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2011 Yukon autoride suspension

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Old 06-01-2015 | 03:52 PM
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Default 2011 Yukon autoride suspension

Anyone know anything about the Z55 Autoride package on a 2011 Yukon Denali? We bought my wife's Yukon used and I had no idea they had this. I started checking things out because our Yukon rides really firm. My dad has the exact same vehicle and his is significantly softer than ours is. I crawled underneath and took a quick look, and the air shock "sacks" are all ripped up so there's no way they would hold air. I have never heard any kind of compressor running, so I'm assuming it's either burned out or someone pulled the fuses. Is there a way to disable or adjust the Autoride system at all? Is there a module the dealer can pull codes from? Would any of this cause the suspension to firm up? My initial thought was that it would make it softer rather than firmer, but I don't know much about these things.
Old 06-02-2015 | 01:38 AM
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No, in the event that Autoride fails, it will attempt to lock the shocks to maximum dampening. You should have a "Service Suspension" light on as well (if not, someone may have pulled fuses and disconnected the battery to reset)

Yes, you can bypass/remove it:
https://www.arnottindustries.com/par...71_gid781.html

Or you can fix it:
https://www.arnottindustries.com/par...1_gid1095.html
Old 06-02-2015 | 01:48 AM
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Thanks for the links. I want to fix it, just wondering if the previous owner disabled it since I'm not getting any lights or codes. That would make sense since the ride seems really firm that it's defaulted to max damping. I bet it's disabled. Might try to dig into it this weekend.
Old 06-04-2015 | 08:31 AM
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I checked fuses yesterday and the 40 amp compressor fuse is blown. The other two (compressor relay fuse and ESSC/exhaust valve fuse) are ok. Checked the shocks again and the air sleeve on the passenger shock is ripped. Driver's side looks ok.

Where is the ESC module? I'm still thinking that it's unplugged since we don't get any messages on the DIC. That's the next step is to check that before I start ordering replacement parts.
Old 06-04-2015 | 10:11 AM
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Found diagrams, these should give me the info I need.

2011 GMC YUKON DENALI 4DR WIRING HARNESS/CHASSIS

2011 GMC YUKON DENALI 4DR ABSORBER/FRONT SHOCK & SPRING

2011 GMC YUKON DENALI 4DR LEVEL CONTROL COMPRESSOR/AUTOMATIC

2011 GMC YUKON DENALI 4DR SUSPENSION CONTROLS/ELECTRONIC
Old 06-05-2015 | 04:45 AM
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If the 40A fuse was blown then your pump motor and and possibly the relay are shot. When the pump over-runs it will normally go into thermal interlock disable, but if the dessicant cylinder lets in water the pump can potentially seize up. If you replace the fuse you should do a battery disconnect to make sure the Autoride controller can reset.

Your pump should be located in the left rear quarter panel, near the frame rail.
Old 06-05-2015 | 11:18 AM
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I fixed mine and in the end don't believe it was worth it. They sell aftermarket kits to change out your springs and shocks to get rid of it. IMO the best option. Minor note: you need new springs to compensate for the loss of the airbags.

After paying for a new compressor, all four new electronic shocks, etc. I just can't see the system is worth the money other than knowing that your truck is stock.
Old 07-26-2015 | 06:23 AM
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Thanks for posting these links.
How did you make out with yours?
My parents are getting the "service suspension" message on a '08 Tahoe.
You can hear the pump run when adding weight to the rear, but not when added to the front of the truck. And the ride seems a little harsher than what I remember.
Old 07-26-2015 | 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 95wannabe
Thanks for posting these links.
How did you make out with yours?
My parents are getting the "service suspension" message on a '08 Tahoe.
You can hear the pump run when adding weight to the rear, but not when added to the front of the truck. And the ride seems a little harsher than what I remember.
Autoride does not level the front of the truck. It only levels the rear. A service message with the air suspension still functioning means one of the electronic valves in the shocks (all 4 have independent electronic valving) has failed.
Old 07-26-2015 | 05:24 PM
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I haven't worked on mine yet, so nothing to report.


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