4 Link Geometry
09-25-2009, 08:59 PM
#13
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well i told you i was gonna show u some pix of a cool setup that used the aldan eagles, but apparently i dont have the pix anymore. well hellz... i'll see whatever else i can come up with. i think those pix must be on my parents computer at their house. i remember having them just cant remember where. it was a nifty setup you need to see them pix.
09-27-2009, 07:49 AM
#14
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Ive done a ton of research on 4 links as well as come up with designs on 8 and 9 second 4 link cars. Also built myself a 4 link front engine dragster (first one that i know of)
anyway... download the 4 link calculator online like this guy here http://performancetrends.com/4link.htm ive used this a lot and it works very well. we compared our setup to a ex-NHRA pro stock car and our measurements were dead on. enter your weight on front and rear tires, as well as cg height wise. usually around the height of the crank. it may be a little higher in a truck. you will have to take some other measurements aswell. you will see what they are asking for in the software. set your CG a little bit ahead of the box that it gives you. you will want your antisquat at 110-120. this will make the rear not raise or sink on a launch. you do know that a car that "squats" at the line in a sense is trying to pull the back tires off the ground. Even with weight transfer this 110-120% antisquat should keep you level and hit the tires HARD! got a 700 hp jaguar doin 1.3x 60' leavin from idle. your going to have to make your own brackets and own links. for you id try to have them a little over 2 ft long. you will have to give it an idea in the software of where the holes are in relation to the ground so you also have to know axle centerline from the ground. Its a lot of info to enter but it will be worth it. i always shot for starting the holes 1" or so ahead of the axle center line then a 1" or 3/4" spacing up and down. material for the links. purchase some 1" x .156 wall chromoly tubing from dilsburg aeroplane works in PA. they are cheapest on moly tubing. this size tube will allow you to just tap the ends 3/4-16 for rod ends. the ID is already the tap drill size. remember one side gets right hand one side gets left hand threads. ive used qa1 rod ends. they run around $200 for a set of 8. youd need 2 extra for panhard bar. one thing.. not sure how the qa1's will hold up on the street. my experience with them is full out trailered drag cars and they hold up just fine
BTW.. do a search for the key for that software.. you can get it for free instead of paying
anyway... download the 4 link calculator online like this guy here http://performancetrends.com/4link.htm ive used this a lot and it works very well. we compared our setup to a ex-NHRA pro stock car and our measurements were dead on. enter your weight on front and rear tires, as well as cg height wise. usually around the height of the crank. it may be a little higher in a truck. you will have to take some other measurements aswell. you will see what they are asking for in the software. set your CG a little bit ahead of the box that it gives you. you will want your antisquat at 110-120. this will make the rear not raise or sink on a launch. you do know that a car that "squats" at the line in a sense is trying to pull the back tires off the ground. Even with weight transfer this 110-120% antisquat should keep you level and hit the tires HARD! got a 700 hp jaguar doin 1.3x 60' leavin from idle. your going to have to make your own brackets and own links. for you id try to have them a little over 2 ft long. you will have to give it an idea in the software of where the holes are in relation to the ground so you also have to know axle centerline from the ground. Its a lot of info to enter but it will be worth it. i always shot for starting the holes 1" or so ahead of the axle center line then a 1" or 3/4" spacing up and down. material for the links. purchase some 1" x .156 wall chromoly tubing from dilsburg aeroplane works in PA. they are cheapest on moly tubing. this size tube will allow you to just tap the ends 3/4-16 for rod ends. the ID is already the tap drill size. remember one side gets right hand one side gets left hand threads. ive used qa1 rod ends. they run around $200 for a set of 8. youd need 2 extra for panhard bar. one thing.. not sure how the qa1's will hold up on the street. my experience with them is full out trailered drag cars and they hold up just fine
BTW.. do a search for the key for that software.. you can get it for free instead of paying
09-27-2009, 08:27 AM
#15
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I still say stick with a 4 link and panhard, this way each member is doing one job. and you won't have to mess with the gastank location or any funny crossmembers. BUT if you do tri4 the tri bars should meet pointing towards the front of the truck, not the rear.
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