terravast4

iTrader: (25)

You need to do your research on a watts and a pan hard and your plans for your vehicle. There are differences and benefits to both. For my purpose street/strip I chose the pan hard

BigKID

iTrader: (5)

The Ridetech 3-link on the racetruck rides better than the stock'ish suspension on the SD, even with stiff springs. There are some things I don't like about some of the bolt-in components, mainly the wishbone brace that mounts to the differential cover, so I plan on fabing some new mounts when I go thru the rearend. I push the truck hard on course though, so for a bolt-in option for a daily, it would be perfectly fine. With some design ques from the ridetech, I have considered fabing my own 3-link for the SD using bags or shockwaves instead of coilovers for the ride height adjustability while towing. Otherwise, a 4-link with a panhard would fit the bill fine. Panhards work fine as long as they are long enough to keep a long arc and are kept parallel with the axle. The mounting height of the bar can be used as a tuning tool for the roll center when trying to dial in on course.

adriver

iTrader: (1)

Oh yeah, they are in Ontario, CA.. I had that mixed up with Raw Fabrications in San Antonio.

The way I understand the differences beyond keeping the axle centered laterally are: The panhard bar is more for lack of space, and it easier to install, but it will effect hard cornering differently depending on which side it mounts on, because you would have SOME roll. The watts link if properly setup keeps the axle centered better in more circumstances, is better if you have longer (then a few inches of) suspension travel, reacts the same for when cornering each way. It does take up more room, and is a few hairs more involved to setup properly.

I'm 2" drop in the rear to level it is the main reason I'm sticking with a watts link.

shakenfake

Thanks guys.
@terravast4 This truck will stay purely street. It may see the track literally one time in it's life but there are no tracks near me and I am not lookin to embarrass myself lol The whole point for a 4-link is ride quality. I doubt I will ever tow.
@BigKID I honestly think I like the Twisted Metal Workz kit better than the one from Ride Tech. I think the hardest part for me is going to be the measuring and cutting but there is fortunately not a whole lot of that anyways lol

I think I would probably run the panhard bar just because it comes with it rather than try and fab a watts link and go to that set up. If it comes to me wanting to switch it up then I always can.

adriver

iTrader: (1)

Dear Atomic, (I don't know how to tag), I know you don't already have enough on your plate. How about a fancy diff cover for 10 & 14 bolts that has main cap supports, convenient drain and fill ports, holds between the factory 2.2 or 3 qts of fluid, and has a integrated pivot for a watts link. Thanks.

shakenfake

Use the @ sign. He is on vacation though lol

firebladeJJ

iTrader: (1)

I asked Atomic a few years ago if he was going to get into doing stuff like this for the rear, at the time, he said no, but I bet we could peer pressure him into it.

adriver

iTrader: (1)

Thanks


It works on teenagers. Lets give it a try.




@Atomic

firebladeJJ

iTrader: (1)

Hell, I'd give him my truck for a few months to do some R&D if he wanted.

shakenfake

@firebladeJJ That's because you are tired of fixing it