ChevyTruck

iTrader: (39)

He is going to do the build, it is no cost to me its under warranty for a year.




Do I hold the record for the shortest lived 4L60E???

AKlowriderZ71

iTrader: (22)

No.

I had mine rebuilt once(from a smoked band & 3-4 clutch pack). Got it back, installed it, and it failed on the first test drive.

Mangled03gmc

iTrader: (95)

No but you hold the record for biggest dunce

charcold-bowtie

iTrader: (10)

I really liked my tranny guy as well, but my 60s weren't holding worth a ****. Time to move on. I doubt you need more than a stock 80e tbh

Vince B

iTrader: (1)

Please explain this one to me? I have installed probably a couple thousand of them and can count on my two hands the amount failures I have had with the 2-4 band. Not buying into that one.

silverz28camaro

iTrader: (20)

You know more then me about these trans...I like the standard width because I THINK it helps cushing the already fragile 1-2 shift....

I'm not sure what power the OP is pushing but if its around 400 do you think he really needs the extra wide band? I was just trying to help him soften the shifts IF they are to harsh now to get the hard parts to live a bit longer.

My Ram doesn't have much power as of now, est. 310 rwhp, but I have the standard width band in it with the corvette servo and it shifts Firm, fast, but not harsh by any means. Trans fluid appears pink every since I did the swap back in 2010. I've been to gateway with slicks, street raced with it many many times already(knock on wood) the 4l60e is still going good. Plus if the band does start to slip at least you can get it home rather then loosing all gears.....my 2cents



It seems to me that I read more posts on here about broken 4l60e parts rather then smoked bands that are near new. Kinda starts to make me wonder how hard the 1-2 shift really needs to be???? I'd rather replace a burnt band every 2 years then replace outputs, planetaries, etc every week....LOL.

AKlowriderZ71

iTrader: (22)

I smoked a couple of the wide bands before I switched to the stock width carbonite band. My problem with the wide band was they always seemed to burn the outside edges, and the centers looked okay. This was using a new drum each time.

I'm not convinced that the wide band is a good idea, but I've had my fair share of 60E troubles.

Vince B

iTrader: (1)

IMO billet shafts are a good idea when the power of a vehicle warrants it. In most cases I think that most trucks can get away with a set of 5 pinion planets and a billet output. Personally I feel some of the issues we see with broken parts is not only how hard the transmission is shifting but also the end play of the unit. It seems that most guys never look at this when they build units for performance applications. The more these parts are bouncing around the increased chance they have to fail!

I do agree that the 1-2 shift does not need to be a rock crushing shift and I have said this for years. Like in any clutch pack the the more clearance the harder the shift. The wide band is not the issue here. It was explained to me years ago to look at it like this. Take your hand and make a fist. Go up to a brick wall and hold your hand 2 inches off the wall and punch it. Then take your hand and hold it 2 foot away from the same wall and punch it. Which one hit harder?

I always keep the feed hole for 2nd on the small side and also band clearance is important here. All you have done here with the factory width band is allow the band to slip some on the apply to slow the reverse input drum down before it stops. By doing this the drum sees heat and it warps. I get what you guys are saying about seeing the outer edges burn some using a wide band but they did not fail. At the end of the day they were still working and you were into the unit for a warn out 3-4 pack or a broken hard part. Or with the narrow band it finally failed and it was time to freshen up the unit. Or as I mentioned above you had another clutch or hard part failure.

I think if you reduce some of the end play in the unit you will find that the sun shell will keep from tossing the reverse input drum around and you will see less issues with the band. You will also reduce some of the wear you see on other parts, bushings, bearings and also failures of planets. Not sure if you guys use Viton servo D-ring kits in your 2nd and 4th servos. These work well in these two circuits and I have been using these for a long time. They seal better than a Teflon seal and also reduce the delay of snapping that Teflon seal to make the component stroke. Just make sure to scotch brite your servo and accumulator bores so the pistons seal and move nicely. You'll be happy you did I guaranty it!

One thing guys never do with rubber seals is scotch brite the seal bores. When a bore is glazed(shinny) it is ruff on a seal and also the piston does not stroke as it should IMO. Here is another analogy like the one above with the brick wall. Take a squeegee and a piece of dry glass. Run that squeegee down the glass and notice how it hops as you stroke it down the glass. This is what is happening with your pistons when the bore is glazed using rubber seals. Now take and wet that glass and see how nice the squeegee glides down that glass. This is how your pistons should stroke and keep your shifts consistent. Wrap your mind around some of what I just typed up for you and make your own decision. Well enough for now have a great day! Vince

2BFAST

iTrader: (11)

^^^^^ always enjoy reading your posts.

LBSBLOWN

iTrader: (1)

I must be the luckest guy on here (Truck in Sig) I have 75,000 miles on my stock trans (only mods are: Transgo HD2 shift kit, corvette servo, amsoil supershift racing fluid, and I have retuned many pressure tables , shift tables, and TM tables.) this truck has had the Radix supercharger on it since it had 720 miles from new.

I did notice in the winter one time down shifting from 4th in OD to secound at about 60mph a little slip so I tweeked the Force Motor Current (Trans Pressure Table) a little and cleaned my MAF sensor which now I clean every year, and the slip is gone and I change my Trans Fluid and filter every 30,00o miles.

All this seems to have worked well for me (Nock on Wood)