4L80e pump issue
#1
4L80e pump issue
OK guys,
If I had not already spent two days searching I wouldn't ask. But I really need to get my truck back together in a bad way.
Problem: Truck is a 2003 1500hd ccsb. While motor is out of the truck I am in the middle of replacing the stock TC for a Yank billet triple disk 3400 truck converter. Instructions from Yank is to pull pump and add red spring and may have to grind on the shaft. Trans is still in truck so I climbed in, removed pump bolts and pump just came out no problem at all... input shaft and all connected to a drum looking thing with gears inside... All the pics I have come up with shows the shaft still in the trans.
Did I just screw up?
Everything is still in one piece or (unit) and did not separate pump halves.... yet. Was thinking about doing the front seal drain back mod.
The red spring went right in and the rolled pin was a pita to get back in... Should I pull it back apart and grind the lip off the shaft? I did pick up a paper pump gasket and a seal at the dealer parts counter. Should I pull the shaft out of the pump to replace the front seal or can I wiggle this seal out and back on with the shaft thru the pump? and last, is it really necessary to open the seal drain hole and to what size is sufficient? If I do need to pull the shaft out of the pump, is there any other parts I need to replace like seals or o-rings and such while doing this? The trans worked fine and didn't miss a beat before I pulled the motor and would like to keep it that way...
I have built many motors in the past but this is the first time I have seen the inside of a trans that wasn't spread all over the ground and down the street!
Thanks for any info...
If I had not already spent two days searching I wouldn't ask. But I really need to get my truck back together in a bad way.
Problem: Truck is a 2003 1500hd ccsb. While motor is out of the truck I am in the middle of replacing the stock TC for a Yank billet triple disk 3400 truck converter. Instructions from Yank is to pull pump and add red spring and may have to grind on the shaft. Trans is still in truck so I climbed in, removed pump bolts and pump just came out no problem at all... input shaft and all connected to a drum looking thing with gears inside... All the pics I have come up with shows the shaft still in the trans.
Did I just screw up?
Everything is still in one piece or (unit) and did not separate pump halves.... yet. Was thinking about doing the front seal drain back mod.
The red spring went right in and the rolled pin was a pita to get back in... Should I pull it back apart and grind the lip off the shaft? I did pick up a paper pump gasket and a seal at the dealer parts counter. Should I pull the shaft out of the pump to replace the front seal or can I wiggle this seal out and back on with the shaft thru the pump? and last, is it really necessary to open the seal drain hole and to what size is sufficient? If I do need to pull the shaft out of the pump, is there any other parts I need to replace like seals or o-rings and such while doing this? The trans worked fine and didn't miss a beat before I pulled the motor and would like to keep it that way...
I have built many motors in the past but this is the first time I have seen the inside of a trans that wasn't spread all over the ground and down the street!
Thanks for any info...
#2
OK, So a member contacted me and said I may have to pull the trans in order to properly reinstall the input shat / OD unit. When I removed the pump to install the red spring from Yank into the pump, I failed to remove the o-ring on the front shaft that allows the pump to slip over and off the input shaft leaving the OD unit in the trans... Has anybody experienced this? Did you have to pull the trans and invert it in order to properly line it up?
#3
oh yeah, he also said its not necessary to drill out the front seal drain back hole... I read somewhere that people where blowing the front seal out due to the higher line pressure created by the red spring install... Any thoughts?
#4
Get whoever is helping you to post in this thread. Giving you info via PM rather than sharing with the forum not only makes it harder for the rest of us to help you, it doesn't help anyone else down the road with the same issue...
Generally if it's in a Private Message it's not intended for general discussion or introduction into a general discussion and this thread is a very general discussion lol.
Generally if it's in a Private Message it's not intended for general discussion or introduction into a general discussion and this thread is a very general discussion lol.
#5
Yeah... Good luck with that. After 2 days and almost 150 looks I'd figure somebody would jump in... I know people are busy but if ya don't know, you don't know... After 3 days of reading conflicting stories I figured I might get a response. I cant be the only one.
On a different note------>Suburbazine, I see Geoff tuned your truck. How did that work out for ya? Recommend him? I used one of his cams a little bigger but not much than yours...
On a different note------>Suburbazine, I see Geoff tuned your truck. How did that work out for ya? Recommend him? I used one of his cams a little bigger but not much than yours...
#6
Yeah, there's only a few members here who deal with transmission questions on a regular basis. Most of us won't say anything because we don't know enough about it.
As far as Geoff, he did a spectacular tune. Engine runs great off the line and great up top. He even got me into lockup at 20MPH so I could get around town without attracting too much attention. And it's SMOOTH. I got it retuned and dyno'd last week and while it only made 314rwhp on paper, that's a super conservative number because of the converter.
