14bolt 10.5" 6 lug conversion
01-01-2011, 01:43 PM
#23
The OEM 9.5" axle shafts are actually larger in diameter than the OEM 10.5" shafts. The 10.5" shafts aren't carrying any weight, no shear/lateral loading - torsional load only.
I would think the 11.5" assemblies are beginning to pile up in wrecking yards. 4x4 Jeep guys still ****** up the 10.5's and keep their prices high (especially for those with discs). There's probably very little demand for 11.5 full floaters...
01-01-2011, 06:53 PM
#24
I haven't had one, nope. I know of one guy who was running a 9.5" semi-float rear end in his Tahoe with a Ramjet 502 and a 250 shot. (You may know Steve, aka "Y2K Limited") His held but was walking the cover bolts out. That's a clear sign the housing is flexing and any flex of the housing will wreck the gear set in time if the carrier doesn't fail first. In fact, my original 8.5 used to do that chronically. The cover bolts needed to be tightened every month right before it blew.
The OEM 9.5" axle shafts are actually larger in diameter than the OEM 10.5" shafts. The 10.5" shafts aren't carrying any weight, no shear/lateral loading - torsional load only.
I would think the 11.5" assemblies are beginning to pile up in wrecking yards. 4x4 Jeep guys still ****** up the 10.5's and keep their prices high (especially for those with discs). There's probably very little demand for 11.5 full floaters...
The OEM 9.5" axle shafts are actually larger in diameter than the OEM 10.5" shafts. The 10.5" shafts aren't carrying any weight, no shear/lateral loading - torsional load only.
I would think the 11.5" assemblies are beginning to pile up in wrecking yards. 4x4 Jeep guys still ****** up the 10.5's and keep their prices high (especially for those with discs). There's probably very little demand for 11.5 full floaters...
What's new with the Hoe?
01-01-2011, 08:16 PM
#25
Howdy!
I guess since this is your thread and since you have powers it'll be alright it hijack it, eh? hah
I'm still pretty much the same, I drive like hell everywhere and always until something explodes
The Tahoe's been parked for a little over a year following an incident powersliding around a section of 25mph curved road, similar to a freeway merge loop, that ended with a few unplanned modifications to the 'Hoe. LOL! Prior to that, like all GMT400 trucks with dark paint, the clearcoat was going BAD on it and I was already looking at a $2800 paint job. (The last year of sitting has completely destroyed what was left of the paint.) With the additional body work, a lower a-arm, axle, rims, tires, blah blah blah it needed I decided to part it out. All easily fixable, but why bother? Valueless. I do still have it. Bought a '98 C2500 LT Suburban 2 days later dirt cheap. It already has so many of the things us 1500 guys have wasted so much time and money swapping to: 4L80-E, Hydroboost, bigger radiator, power-steering cooler, 10.5" 14-bolt, bigger brakes, bigger sway bars... the list goes on and on! I love the fact that underneath these things both sides between the driveline and frame rails are wide open - ideal for dual exhaust which of course I've already fabricated and installed. Little things about GMT400 Suburbans vs. Tahoes are nice too, like rear windows that go all the way down instead of 5", rear HEAT in addition to the A/C and a floor outlet, the massive 48 gallon fuel tank that's simple to drop for a fuel pump swap. I've seen people yank the second row bench and replace with another pair of front power heated buckets; it so happens I have a spare set! 2500 Suspension is better off for my style of "driving" too I've discovered. No swooshing and floating and bottoming out jumping whoops and stuff. I've already had the Sub 4 wheels up flying through the air and it lands nicely, no drama! Conclusively, I like the 3/4 ton Suburban a lot more.
