14 bolt swap nnbs to nnbs
#1
14 bolt swap nnbs to nnbs
I was told to come here and ask 1fastbrick who seems to be the guru on all things 14 bolt. I looked at the central 14 bolt thread y’all had going and didn’t find a clear answer for what I want to do, may be to dumb to see it lol First my truck is an 09 1500 5.3 ltz with 3.73 gears. I’ve found a 14 bolt off a nnbs Sierra with 4.10 gears and option gt5 which I believe is the discs. At one point I was naive enough to think this would be a literal plug and play but I’ve since been informed that I’m not so lucky. What would be involved? Obviously remove old axle put on new and plug in new brakes but I’ve seen I might need a proportioning valve going from drums to discs and I’ve seen talk of possible drive shaft shortening or an adapter. If anyone’s in the Nashville/Middle Tn area and feels like lending a hand or some advice face to face or even just watch and learn feel free to reach out. A warm shop with a lift to work in would be even better 😂
#2
Welcome to the site.
GT5 is the 4.10 gear ratio.
You didn't tell us what Cab/Bed configuration you have. Depending on that, you may need to shorten the drive shaft. You will likely need a new U-joint any way.
Going from Drum to Disc. Just order the correct master cylinder. They switched back to disc at some point in the GMT900 range.
GT5 is the 4.10 gear ratio.
You didn't tell us what Cab/Bed configuration you have. Depending on that, you may need to shorten the drive shaft. You will likely need a new U-joint any way.
Going from Drum to Disc. Just order the correct master cylinder. They switched back to disc at some point in the GMT900 range.
#5
And also regarding the master cylinder. I’ve seen on other threads that you can very easily swap the dual piston rears from the gmt 800 suvs, if I did that swap I’d still be using the same master cylinder as if I was just using single piston rears correct?
#6
It's a short bed, but what is the cab configuration??? regular, extended, or crew cab.
They probably have 1 or 2 types for the Disc master cylinder . Shouldn't really matter to much. Look up your options on Rock auto for like a 2010
They probably have 1 or 2 types for the Disc master cylinder . Shouldn't really matter to much. Look up your options on Rock auto for like a 2010
#7
It’s an extended cab, I looked at the donor and it’s literally the same cab/bed configuration as mine. Is that a good sign? Or would the transmission the other truck has also effect the length of the drive shaft I’m assuming. And I was on gmpartsdirect looking up the cylinders on a 2009 6.2 1500, apparently there are different master cylinders for trucks with stabilitrack and those without.
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#8
Yes, on the GMT 800 the OEM drive shaft was 5/8 shorter. but the slip yoke would allow you to compensate .
Most guys report direct drop in and only changing the U Joint.
Gm Parts direct Blows. Crappy Service. I will continue to Bad mouth them until I get my $10 that's owed to me.
Any way, I use http://parts.nalleygmc.com/ to look up parts. They usually have better diagrams.
Most guys report direct drop in and only changing the U Joint.
Gm Parts direct Blows. Crappy Service. I will continue to Bad mouth them until I get my $10 that's owed to me.
Any way, I use http://parts.nalleygmc.com/ to look up parts. They usually have better diagrams.
#10
Just have a local drive shaft shop shorten yours by 5/8" for $100, stop over complicating that. They can also provide and install the conversion U joint, usually at a discount and for much less frustration than you will experience doing it yourself. I wouldnt mix generations, just shorten yours.
I wouldnt give 2 poops about the master cylinder. Just plumb in the brakes, bleed them and go.
The length of this thread is longer than the time to swap the axles, its not difficult.
I wouldnt give 2 poops about the master cylinder. Just plumb in the brakes, bleed them and go.
The length of this thread is longer than the time to swap the axles, its not difficult.