GM Drivetrain & Suspension Chassis | Transmission| Driveshaft | Gears/Rear End/Differential | Traction Aids

4l80 swap help please

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Old 09-26-2016 | 12:18 PM
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From: springfield MO
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that makes sense. I will start with this and work from there. Unfortunatly I am at work... Ha but will do this tonight.
I have my laptop so I will get it changed over then hook it up. I believe I will only need a write changes (or what ever) not a write full?
Old 09-26-2016 | 12:21 PM
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From: Somewhere north of 285, south of 985.
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Originally Posted by custom 68
that makes sense. I will start with this and work from there. Unfortunatly I am at work... Ha but will do this tonight.
I have my laptop so I will get it changed over then hook it up. I believe I will only need a write changes (or what ever) not a write full?
Correct,

You only do a write full on the initial OS write. Changes from that point forward are changes only.
Old 09-26-2016 | 12:40 PM
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From: springfield MO
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just wanted to verify.
Old 09-26-2016 | 04:35 PM
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From: springfield MO
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my other question is on the stall converter. It is a 2300 billet lock converter. That said how loose should it feel? My main issue may just be the shifting however when I tried to get this going it felt like it is "slipping" From what I understood I didn't think it would have that much slip. I am afraid to give it much gas in case I would hurt something...
Any thoughts on that?
thanks
Dave
Old 09-26-2016 | 06:12 PM
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From: Somewhere north of 285, south of 985.
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It really depends Dave.

How a converter operates is also dependent upon how heavy the vehicle is and torque output.

A 2300 stall in one vehicle may be a 28-2900 stall in another. How the converter was built also plays a factor.

Just be easy on it. If you're mashing the gas and it's just not moving, then have it looked at. If you're driving and you mash the gas and it's revving more than its moving, it could be a loose converter. Verify fluid when hot and post back. We'll get it figured out.
Old 09-26-2016 | 07:04 PM
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From: springfield MO
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I'm gonna go out and start thanks for the confidence. Lol. I also question the dipstick so I found the fluid level should be 2 inches down from where the tube seats in. I'm going to let it warm up and manually confirm this with a rule. You are right we will get it
Originally Posted by madmann26
It really depends Dave.

How a converter operates is also dependent upon how heavy the vehicle is and torque output.

A 2300 stall in one vehicle may be a 28-2900 stall in another. How the converter was built also plays a factor.

Just be easy on it. If you're mashing the gas and it's just not moving, then have it looked at. If you're driving and you mash the gas and it's revving more than its moving, it could be a loose converter. Verify fluid when hot and post back. We'll get it figured out.
Old 09-26-2016 | 08:19 PM
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From: springfield MO
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madmann you have been so patient. Ok here is where I am, all seems to be working but I need to work on my shift points. It still shifts very quickly thru the gears and they are a gentle shift if that make sense. But when the TCC locks up you can tell. I am including a log. I am rolling then stop and break torque it up some and it does stall up nicely then after it goes it shifts to second and it is almost feels like it slips because you can barely tell it shifts and that may be the converter. Then 3rd and immediatly locks the TCC and stays locked when it shifts to 4th.
I will include the tune and the log but I am going to look thru to see what makes sense on my part. I never did get on it hard but enough to get it going.
again thanks for all your input.
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Old 09-26-2016 | 08:50 PM
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Something else to address in this tune, it's not setup for speed density either. MAF fail high needs to be set to 0hz and your DTC's need to be on first error for speed density tuning. Remove the MAF channels to, you don't want them in a speed density setup.

MAF fail at 65,000hz and No MIL light are incorrect settings for SD.
Old 09-26-2016 | 09:01 PM
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From: springfield MO
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thank you for reminding me and catching that. I had this 2 bar tune for a while but HPTuners suggested I go back to the original one for the segment swap so I went way back in time and did it off my"original" and now I am playing catch up. i will correct that. I have been working to get the swap done and thought this part would be easy but so far it has fought me. I had not planned on resetting up all the SD stuff.
Dave
Old 09-26-2016 | 09:31 PM
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From: springfield MO
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that raises another question FFDP I have set the fail to 0 but on the MIL the P0101, 102 and 103 should all be set to first error?
what "channels" do I remove?



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