So far I've got the Eaton Posi and 4.56 gears from the Tahoe in it, real Dual 3" symmetrical exhaust ending in a pair of Hooker Aerochambers, lots of tuning with TunerCATs, and H2 17x8.5" wheels with my favorite tires: Toyo Proxes ST-II. The Brodix-headed and cammed L29 454 is sitting in the garage along with the Tahoe's built 4L80-E w/10.5" TC and Gear Vendors OD. The trans and OD are probably next. I've still got all the parts to build a Gen-VI Bowtie Forged 540 too, that will follow. Compression will be 8.4:1, that ought to be a hint to what I want to ultimately do with it.
I guess since this is your thread and since you have powers it'll be alright it hijack it, eh? hah
I'm still pretty much the same, I drive like hell everywhere and always until something explodes
The Tahoe's been parked for a little over a year following an incident powersliding around a section of 25mph curved road, similar to a freeway merge loop, that ended with a few unplanned modifications to the 'Hoe. LOL! Prior to that, like all GMT400 trucks with dark paint, the clearcoat was going BAD on it and I was already looking at a $2800 paint job. (The last year of sitting has completely destroyed what was left of the paint.) With the additional body work, a lower a-arm, axle, rims, tires, blah blah blah it needed I decided to part it out. All easily fixable, but why bother? Valueless. I do still have it. Bought a '98 C2500 LT Suburban 2 days later dirt cheap. It already has so many of the things us 1500 guys have wasted so much time and money swapping to: 4L80-E, Hydroboost, bigger radiator, power-steering cooler, 10.5" 14-bolt, bigger brakes, bigger sway bars... the list goes on and on! I love the fact that underneath these things both sides between the driveline and frame rails are wide open - ideal for dual exhaust which of course I've already fabricated and installed. Little things about GMT400 Suburbans vs. Tahoes are nice too, like rear windows that go all the way down instead of 5", rear HEAT in addition to the A/C and a floor outlet, the massive 48 gallon fuel tank that's simple to drop for a fuel pump swap. I've seen people yank the second row bench and replace with another pair of front power heated buckets; it so happens I have a spare set! 2500 Suspension is better off for my style of "driving" too I've discovered. No swooshing and floating and bottoming out jumping whoops and stuff. I've already had the Sub 4 wheels up flying through the air and it lands nicely, no drama! Conclusively, I like the 3/4 ton Suburban a lot more.
So far I've got the Eaton Posi and 4.56 gears from the Tahoe in it, real Dual 3" symmetrical exhaust ending in a pair of Hooker Aerochambers, lots of tuning with TunerCATs, and H2 17x8.5" wheels with my favorite tires: Toyo Proxes ST-II. The Brodix-headed and cammed L29 454 is sitting in the garage along with the Tahoe's built 4L80-E w/10.5" TC and Gear Vendors OD. The trans and OD are probably next. I've still got all the parts to build a Gen-VI Bowtie Forged 540 too, that will follow. Compression will be 8.4:1, that ought to be a hint to what I want to ultimately do with it.
06-14-2013, 12:24 AM
#26
Howdy!
I guess since this is your thread and since you have powers it'll be alright it hijack it, eh? hah
I'm still pretty much the same, I drive like hell everywhere and always until something explodes
The Tahoe's been parked for a little over a year following an incident powersliding around a section of 25mph curved road, similar to a freeway merge loop, that ended with a few unplanned modifications to the 'Hoe. LOL! Prior to that, like all GMT400 trucks with dark paint, the clearcoat was going BAD on it and I was already looking at a $2800 paint job. (The last year of sitting has completely destroyed what was left of the paint.) With the additional body work, a lower a-arm, axle, rims, tires, blah blah blah it needed I decided to part it out. All easily fixable, but why bother? Valueless. I do still have it. Bought a '98 C2500 LT Suburban 2 days later dirt cheap. It already has so many of the things us 1500 guys have wasted so much time and money swapping to: 4L80-E, Hydroboost, bigger radiator, power-steering cooler, 10.5" 14-bolt, bigger brakes, bigger sway bars... the list goes on and on! I love the fact that underneath these things both sides between the driveline and frame rails are wide open - ideal for dual exhaust which of course I've already fabricated and installed. Little things about GMT400 Suburbans vs. Tahoes are nice too, like rear windows that go all the way down instead of 5", rear HEAT in addition to the A/C and a floor outlet, the massive 48 gallon fuel tank that's simple to drop for a fuel pump swap. I've seen people yank the second row bench and replace with another pair of front power heated buckets; it so happens I have a spare set! 2500 Suspension is better off for my style of "driving" too I've discovered. No swooshing and floating and bottoming out jumping whoops and stuff. I've already had the Sub 4 wheels up flying through the air and it lands nicely, no drama! Conclusively, I like the 3/4 ton Suburban a lot more.
