Hey guys, I'm currently rebuilding a 2006 4l60e with 210k miles. It lost 3-4 on the interstate, and just slipped into neutral basically. Reverse and 1&2 worked good, but transmission had a rough grinding noise you could hear.

Anyways the 3-4 clutches were absolutely toast, They were stuck together and had to be pryed apart. There is metal everywhere, the exterior of the input drum got roughed up from rotating with metal shavings floating around it.

Here is everything I'm doing so far. Let me know if I'm missing anything or something I should really check for PLEASE. Also here is a pic of some of the carnage.



TRANSTEC OVERHAUL KIT
NEW COMPLETE SET OF ALTO FRICTION LINED CLUTCH PLATES (NON RED-EAGLE)
NEW ALTO 3/4 CLUTCH 9 PLATE POWERPACK UPDATE KIT.
NEW COMPLETE SET OF STEEL PLATES (LESS PRESSURE PLATES)
NEW CARBONITE BAND.
NEW COMPLETE BUSHING KIT WITH TEFLON PUMP BUSHING.
NEW NATIONAL 3/4 BONDED RUBBER MOLDED PISTON.
NEW NATIONAL FORWARD BONDED RUBBER MOLDED PISTON.
NEW NATIONAL OVER-RUN BONDED RUBBER MOLDED PISTON.
NEW TRANSGO 46-PLT-96 VALVE BODY SEPARATOR PLATE.
NEW GM Solenoid kit with Harness
NEW Harnded Sun Shell
NEW Torque Converter
NEW BORGE WARNER SPRAGS
NEW SONNAX PINLESS ACCUMULATORS
NEW Corvette Servo
NEW FlexPlate


Thanks for reading and any advice, I'm currently bored waiting on parts lol.

 

No. Don’t. Just don’t.

It’s not going to last no matter you or anyone else does.

 

I mean, in its defense it lasted 210k 🤷‍♀️

 

This transmission has done amazing. Why won’t it last. It’s currently in a little Jeep Wrangler, it’s not taking a beating anymore. It came out of my truck lol.

The case is perfect, the valve body is perfect. May just need a hard part here and there like a drum

 

I put it through hell, 35 inch tires off-roading and driving like a bat out of hell. I’m impressed with it.

 

Not sure if those clutches you mentioned are any good. You might wanna ask over on LS1Tech side of the website. MaroonMonsterLS1 and Vorteciroc Chime in pretty often on this type of stuff.

I know MaroonMonsterLS1 is on here too just not sure how often he logs in. Perhaps he can point you towards a good recipe.

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...terls1-243088/

 

TRANSTEC OVERHAUL KIT
NEW COMPLETE SET OF ALTO FRICTION LINED CLUTCH PLATES (NON RED-EAGLE) Use a Borg Warner friction module with 7 of the thin the thin .062-065 3/4 friction
NEW ALTO 3/4 CLUTCH 9 PLATE POWERPACK UPDATE KIT. No. It has more clutches, but is a downgrade from the 7 clutch. No I'm not kidding.
NEW COMPLETE SET OF STEEL PLATES (LESS PRESSURE PLATES)
NEW CARBONITE BAND.
NEW COMPLETE BUSHING KIT WITH TEFLON PUMP BUSHING.
NEW NATIONAL 3/4 BONDED RUBBER MOLDED PISTON.
NEW NATIONAL FORWARD BONDED RUBBER MOLDED PISTON.
NEW NATIONAL OVER-RUN BONDED RUBBER MOLDED PISTON.
NEW TRANSGO 46-PLT-96 VALVE BODY SEPARATOR PLATE.
NEW GM Solenoid kit with Harness
NEW Harnded Sun Shell
NEW Torque Converter
NEW BORGE WARNER SPRAGS
NEW SONNAX PINLESS ACCUMULATORS Can if you want...but it's a big waste of money. Just block the 4th accumulator with a setscrew, throw away the piston, then take the 4th accumulator spring and put it in the 1-2 accumulator opposite of the stock 1-2 spring. So you will stack it up.....separator plate-->spring-->piston-->spring-->housing
NEW Corvette Servo
NEW FlexPlate If yours is cracked or warped...sure. Otherwise I don't see the point.



Also, I'd like to add that you said "the valve body is perfect" and I'll almost guarantee with 210k miles that isn't true. It is an aluminum housing that is incredibly prone to bore wear and leaks.
I've posted build lists on this forum and ls1tech before. Pretty well detailing a laundry list of things to do to the valve body/pump that make for a really solid setup.

Also...you'll want to leak-test your input drum. They often have big leaks around the input shaft where it press fits into the aluminum housing. If it leaks...press it out, coat liberally with loctite 648, then press back in. Make sure you are properly supporting the drum when doing so. You need to support it by the center when pressing back in. A large socket usually works fine as a stand for it. Do not just set it on the drum outer edges and start to press. You'll be asking for trouble

 

Thank you for that advice, I'm going to be doing everything you suggested. I'm sure your right about the valve body also, It just looked great compared to everything else in the transmission lol.

Also On the flex plate, I've got an awful grinding noise when starting the jeep. I swapped the 5.3/4l60e from my truck to jeep. There is metal shavings in the bellhousing from starter and flexplate. I dont understand why this is happening so I'm hoping its my problem, already replaced the starter with an ac delco pro.

 

sonnax and transgo both make o-ring end plugs
they both also make reverse abuse bore plugs.
Both are super common wear locations

Fitzall makes an easy TCC Reg valve that has o rings to fix the worn bore

if the AFL is worn out, central valve bodies makes a drop in valve...or you can get the transgo reamer and valve setup. It's affordable.

if this is a performance build there is other stuff you can do also

 

I bought all of those parts you suggested, Seems like good insurance. I really appreciate your advice.

It is not a performance build at all. Its behind a stock 5.3 with same miles. In a jeep wrangler. (5.3 and 4l60e are from my truck)