That's a hp sucking 100 lbs heavier turd that isn't needed. Plus has a low first gear so lose a bunch off the line with them over a 4l60. I have 800rwhp going through a 700r4 and no issues when built right. Now not cheap to do when spending 600 bucks just on the sonnax hardened input drum with billet input shaft but it will live when built right and uses a about 15 percent less power then the 80 with all its heavy internal parts.

 

Thanks man, altho not really my first build, just first "high performance" build, but has been about 10-12 years since i was in one...... And most of that was teardowns for warranty, had to reassemble "properly" for core though so... I may take you up on those gear sets, ill shoot you an email later today or next week to let you know....

I looked for the classified on those and couldnt find it!!!

 

I doubt i will ever see more than maybe 450-500rwhp with this truck so, i am not overly pressed about spending $600 on an input drum,much less what ive seen billet input and output shafts go for.... I just want to shock the hell out of some of the mustangs that run around here thinking they got something, be a real eye opener getting pulled on by a lifted fullsize truck on 35s, although im considering dropping down to a set of lighter 33" tires....

 

accumulator piston was $10.43

vette servo was $16.63

shipping was $6.72

 

Not bad....

 

wow i must say that was some really fast shipping, i had them yesterday. guess we forgot to check the mail Friday so we brought in Fridays mail yesterday then i guess later Saturday the mail went and it was in the mail box.

 

Cant argue with that, i have a bad habit of ordering stuff on friday and get screwed on that whole 2 day shipping deal...

 

Ok guys especially thise that do this for a living, gettin ready to mark and drill my separator plate. I have a factory plate that came with valve body and a transgo, which should i use? Considering im using the torlon checkballs. secondly the sonnax instructions say to drill 2nd and 3rd clutch holes to .086" or for max perf .093". Should i just drill these to .093"?? Its not a race car but as i remember, the more fluid the faster/harder the shift and themore holding power. How much of a difference would there really be between .086 and .093?? Main reason i ask is i only wanna do this once and not have to pull valve body once trans is in..... I want quick, firm, crisp shifts not necessarily looking to chirp tires or break traction on shifts.....Just want a trans that will last more than 40-50,000 miles!!!

 

I absolutely consider a 4L80E MANDITORY over 350-400 RWHP in a truck. Good luck keeping that 700r4 alive. 4L80E eats a little more power BUT it is NOWHERE near 15% more. The 700R4 eats a good 15% itself.

 

Pretty much when/If i kill this trans, mostly likely gonna swap in a 4l80e, after all theres a reason that gm didnt put a 4l60e/700r4 m30 behind 8.1,454, 6.5 or 6.6, anything that made any real torque....or was used fr any sort of load... Hell, ive seen 4.8 vans with 4l80's in them!!!