So far I've got the Eaton Posi and 4.56 gears from the Tahoe in it, real Dual 3" symmetrical exhaust ending in a pair of Hooker Aerochambers, lots of tuning with TunerCATs, and H2 17x8.5" wheels with my favorite tires: Toyo Proxes ST-II. The Brodix-headed and cammed L29 454 is sitting in the garage along with the Tahoe's built 4L80-E w/10.5" TC and Gear Vendors OD. The trans and OD are probably next. I've still got all the parts to build a Gen-VI Bowtie Forged 540 too, that will follow. Compression will be 8.4:1, that ought to be a hint to what I want to ultimately do with it.
I guess since this is your thread and since you have powers it'll be alright it hijack it, eh? hah
I'm still pretty much the same, I drive like hell everywhere and always until something explodes
The Tahoe's been parked for a little over a year following an incident powersliding around a section of 25mph curved road, similar to a freeway merge loop, that ended with a few unplanned modifications to the 'Hoe. LOL! Prior to that, like all GMT400 trucks with dark paint, the clearcoat was going BAD on it and I was already looking at a $2800 paint job. (The last year of sitting has completely destroyed what was left of the paint.) With the additional body work, a lower a-arm, axle, rims, tires, blah blah blah it needed I decided to part it out. All easily fixable, but why bother? Valueless. I do still have it. Bought a '98 C2500 LT Suburban 2 days later dirt cheap. It already has so many of the things us 1500 guys have wasted so much time and money swapping to: 4L80-E, Hydroboost, bigger radiator, power-steering cooler, 10.5" 14-bolt, bigger brakes, bigger sway bars... the list goes on and on! I love the fact that underneath these things both sides between the driveline and frame rails are wide open - ideal for dual exhaust which of course I've already fabricated and installed. Little things about GMT400 Suburbans vs. Tahoes are nice too, like rear windows that go all the way down instead of 5", rear HEAT in addition to the A/C and a floor outlet, the massive 48 gallon fuel tank that's simple to drop for a fuel pump swap. I've seen people yank the second row bench and replace with another pair of front power heated buckets; it so happens I have a spare set! 2500 Suspension is better off for my style of "driving" too I've discovered. No swooshing and floating and bottoming out jumping whoops and stuff. I've already had the Sub 4 wheels up flying through the air and it lands nicely, no drama! Conclusively, I like the 3/4 ton Suburban a lot more.
So far I've got the Eaton Posi and 4.56 gears from the Tahoe in it, real Dual 3" symmetrical exhaust ending in a pair of Hooker Aerochambers, lots of tuning with TunerCATs, and H2 17x8.5" wheels with my favorite tires: Toyo Proxes ST-II. The Brodix-headed and cammed L29 454 is sitting in the garage along with the Tahoe's built 4L80-E w/10.5" TC and Gear Vendors OD. The trans and OD are probably next. I've still got all the parts to build a Gen-VI Bowtie Forged 540 too, that will follow. Compression will be 8.4:1, that ought to be a hint to what I want to ultimately do with it.
06-14-2013, 01:44 AM
#27
Hey... long time! Always fun digging up these old threads.
