nonnieselman

iTrader: (10)

Ive gotten a large flat head screwdriver and pry it out easy.. Or get vice grips on the cover and it pops right out.

Did you remove the wire Ring first ?

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

What everyone else said. I got 210k on my old trans, but it was on its last leg.

offroadrider12

you're supposed to depress the cover first right so you can get out the snap ring? I had a big crowbar down there and couldn't depress it at all.

TX Tahoe Z71

iTrader: (28)

Shouldn't depress much, maybe 1/4", but it definitely should depress. But like nonnie said, pop the snapring out with a flathead, but make sure the trans is cool and you have a pan underneath, otherwise you might scald yourself and dump trans fluid all over your driveway (not a lot, but enough that you wish you had a pan underneath).

offroadrider12

cover still won't depress at all

TX Tahoe Z71

iTrader: (28)

That's depressing

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

I literally LOL'ed. Thanks, I needed that!

offroadrider12

Ok now I am looking at rebuild kits. I have found this kit which a local shop with a good reputation would install. I am planning on running a Circle D 300mm converter with the 2200-2400 stall.

Here are the contents of the kit:


"Complete description of the parts in the rebuild kit"

Seal retainer
Late design seal
13-vane rotor with vanes, slide, rotor guide & pin assembly
Trans-Go steel rings & priming spring (under 5,500 rpm WOT)
New replacement stator support with extra wide bushings installed

"Clutches, Steels And Pressure Plates"
4 Borg-Warner reverse/input clutches .078
4 Reverse/input "low drag" Turbulator steels .078
1 Reverse waved steel (eliminates the belleville spring that tears up the inside of the drum)
5 Borg-Warner forward clutches .070
5 Forward steels .090
2 Borg-Warner overrun clutches .078
2 Overrun steels .091
5 Borg-Warner low/reverse clutches .087
5 Low/reverse "low drag" Turbulator steels .068

Your choice of the Borg Warner Hi-Energy, 8 clutch setup for the 3-4 pack below,

8 Borg-Warner Hi-Energy 3-4 clutches .080
3 3-4 steels .060
5 3-4 Steels .076
1 3-4 top pressure plate .128
1 3-4 bottom apply pressure plate .225
1 3-4 snap ring .062


Borg Warner Late Modified dual cage 29 element sprag. "Exclusive"
GM "heat treated" sunshell
Borg-Warner low/reverse roller assembly (late design)
Trans-Go (Hi-Rev) replacement forward springs & 3-4 springs
Transtech paper & rubber (gasket) kit
Transmission filter (OEM)
Bushing kit with 3 teflon
Thrust washer kit
Sealing ring kit
HD Bearing kit
Borg-Warner Hi-Energy 2-4 band
Trans-Go Heavy Duty Shift kit, with .500 boost valve & w/accumulation for nice part throttle shifts
Vamac 3 lip rear seal
New steel molded rubber pistons for overrun, forward & 3-4
New aluminum 4th oem pin and accumulator piston
New aluminum "modified" 2nd accumulator piston for smoother part throttle shifts
New Sonnax pinless accumulator forward piston
New 2nd "hardened" (RC52) accumulator pin

I have a vette servo already.


Are there any parts of the kit that I should modify/change?

I was wondering if I should get the Beast shell or the Sonnax Smart Shell instead of GM heat treated?

10 vane vs 13 vane pump?

.490 boost valve vs .500?

Steel sleeved input drum, or will stock be fine?

Wide alto red band or is the BW high energy stock width band fine?

Just want a reliable DD good for towing with nice shifts. Might go to stock LQ9 with intake and headers at most.

Kemble

iTrader: (1)

My trans is still doing good at 246K miles. Its about 75% interstate driven, and has nothing but a vette servo.

offroadrider12

bump for input on the rebuild kit and my questions above.