinion angle. I have a slight vibration under take off from a standing stop. Other than that, it's vibration free at any low-high speed.
A few words of advise:
-remove the rear bump-stop bracket, trim the bump stop about 1-2 nubs, and bolt it straight to the frame without the bracket. The frame already has the holes for the bump stop to be used without the bracket.
-If only lowering using shackles, the 2* shims will be needed to correct the pinion angle.
-DO NOT overtighten the shackle bolts. It will cause the bushings to squeek. I know this because I tightened them too tight after the suspension was loaded.
-The front rotor dust shields WILL need to be trimmed for clearing the caliper brackets. It's easy to do, but don't forget to do it while the hub bearing is removed.
Other than that, the job took 4hrs with one friend and myself. That also included an alignment. Don't try and drive it without getting an alignment!!!!
If your going to do hangers and shckles in the rear, then add another 3-4hrs to the job depending on your experience level.
This way worked out great for me. No complaints here!
Good luck!
Jim
10-30-2006, 03:23 PM
#15
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let me talk to my friend and he will tell me weather or not they came with 2" blocks cuz he said when he got under the truck he thought that he didnt see any at all
11-14-2006, 09:48 PM
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well he said that he didnt have 2" blocks on the rear end so we're thinking of getting a flip kit and some 2" drop spindles do you think that this is a good idea guys
11-17-2006, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by nicky g
well he said that he didnt have 2" blocks on the rear end so we're thinking of getting a flip kit and some 2" drop spindles do you think that this is a good idea guys
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