In December of 2011 the Suburban did get the Bowtie 540. Lots of excessively expensive parts in that. I used a Lunati Sledgehammer crank, Manley rods and pistons, and the heads and valvetrain from the L29 in the Tahoe. It made it through the break-in but had inconsistent oil pressure problems. I suspect the crank had something to do with it - rod bearings were not being fed. Of course Lunati stopped making Gen V/VI BBC Sledgehammer cranks before mine even went into the block.... weird, eh? It threw a rod cruising down the highway at 1800RPM with about 250 miles on it. Top end minus intake valves survived, the rest became scrap - literally the dampener was the only salvagable part under the heads; nothing else could be saved. The parts for the 540 had been acquired over the previous three years and the block was in the machine shop for 8 months anyway. What a PITA. So, the only logical thing to do was order up a GMPP 502 shortblock. It's got the same cam the 540 had, same heads, same port-matched L29 intake and injectors, etc. It's running on the factory black box with a little fudging since they only support 1L per cylinder. I drive it every day and it's getting 7.5mpg. That goes up to almost 10 with extended highway. It's got the same built 4L80-E and GV Overdrive I had in the Tahoe, which reminds me that rebuild is going on 90k BRUTAL miles! Cats sit aft in a 2500 GMT400 so I've got Doug's cutouts installed before the cats - it's feloniously loud and fun as hell. The 502 can break traction off the line and with a mild brake stall it will lay down some stripes fairly well considering it's 6500lbs with 285 Toyos on it.
The polished 3.3L Whipple and its 10-rib pulley are still sitting in the garage. With it I've got an air-to-water intercooler identical to the one that worked so well on the 383 in the Tahoe. I can't use the same heat exchanger I had in the Tahoe due to the factory trans cooler and auxiliary electric fan so I picked up a heat exchanger that fits between the frame rails behind the front bumper. The bumper itself will be swapped out for the 6.2/6.5L Diesel version with the air inlets, or perhaps something aftermarket - lots of choices for that. I have the Suburban's stock L29 on a stand in the garage for mock-up purposes but I've honestly been working on other projects around the house: the solar panel array, a Kubota-powered 12v generator, home theater, etc.
One of the problems I still need to overcome has to do with the 10-rib ATI dampener I had on the 540. ATI only makes these for internally-balanced cranks because there's not enough room for the counterweight. I ended up buying a standard counterweighted BBC dampener after some tedious investigation and luckily the internals are identical - you might even say "interchangeable", to a point. The ribbed shell is too deep for the hub because it contacts the counterweight. I bought a 3/16" sheet of steel and will be making a spacer to go between the shell and the hub. This will solve the problem and I'll be able to simply offset the driver-side accessory bracket by the same 3/16" forward to correct the OEM belt path alignment. (The passenger-side accessory bracket will be omitted entirely.) Haven't decided on mechanical or electric water pump yet but it looking like I'll need the room an electric will provide so I can run the compressor belt behind it. I'm not too keen on trusting an electric pump... it already barely stays cool enough on 100+ degree days - and that's with the clutch fan. A few other items will need attention, like the fuel pump and lines. Also, the 63lbs injectors will not be adequate, so those will be swapped out in favor of the Siemens 80lbs versions. And, sadly, the exhaust might be already too small. It's only dual 3" and it's got quite a bit of back pressure past 4k already.
Here's a few vids:
Cutouts closed and open: http://bertok.us/pics/DougsCutouts.mpg
Cutouts open WOT flyby: http://bertok.us/pics/CutoutsWOT.avi
Warmstart, Tuned: http://bertok.us/pics/502/Warmstart.mp4
Walk-Around at Idle: http://bertok.us/pics/502/WalkAround.mp4
Interior WOT 0-80mph, (earlier safe tune): http://bertok.us/pics/502/502-0-80.mp4
I'm not a fan of the cliche "STAY TUNED" or "MORE TO COME" stuff, so I'll just say "I'll probably get around to it some day!"
