harner

iTrader: (15)

So my Dad's truck is a 195k, winter-driven, ungaraged 2000 Silverado with a 4.8L. It's pretty unmolested aside from a custom dual-out Magnaflow exhaust and tune. Motor is very healthy, it rarely ever sees high RPM's (3k+).

Long story short, the stock 60e FINALLY let go. Lost 2nd, 4th, and reverse. I have it lined up with my builder (Cahall Performance Transmissions) for a stock rebuild and new Protorque stock converter.



Having issues removing it. I've been searching forums, Youtube videos, etc. It's just a bastard.

Here is what I have done so far:
- Dropped Y pipe -- that sucked on the manifold side but a torch helped
- Dropped starter
- Drained xfer case
- Tried turning the converter bolts on the flywheel and they don't budge!
- MANGLED the neutral safety switch due to the "sealant" they use on the plugs at the factory. Cruel...
- Waiting on draining the trans fluid because the bolt in the pan didn't even want to budge.

I have EIGHT hours into this with two other guys. The exhaust took most of that time.

So, the stock bolts use an 8mm allen. I have one on a socket and it was literally bending the ratchet. Tried a 6" pipe and still no go.

I am deathly afraid of screwing those bolts up. The last thing I want to do is attempt to dremel the bolt heads off or something. Not even sure how to get in there.

So, what's the trick? I understand a truck with those miles that saw snow/salt every year will give us problems, but this is ridiculous. There has to be some pro tips you guys can share.

I pulled the trans in my 94 T/A in under an hour. This is just cruel and unusual lol.

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

Only thing I can think of is to spray it down with some penetrating oil to try and loosen it. Also try hitting it with an impact, not because of the force, but from the shock may loosen it. Or you could try some heat on it to see if it softens it some.

Also you didn't have to drain the tcase, just don't tilt to so the tailshaft is down and it will be fine.

1FastBrick

iTrader: (17)

Which bolts are you referring to removing with an 8MM allen?

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

Pretty sure he means the converter to flexplate bolts...

tgui

I'm in the middle of pulling my 4l60e.

- NSS, heat gun gets the connectors out

- Don't forget to remove shift linkage.

- Lots of PB Blaster all over

- Breaker bar on trans drain plug

- My converter bolts are 15mm with an allen hole as well. I effectively had to make a breaker bar while using a huge flathead screw driver to hold the flywheel in place.

- **** the starter.

- I removed the xfer case by itself. This allows access to hard to reach bellhousing bolts.

- Have a really long, like 24'' long extension. Sit under truck behind trans and use 13mm to get bracket bolts off, then 15mm to get housing bolts off. Use deep 13mm and 15mm sockets. A swivel at the end is needed. I taped mine up to keep it from flopping all around.

- Support trans, drop crossmember, remover exhaust ypipe. Crossmember uses 13/16 deep socket.

- Lower trans a tad so you can get the top bellhousing bolt now.

- Now disconnect trans cooler lines.

- Disconnect speed sensor and main trans connector.

- Wiggle and lower trans.

1FastBrick

iTrader: (17)

Thought they also had a 15MM hex head on them?


Either way, use an impact driver on them to shock them. They usually break loose after that. They have loctite on them from the factory.

tgui

Older trucks just have the allen.

2001+ (I think) have the 15mm and allen option.

1FastBrick

iTrader: (17)

I believe you are correct. The early ones may have been an allen only bolt.

Now that I think about it I believe my 00 was that way.

All the stuff I have been working on lately is usually 05-06 stuff or newer.

Choda

iTrader: (1)

def soak all the bolts and buts in pb blast. at least over night.

try using the 24" extension going from the front of the motor under the pass manifold in the open area where the starter goes to get those bolts out. impact with a allen should get them out. I would try heat too. You do not want to strip them.

harner

iTrader: (15)

Thanks everyone for the responses. Yes, 8MM allens are on the flexplate on the 2000. The replacement bolts from GM are all 15MM now.

I hosed the bolts down with WD40 since I didn't have any PB Blaster on hand. I'll hit them again with PB a day or two before the project goes down. And then again right before haha.

So I was laying behind the front tire on the pass side to get any kind of muscle on the ratchet. Where is there room for an impact? Just long extension and do it from the front? It's crazy how limited space is in there. Where I was trying to tighten them, I wouldn't be able to get a big breaker in there or an extension/impact. Not even sure how I'd get the torch in there.

As for the NSS - I did learn the hard way about the heat gun. Luckily that's only a $30-40 part.

I also dread doing the trans cooler lines. This truck has issues. I just had new rockers put on only to find frame rot and brake/fuel lines ready to fall off.