4l60e plain and simple.
12-30-2012, 08:23 PM
#11
the reverse input drum is different than the input drum. The reverse input is the drum that goes over the input drum and shaft. Its the machined drum that the band goes around and applies to. It develops a very small dip in the middle after use, especially after your 150K miles or so. Putting a new band on an old drum will not allow proper contact in the middle of the band, especially if you got a wide band. It only contacts the outer edges and can result in your symptoms.
12-30-2012, 08:40 PM
#13
With having a repeated failure I would be concerned with what line pressure is doing when in 3rd gear. The pump IMO is a very important part for these units plus a good clean valve body. Not sure what you did with the input drum but I do not use the bleed orifice that comes in the kit. I personally feel its to much of a bleed in the drum.
There are also other things that need to be done with these builds that make a good tight hydraulic system. I like to use the viton D ring seals on the servo pistons, add abuse plugs from sonnax to the valve body, check the AFL bore for wear, make sure the PR valve bore is good and also use a sonnax boost valve with orings.
Sometimes its more than just the parts but its more of what in the recipe. Recently I have been using the sonnax hp shift improvement kit in my builds and have been getting away from the TG kit. Also I always instal an oversize pr valve in the pump and machine all my pumps. Also if you have not done this in your previous builds you might want to look into replacing the solenoids especially the EPC solenoid. Hope this helps some. Vince
There are also other things that need to be done with these builds that make a good tight hydraulic system. I like to use the viton D ring seals on the servo pistons, add abuse plugs from sonnax to the valve body, check the AFL bore for wear, make sure the PR valve bore is good and also use a sonnax boost valve with orings.
Sometimes its more than just the parts but its more of what in the recipe. Recently I have been using the sonnax hp shift improvement kit in my builds and have been getting away from the TG kit. Also I always instal an oversize pr valve in the pump and machine all my pumps. Also if you have not done this in your previous builds you might want to look into replacing the solenoids especially the EPC solenoid. Hope this helps some. Vince
12-30-2012, 08:53 PM
#14
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06- ill def be checking mine out. But from what I remember it didn't look that bad.
Vince- we changed all the solenoids but that one I believe! But we will check everything you mention to the T!
Vince- we changed all the solenoids but that one I believe! But we will check everything you mention to the T!
Last edited by Vince B; 12-30-2012 at 09:35 PM. Reason: non-sponsor question
12-30-2012, 10:21 PM
#15
check the span of the drum with some sort of straight edge. And check everything Vince said. I just completed a full blown 4L65E build and he was a lot of help.
01-03-2013, 07:33 PM
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Well we pulled the trans out of my truck and apart. 3/4 clutches were toast again. We pressure tested the input drum and shaft and had a little seepage. Reverse input drum looked fine and checked flat, and band looked good. (carbon band) we then pulled the valve body apart it was clean, holes drilled .093. Pulled pump apart and rotor looked good. We do have a transgo boost valve in there. But stock pump spring. And stock washers/shims in the pump. It all looked and checked flat.
Since this last rebuild I've been chasing a vibration and has gotten slightly worse... The 4 pinion planetary had 10 little cracks in it, the bigger cracks were going into the oil holes. Everything else looked good besides the 3/4 clutches and planetary.
We called Dana, and took advice from Vince and found another drum and shaft. We stacked a setup in it with the stock bleed orfice in the drum (old drum had transgo orfice) and it didn't leak a drop with 150 lbs of air.
Long story short Dana is sending us a 3/4 clutch pack setup, a new separator plate told us to leave it .082, new shaft seals that he's been using, and a new epc solenoid and some instructions to block off some of the holes in the separator plate like Vince also said, along with a different pump spring and some kind of new washer/shim for the pump.(not sure what they are called). Putting all this in a new drum and shaft.
Gonna also switch from dex 6 back to good ol' dex 3. That stuff lasted 154,000 miles without being changed fwiw. Flushed cooler and converter. Both were fairly clean fwiw. I've got my fingers crossed along with toes when it gies back together in the next few days.
Since this last rebuild I've been chasing a vibration and has gotten slightly worse... The 4 pinion planetary had 10 little cracks in it, the bigger cracks were going into the oil holes. Everything else looked good besides the 3/4 clutches and planetary.
We called Dana, and took advice from Vince and found another drum and shaft. We stacked a setup in it with the stock bleed orfice in the drum (old drum had transgo orfice) and it didn't leak a drop with 150 lbs of air.
Long story short Dana is sending us a 3/4 clutch pack setup, a new separator plate told us to leave it .082, new shaft seals that he's been using, and a new epc solenoid and some instructions to block off some of the holes in the separator plate like Vince also said, along with a different pump spring and some kind of new washer/shim for the pump.(not sure what they are called). Putting all this in a new drum and shaft.
Gonna also switch from dex 6 back to good ol' dex 3. That stuff lasted 154,000 miles without being changed fwiw. Flushed cooler and converter. Both were fairly clean fwiw. I've got my fingers crossed along with toes when it gies back together in the next few days.
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