In December of 2011 the Suburban did get the Bowtie 540. Lots of excessively expensive parts in that. I used a Lunati Sledgehammer crank, Manley rods and pistons, and the heads and valvetrain from the L29 in the Tahoe. It made it through the break-in but had inconsistent oil pressure problems. I suspect the crank had something to do with it - rod bearings were not being fed. Of course Lunati stopped making Gen V/VI BBC Sledgehammer cranks before mine even went into the block.... weird, eh? It threw a rod cruising down the highway at 1800RPM with about 250 miles on it. Top end minus intake valves survived, the rest became scrap - literally the dampener was the only salvagable part under the heads; nothing else could be saved. The parts for the 540 had been acquired over the previous three years and the block was in the machine shop for 8 months anyway. What a PITA. So, the only logical thing to do was order up a GMPP 502 shortblock. It's got the same cam the 540 had, same heads, same port-matched L29 intake and injectors, etc. It's running on the factory black box with a little fudging since they only support 1L per cylinder. I drive it every day and it's getting 7.5mpg. That goes up to almost 10 with extended highway. It's got the same built 4L80-E and GV Overdrive I had in the Tahoe, which reminds me that rebuild is going on 90k BRUTAL miles! Cats sit aft in a 2500 GMT400 so I've got Doug's cutouts installed before the cats - it's feloniously loud and fun as hell. The 502 can break traction off the line and with a mild brake stall it will lay down some stripes fairly well considering it's 6500lbs with 285 Toyos on it.
The polished 3.3L Whipple and its 10-rib pulley are still sitting in the garage. With it I've got an air-to-water intercooler identical to the one that worked so well on the 383 in the Tahoe. I can't use the same heat exchanger I had in the Tahoe due to the factory trans cooler and auxiliary electric fan so I picked up a heat exchanger that fits between the frame rails behind the front bumper. The bumper itself will be swapped out for the 6.2/6.5L Diesel version with the air inlets, or perhaps something aftermarket - lots of choices for that. I have the Suburban's stock L29 on a stand in the garage for mock-up purposes but I've honestly been working on other projects around the house: the solar panel array, a Kubota-powered 12v generator, home theater, etc.
One of the problems I still need to overcome has to do with the 10-rib ATI dampener I had on the 540. ATI only makes these for internally-balanced cranks because there's not enough room for the counterweight. I ended up buying a standard counterweighted BBC dampener after some tedious investigation and luckily the internals are identical - you might even say "interchangeable", to a point. The ribbed shell is too deep for the hub because it contacts the counterweight. I bought a 3/16" sheet of steel and will be making a spacer to go between the shell and the hub. This will solve the problem and I'll be able to simply offset the driver-side accessory bracket by the same 3/16" forward to correct the OEM belt path alignment. (The passenger-side accessory bracket will be omitted entirely.) Haven't decided on mechanical or electric water pump yet but it looking like I'll need the room an electric will provide so I can run the compressor belt behind it. I'm not too keen on trusting an electric pump... it already barely stays cool enough on 100+ degree days - and that's with the clutch fan. A few other items will need attention, like the fuel pump and lines. Also, the 63lbs injectors will not be adequate, so those will be swapped out in favor of the Siemens 80lbs versions. And, sadly, the exhaust might be already too small. It's only dual 3" and it's got quite a bit of back pressure past 4k already.
Here's a few vids:
Cutouts closed and open: http://bertok.us/pics/DougsCutouts.mpg
Cutouts open WOT flyby: http://bertok.us/pics/CutoutsWOT.avi
Warmstart, Tuned: http://bertok.us/pics/502/Warmstart.mp4
Walk-Around at Idle: http://bertok.us/pics/502/WalkAround.mp4
Interior WOT 0-80mph, (earlier safe tune): http://bertok.us/pics/502/502-0-80.mp4
I'm not a fan of the cliche "STAY TUNED" or "MORE TO COME" stuff, so I'll just say "I'll probably get around to it some day!"
06-19-2013, 09:08 AM
#29
Hey... long time! Always fun digging up these old threads.
