4L60E upgrade?
02-29-2012, 03:27 PM
#1
4L60E upgrade?
What can be done to a transmission stated above to make it stronger? The reason I asked a friend of mine is a tranny guy and I asked him he would do besides the 5 pinion carrier bearing to the trans to upgrade to a 65E. I asked will u use a shift kit he said no that's for people who don't know what they are doing, is this true? He works at Chevy so I know he wouldnt be using performance parts just factory parts would this suffice? Thanks for help if I don't make sense let me know and I will try to clarify the questions, just has 3 hrs of sleep in last 2 days.
02-29-2012, 03:37 PM
#2
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I don't really know any "tranny" guys that work at a dealership that actually "build" versus just swapping a complete unit.
This way the parts & labor can be warrantied as nothing was "modified".
I'd find a second opinion but that's just me. You may want to let us know what you're trying to achieve as well as the main usage of your truck.
This way the parts & labor can be warrantied as nothing was "modified".
I'd find a second opinion but that's just me. You may want to let us know what you're trying to achieve as well as the main usage of your truck.
02-29-2012, 06:03 PM
#3
Tell you what if he is not going to use a shift kit, ask him what he is going to do to clean up the shifts and if he will modify the pressures any? Then ask him how he is going to achieve this. I myself have been around transmissions for 20+ years and have met some excellent techs over the years. I hope the guy your using is one of them and understands the balance in these units.
I myself use a sleeved input drum with the billet aluminum over run piston I designed, new bonded pistons for the 3-4/ forward clutch, aluminum accumulator pistons, torlon check *****, new factory separator plate, beast shell with a bearing and custom low roller race, vet 2nd servo, viton servo rings, added 3-4 clutches, wide band, some sonnax parts in the valve body, modified TG kit, wide bushings, sonnax boost valve, sonnax over sized PR valve and a machined pump in just about every performance unit I build. In some builds depending on the vehicle I like to use a billet output shaft and also a billet pump rotor. I'm sure there are a few things I left off the list but ask him if any of this will be used! Best of luck with your build. HTH Vince
I myself use a sleeved input drum with the billet aluminum over run piston I designed, new bonded pistons for the 3-4/ forward clutch, aluminum accumulator pistons, torlon check *****, new factory separator plate, beast shell with a bearing and custom low roller race, vet 2nd servo, viton servo rings, added 3-4 clutches, wide band, some sonnax parts in the valve body, modified TG kit, wide bushings, sonnax boost valve, sonnax over sized PR valve and a machined pump in just about every performance unit I build. In some builds depending on the vehicle I like to use a billet output shaft and also a billet pump rotor. I'm sure there are a few things I left off the list but ask him if any of this will be used! Best of luck with your build. HTH Vince
02-29-2012, 07:40 PM
#6
I don't really know any "tranny" guys that work at a dealership that actually "build" versus just swapping a complete unit.
This way the parts & labor can be warrantied as nothing was "modified".
I'd find a second opinion but that's just me. You may want to let us know what you're trying to achieve as well as the main usage of your truck.
This way the parts & labor can be warrantied as nothing was "modified".
I'd find a second opinion but that's just me. You may want to let us know what you're trying to achieve as well as the main usage of your truck.
.
02-29-2012, 07:58 PM
#7
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Tell you what if he is not going to use a shift kit, ask him what he is going to do to clean up the shifts and if he will modify the pressures any? Then ask him how he is going to achieve this. I myself have been around transmissions for 20+ years and have met some excellent techs over the years. I hope the guy your using is one of them and understands the balance in these units.
I myself use a sleeved input drum with the billet aluminum over run piston I designed, new bonded pistons for the 3-4/ forward clutch, aluminum accumulator pistons, torlon check *****, new factory separator plate, beast shell with a bearing and custom low roller race, vet 2nd servo, viton servo rings, added 3-4 clutches, wide band, some sonnax parts in the valve body, modified TG kit, wide bushings, sonnax boost valve, sonnax over sized PR valve and a machined pump in just about every performance unit I build. In some builds depending on the vehicle I like to use a billet output shaft and also a billet pump rotor. I'm sure there are a few things I left off the list but ask him if any of this will be used! Best of luck with your build. HTH Vince
I myself use a sleeved input drum with the billet aluminum over run piston I designed, new bonded pistons for the 3-4/ forward clutch, aluminum accumulator pistons, torlon check *****, new factory separator plate, beast shell with a bearing and custom low roller race, vet 2nd servo, viton servo rings, added 3-4 clutches, wide band, some sonnax parts in the valve body, modified TG kit, wide bushings, sonnax boost valve, sonnax over sized PR valve and a machined pump in just about every performance unit I build. In some builds depending on the vehicle I like to use a billet output shaft and also a billet pump rotor. I'm sure there are a few things I left off the list but ask him if any of this will be used! Best of luck with your build. HTH Vince
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02-29-2012, 08:50 PM
#8
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I built my own, it holds my mid 11 second nitrous truck no problem. I used these parts
Trans go hd2
Wide carbon 2-4 band
5 pinion front and rear planetaries
Wide double caged sprag
I used the Borg Warner clutches and the zpak 3-4 clutch assembly but not sure it's any better than just adding 2 clutches and running the koleen steels
Beast sun shell
Vette servo
It is holding up well, and made the 1200 mile round trip to San Antonio and ran 11.50.
Trans go hd2
Wide carbon 2-4 band
5 pinion front and rear planetaries
Wide double caged sprag
I used the Borg Warner clutches and the zpak 3-4 clutch assembly but not sure it's any better than just adding 2 clutches and running the koleen steels
Beast sun shell
Vette servo
It is holding up well, and made the 1200 mile round trip to San Antonio and ran 11.50.
02-29-2012, 11:32 PM
#10
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I got the parts locally at Oklahoma transmission supply. Cost around 400-500 dollars for everything. It took me two days to build it in the evening after work.
As far as my experience goes, this was my first trans build so I bought the manual. It was very helpful. I have built many race cars and street cars, and built many engines but never dove into a transmission any further than a valve body here and there. I didn't have any special tools. I used the case to re align the pump halves. When I replaced the Teflon rings on the shaft, they got pretty stretched out so I used nitrous to freeze them up and they shrunk enough to work. It's tedious work for sure. But if you are very careful, and do one section at a time, it's not too bad. Very intimidating and can be frustrating.
As far as my experience goes, this was my first trans build so I bought the manual. It was very helpful. I have built many race cars and street cars, and built many engines but never dove into a transmission any further than a valve body here and there. I didn't have any special tools. I used the case to re align the pump halves. When I replaced the Teflon rings on the shaft, they got pretty stretched out so I used nitrous to freeze them up and they shrunk enough to work. It's tedious work for sure. But if you are very careful, and do one section at a time, it's not too bad. Very intimidating and can be frustrating.