Choda

iTrader: (1)

try the impact the way I told you. From the front. when you replace those allens with hex bolts, you can get a reg 3/8 ratchet in there where the starter goes to tighten/loosen them in the future.

tgui

I got mine out tonight. Get a big ******* pry bar. This one is 42 inches from home depot. Don't pry against the oil pan.

Good luck! I had plenty of rust from salt. You're in for a real treat!

GMCtrk

iTrader: (27)

Grab the tailshaft and wiggle with force from side to side. That should give you enough room to get a flathead screwdriver between the bellhousing and block and break it free.

tgui

Not going to happen if dowels are corroded like so.

GMCtrk

iTrader: (27)

That's not really much corrosion at all. Spray some kroil in the dowel holes from the engine side and then grab the tailshaft and yank it.

harner

iTrader: (15)

Thanks, all. Not even worried about prying or wiggling yet. My concern is having room to get an impact in there.

Operating tonight, I'll keep you guys posted.

Wolftrk99

iTrader: (5)

Have had to use an air hammer to remove the original converter bolts... Due to rounding the allen out, the 99-02 had a rounded bolt with an allen in them... A 3/8 impact will normally break them loose, if not get an 8mm allen socket, a 3 or 4 inch extension and the longest ratchet or breaker bar you have and kinda use the block to hold the head of the ratchet while you break them loose and about time you think you broke something they will break free..... Good luck getting the drain plug out of the pan, if you wanna drain the fluid drop the pan, separate the tcase and drop it first... See tgui's thread if your trans wont break free from engine....

harner

iTrader: (15)

Thanks.

So here's an update for everyone providing input/pro-tips and for those just following along:

Gave the three flexplate bolts a bath in PB Blaster. I was going to get high strength Zep 45, but didn't want to pay $15 for a can. I also tried to buy a 1/2" 8mm allen socket but all the local stores only had 3/8" singles, or I could buy an entire set for $35. Screw that.

Grabbed the 3/8" 8mm allen socket I used before and this time a 3/8" breaker bar. It wasn't long, maybe 8". Put a pipe on the end and long 1/2" breaker car into the pipe. Bolts broke loose and you could literally unscrew by hand after they broke free. Didn't look like loctite was on them? No heat, no rounding out...THANK GOD!

I didn't even screw around with the trans pan drain bolt. I slowly loosened them up and drained it that way. Fluid color is good but smells a little funky. Also removed a couple brackets and plugs, xfer case linkage, etc. The metal bracket that holds the shifter linkage didn't want to budge with a T-40 torx bit. So, the linkage cable off and the bracket stayed on.

So now we are in the home stretch with ONLY 11 hours into this job lol... Keep in mind, it is a 195k truck with rust and crap everywhere. The body/fab guy is getting it back as soon as it's mobile again to fix some frame rot.

Alright, so Friday night this is going to happen, or at least how "I" think it should happen:

1) Disconnect transfer case.

2) Need to remove the top bellhousing bolt. Can't see it from under the truck OR feel it from the top. I'd imagine the only way to get to it is by removing the xfer case and a long *** extension. The others came out easy.

3) Drop the trans/crossmember slightly for a better angle on the trans cooler lines. I didn't have a pick handy last night but saw they make special tools to disconnect them. Sort of like a fuel line disconnect. Borrowing some of those to see if they do the trick.

4) Remove any other misc looms, hoses, cables, whatever else may be bolted on to the trans case lol, that's never ending. Drop the trans and take it and the torque converter to go get rebuilt at CPT.


It's safe to start buying parts for the install. I plan on the following:
- NSS
- Exhaust stud & nut kit
- Flexplate bolts (anyone know the PN for them?)
- Trans fluid (same for transfer case?)

Hopefully that's it.

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

You can use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the cooler line E clips relatively easily. Just find the edge of one and push and it will roll off.

tgui

Xfer case uses special fluid, not trans fluid. I got some from Amazon. Its a blue liquid.