In December of 2011 the Suburban did get the Bowtie 540. Lots of excessively expensive parts in that. I used a Lunati Sledgehammer crank, Manley rods and pistons, and the heads and valvetrain from the L29 in the Tahoe. It made it through the break-in but had inconsistent oil pressure problems. I suspect the crank had something to do with it - rod bearings were not being fed. Of course Lunati stopped making Gen V/VI BBC Sledgehammer cranks before mine even went into the block.... weird, eh? It threw a rod cruising down the highway at 1800RPM with about 250 miles on it. Top end minus intake valves survived, the rest became scrap - literally the dampener was the only salvagable part under the heads; nothing else could be saved. The parts for the 540 had been acquired over the previous three years and the block was in the machine shop for 8 months anyway. What a PITA. So, the only logical thing to do was order up a GMPP 502 shortblock. It's got the same cam the 540 had, same heads, same port-matched L29 intake and injectors, etc. It's running on the factory black box with a little fudging since they only support 1L per cylinder. I drive it every day and it's getting 7.5mpg. That goes up to almost 10 with extended highway. It's got the same built 4L80-E and GV Overdrive I had in the Tahoe, which reminds me that rebuild is going on 90k BRUTAL miles! Cats sit aft in a 2500 GMT400 so I've got Doug's cutouts installed before the cats - it's feloniously loud and fun as hell. The 502 can break traction off the line and with a mild brake stall it will lay down some stripes fairly well considering it's 6500lbs with 285 Toyos on it.
The polished 3.3L Whipple and its 10-rib pulley are still sitting in the garage. With it I've got an air-to-water intercooler identical to the one that worked so well on the 383 in the Tahoe. I can't use the same heat exchanger I had in the Tahoe due to the factory trans cooler and auxiliary electric fan so I picked up a heat exchanger that fits between the frame rails behind the front bumper. The bumper itself will be swapped out for the 6.2/6.5L Diesel version with the air inlets, or perhaps something aftermarket - lots of choices for that. I have the Suburban's stock L29 on a stand in the garage for mock-up purposes but I've honestly been working on other projects around the house: the solar panel array, a Kubota-powered 12v generator, home theater, etc.
One of the problems I still need to overcome has to do with the 10-rib ATI dampener I had on the 540. ATI only makes these for internally-balanced cranks because there's not enough room for the counterweight. I ended up buying a standard counterweighted BBC dampener after some tedious investigation and luckily the internals are identical - you might even say "interchangeable", to a point. The ribbed shell is too deep for the hub because it contacts the counterweight. I bought a 3/16" sheet of steel and will be making a spacer to go between the shell and the hub. This will solve the problem and I'll be able to simply offset the driver-side accessory bracket by the same 3/16" forward to correct the OEM belt path alignment. (The passenger-side accessory bracket will be omitted entirely.) Haven't decided on mechanical or electric water pump yet but it looking like I'll need the room an electric will provide so I can run the compressor belt behind it. I'm not too keen on trusting an electric pump... it already barely stays cool enough on 100+ degree days - and that's with the clutch fan. A few other items will need attention, like the fuel pump and lines. Also, the 63lbs injectors will not be adequate, so those will be swapped out in favor of the Siemens 80lbs versions. And, sadly, the exhaust might be already too small. It's only dual 3" and it's got quite a bit of back pressure past 4k already.
Here's a few vids:
Cutouts closed and open: http://bertok.us/pics/DougsCutouts.mpg
Cutouts open WOT flyby: http://bertok.us/pics/CutoutsWOT.avi
Warmstart, Tuned: http://bertok.us/pics/502/Warmstart.mp4
Walk-Around at Idle: http://bertok.us/pics/502/WalkAround.mp4
Interior WOT 0-80mph, (earlier safe tune): http://bertok.us/pics/502/502-0-80.mp4
I'm not a fan of the cliche "STAY TUNED" or "MORE TO COME" stuff, so I'll just say "I'll probably get around to it some day!"