As far as Geoff, he did a spectacular tune. Engine runs great off the line and great up top. He even got me into lockup at 20MPH so I could get around town without attracting too much attention. And it's SMOOTH. I got it retuned and dyno'd last week and while it only made 314rwhp on paper, that's a super conservative number because of the converter.
#7
1. I would pull the trans to properly install the parts that you removed and to get everything to line up properly so your not fighting gravity.
2. Without seeing the instructions, I am sure there is a reason why they tell you to grind a portion of the shaft. I believe it has to do with the spring hanging up on that lip they tell you to grind off. So Yes I would follow the instructions.
3. I don't know anything about the Drain hole mod so I can't help you there. If it's in the instructions then do it.
2. Without seeing the instructions, I am sure there is a reason why they tell you to grind a portion of the shaft. I believe it has to do with the spring hanging up on that lip they tell you to grind off. So Yes I would follow the instructions.
3. I don't know anything about the Drain hole mod so I can't help you there. If it's in the instructions then do it.
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#8
Yeah, there's only a few members here who deal with transmission questions on a regular basis. Most of us won't say anything because we don't know enough about it.
As far as Geoff, he did a spectacular tune. Engine runs great off the line and great up top. He even got me into lockup at 20MPH so I could get around town without attracting too much attention. And it's SMOOTH. I got it retuned and dyno'd last week and while it only made 314rwhp on paper, that's a super conservative number because of the converter.
As far as Geoff, he did a spectacular tune. Engine runs great off the line and great up top. He even got me into lockup at 20MPH so I could get around town without attracting too much attention. And it's SMOOTH. I got it retuned and dyno'd last week and while it only made 314rwhp on paper, that's a super conservative number because of the converter.
I went with the Yank HD truck triple disk 3400 stall converter hoping it wouldn't be to much for the street and or kill my trailer towing abilities. How does yours do with all that stall?
1. I would pull the trans to properly install the parts that you removed and to get everything to line up properly so your not fighting gravity.
2. Without seeing the instructions, I am sure there is a reason why they tell you to grind a portion of the shaft. I believe it has to do with the spring hanging up on that lip they tell you to grind off. So Yes I would follow the instructions.
3. I don't know anything about the Drain hole mod so I can't help you there. If it's in the instructions then do it.
2. Without seeing the instructions, I am sure there is a reason why they tell you to grind a portion of the shaft. I believe it has to do with the spring hanging up on that lip they tell you to grind off. So Yes I would follow the instructions.
3. I don't know anything about the Drain hole mod so I can't help you there. If it's in the instructions then do it.
#9
Mine is phenomenal with all this stall. It's SUPER loose though, city driving fuel mileage is nonexistent if in stop-n-go traffic. As far as towing goes, I've taken a 6000lb trailer about 45 miles without any issues. Does get warm fast if not in lockup though lol. The triple disc is my saving grace, I've had 2 single disc converters self destruct under lesser loads.
This Vigilante won't even really start pulling until I'm over 2000rpm, it will flash to 4500 easy and haul *** off the line though.
This Vigilante won't even really start pulling until I'm over 2000rpm, it will flash to 4500 easy and haul *** off the line though.
#10
Mine is phenomenal with all this stall. It's SUPER loose though, city driving fuel mileage is nonexistent if in stop-n-go traffic. As far as towing goes, I've taken a 6000lb trailer about 45 miles without any issues. Does get warm fast if not in lockup though lol. The triple disc is my saving grace, I've had 2 single disc converters self destruct under lesser loads.
This Vigilante won't even really start pulling until I'm over 2000rpm, it will flash to 4500 easy and haul *** off the line though.
This Vigilante won't even really start pulling until I'm over 2000rpm, it will flash to 4500 easy and haul *** off the line though.
Well I ended up pulling the piston back out of the pump and grinding lip off the shaft till smooth. Then reinstalled it with the red spring inside the stock spring and put it back together. It was a real trick getting the over drive unit to slide back into its groove. No way was it going while trans was in the truck! So I pulled it, held it inverted with my engine puller crane, oiled it up real good with trans fluid and slipped it in turning it ever so slightly until it dropped down to where it should go... The first couple times I sat the trans pump in place but the bolts would not reach the holes ( pump to high) because overdrive unit was not seated down in its proper place. I tapped on it with a rubber mallet and tried to lean on it with my weight but it wasn't going until I repositioned the overdrive unit. When I finally figured out the OD unit was still high I just wiggled it and turned until it fell into place. Then the pump just dropped down with a fresh new pump gasket of course and bolted it right up using a star pastern and 18 ft lbs torque.
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