4L80E to Powerglide?
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4L80E to Powerglide?
Well, I have been bouncing the idea of going to a glid in my truck for a while.
My 63 pick up weighed in at 3,840 with me in it last time it went down the track. At that weight with 430rwhp, 4,900 converter (what it was flashing to off the foot brake) 3.73's and a 30" tire, it went a best of 11.96 @ 113 with several 12.0x's to back it up in second gear converter locked at 7,000.
Now, I should have aprox 300lbs out of the truck:
Glass front end (140lbs)
Removed extra heavy tailgate (100lbs [I added this to an extra gate I had])
Removed bench seat for some race seats (60lbs)
Removed tow hitch (35lbs)
Removed Brake booster (10-15lbs)
Putting in mild steel 6 point (?lbs)
With that I should be down to lets say a 3,550 race weight (Me in the truck).
I also added 4.56 and going from a 30x14.50 ET street to a 315/60/15 ET drag radial.
Running the numbers, the existing set up would look like this:
3rd unlocked = 135mph @ 7,400rpm
3rd locked = 145mph @ 7,400rpm
60mph cruise in 4rth verter locked = 2,300rpm
Glide would change my cruise and not give me a lock up..
60mph cruise in 2nd = 3,050rpm
I have put 0 miles on the truck in over a year, mainly because it has been down. But to tell you the truth, even if it was running, I would't be driving it around a ton right now. Most of my driving in it is on farm roads going to the store or the local hang out since I am in the country, no need to go over 50-60mph.
So that is the only real disadvantage that I see.
Here are the reasons I am thinking about it:
It will make hooking even easier since it has a tall 1st. I have a feeling that is going to become a problem once I start spraying out of the hole. (2 stage 100 hit on the first stage, 20 hit on the second. I would love to spray the 200 out of the gate and get on the other 100 before the 60 foot mark).
Less weight and roatating mass.
Strong and reliable (the 4L80E is not always right on the shifts).
Another thing to think about is, the motor had no problem pulling to 7,400 with a factory LS6 and ported TB, I'm sure if I did a little tweaking to the tune it would make 7,600-7,800 (138-142mph) no problem with the Super Vic / Dominator that is on it now.
It sounds like I am trying to talk myself in to it, but what does everyone else think?
My 63 pick up weighed in at 3,840 with me in it last time it went down the track. At that weight with 430rwhp, 4,900 converter (what it was flashing to off the foot brake) 3.73's and a 30" tire, it went a best of 11.96 @ 113 with several 12.0x's to back it up in second gear converter locked at 7,000.
Now, I should have aprox 300lbs out of the truck:
Glass front end (140lbs)
Removed extra heavy tailgate (100lbs [I added this to an extra gate I had])
Removed bench seat for some race seats (60lbs)
Removed tow hitch (35lbs)
Removed Brake booster (10-15lbs)
Putting in mild steel 6 point (?lbs)
With that I should be down to lets say a 3,550 race weight (Me in the truck).
I also added 4.56 and going from a 30x14.50 ET street to a 315/60/15 ET drag radial.
Running the numbers, the existing set up would look like this:
3rd unlocked = 135mph @ 7,400rpm
3rd locked = 145mph @ 7,400rpm
60mph cruise in 4rth verter locked = 2,300rpm
Glide would change my cruise and not give me a lock up..
60mph cruise in 2nd = 3,050rpm
I have put 0 miles on the truck in over a year, mainly because it has been down. But to tell you the truth, even if it was running, I would't be driving it around a ton right now. Most of my driving in it is on farm roads going to the store or the local hang out since I am in the country, no need to go over 50-60mph.
So that is the only real disadvantage that I see.
Here are the reasons I am thinking about it:
It will make hooking even easier since it has a tall 1st. I have a feeling that is going to become a problem once I start spraying out of the hole. (2 stage 100 hit on the first stage, 20 hit on the second. I would love to spray the 200 out of the gate and get on the other 100 before the 60 foot mark).
Less weight and roatating mass.
Strong and reliable (the 4L80E is not always right on the shifts).
Another thing to think about is, the motor had no problem pulling to 7,400 with a factory LS6 and ported TB, I'm sure if I did a little tweaking to the tune it would make 7,600-7,800 (138-142mph) no problem with the Super Vic / Dominator that is on it now.
It sounds like I am trying to talk myself in to it, but what does everyone else think?
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You have it right to me since with a glide you want a high stall, but you maybe a touch high. 4900 rpm is a bit better for the 3.73's, but with 4.56 you may just burn the tires up. I would try 4000 myself to get rolling a bit before the convertor starts to hit its "lock up" spot.
With high stalls and not ability to lock them up driving bellow "lock up" will kill your transmission with all the extra heat.
With high stalls and not ability to lock them up driving bellow "lock up" will kill your transmission with all the extra heat.
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L7, I hear what your saying. Keep in mind though the truck has a 30" tall tire on it. It had no problem hooking that on the motor with the 4,900 stall. The 3.73/4L80E technically is shorter geared than the 4.56/PW set up. 3.73/80E @ 7,400 in first would be 60mph, where the 4.56/PW combo would be 74-77mph depending on the first ratio. That's one of the reasons I think I could get on the unit sooner.
I'd also probably drop the verter quite a bit, probably 3,500-3,800 knowing it's going to have gobs of TQ with the N20..
I'd also probably drop the verter quite a bit, probably 3,500-3,800 knowing it's going to have gobs of TQ with the N20..
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go for it, in my experiences with the glides, u need a converter to get them out of the hole, but they are exceptionally more consistent when bracket racing compared to 3 speeds, shifting once is nice
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