In December of 2011 the Suburban did get the Bowtie 540. Lots of excessively expensive parts in that. I used a Lunati Sledgehammer crank, Manley rods and pistons, and the heads and valvetrain from the L29 in the Tahoe. It made it through the break-in but had inconsistent oil pressure problems. I suspect the crank had something to do with it - rod bearings were not being fed. Of course Lunati stopped making Gen V/VI BBC Sledgehammer cranks before mine even went into the block.... weird, eh? It threw a rod cruising down the highway at 1800RPM with about 250 miles on it. Top end minus intake valves survived, the rest became scrap - literally the dampener was the only salvagable part under the heads; nothing else could be saved. The parts for the 540 had been acquired over the previous three years and the block was in the machine shop for 8 months anyway. What a PITA. So, the only logical thing to do was order up a GMPP 502 shortblock. It's got the same cam the 540 had, same heads, same port-matched L29 intake and injectors, etc. It's running on the factory black box with a little fudging since they only support 1L per cylinder. I drive it every day and it's getting 7.5mpg. That goes up to almost 10 with extended highway. It's got the same built 4L80-E and GV Overdrive I had in the Tahoe, which reminds me that rebuild is going on 90k BRUTAL miles! Cats sit aft in a 2500 GMT400 so I've got Doug's cutouts installed before the cats - it's feloniously loud and fun as hell. The 502 can break traction off the line and with a mild brake stall it will lay down some stripes fairly well considering it's 6500lbs with 285 Toyos on it.
The polished 3.3L Whipple and its 10-rib pulley are still sitting in the garage. With it I've got an air-to-water intercooler identical to the one that worked so well on the 383 in the Tahoe. I can't use the same heat exchanger I had in the Tahoe due to the factory trans cooler and auxiliary electric fan so I picked up a heat exchanger that fits between the frame rails behind the front bumper. The bumper itself will be swapped out for the 6.2/6.5L Diesel version with the air inlets, or perhaps something aftermarket - lots of choices for that. I have the Suburban's stock L29 on a stand in the garage for mock-up purposes but I've honestly been working on other projects around the house: the solar panel array, a Kubota-powered 12v generator, home theater, etc.
One of the problems I still need to overcome has to do with the 10-rib ATI dampener I had on the 540. ATI only makes these for internally-balanced cranks because there's not enough room for the counterweight. I ended up buying a standard counterweighted BBC dampener after some tedious investigation and luckily the internals are identical - you might even say "interchangeable", to a point. The ribbed shell is too deep for the hub because it contacts the counterweight. I bought a 3/16" sheet of steel and will be making a spacer to go between the shell and the hub. This will solve the problem and I'll be able to simply offset the driver-side accessory bracket by the same 3/16" forward to correct the OEM belt path alignment. (The passenger-side accessory bracket will be omitted entirely.) Haven't decided on mechanical or electric water pump yet but it looking like I'll need the room an electric will provide so I can run the compressor belt behind it. I'm not too keen on trusting an electric pump... it already barely stays cool enough on 100+ degree days - and that's with the clutch fan. A few other items will need attention, like the fuel pump and lines. Also, the 63lbs injectors will not be adequate, so those will be swapped out in favor of the Siemens 80lbs versions. And, sadly, the exhaust might be already too small. It's only dual 3" and it's got quite a bit of back pressure past 4k already.
Here's a few vids:
Cutouts closed and open: http://bertok.us/pics/DougsCutouts.mpg
Cutouts open WOT flyby: http://bertok.us/pics/CutoutsWOT.avi
Warmstart, Tuned: http://bertok.us/pics/502/Warmstart.mp4
Walk-Around at Idle: http://bertok.us/pics/502/WalkAround.mp4
Interior WOT 0-80mph, (earlier safe tune): http://bertok.us/pics/502/502-0-80.mp4
I'm not a fan of the cliche "STAY TUNED" or "MORE TO COME" stuff, so I'll just say "I'll probably get around to it some day!"
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