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4l80E Rebuild Thread

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Old 09-15-2007, 05:00 PM
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Cool. I need to pick up a tranny holder and mount and get started. I need to also pick up the 4th lip seal installer. I drained the fluid out of mine yesterday. It was actually in pretty good condition... no burnt smell. I'm hoping I have the updated roller clutch / turbine shaft. My tranny is a 2001... we'll see. I wish Autometer made a Cobalt tranny pressure gauge.... hehehehe

Thanks for the update.
Bill
Old 09-16-2007, 09:23 AM
  #42  
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The pin fixed it! I ground the pin down to 1.310", I was going for 1.315" but it ended up a little shorter once I finished. Shifts are 10 times better now. I still want to check the pressures just to know what they are running. I'll have to drive it awhile before I decide to keep it like this or shorten the pin some more. At least it doesn't feel like I'm being rearended during my 1-2 shift anymore.

You know, you could probably do the rebuild without the holding fixture, if you have plenty of workbench space. The 4l80E is one heavy MF though, so I'm glad I bought the holding fixture.
Old 11-30-2008, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Vince @ FLT
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I'm not sure if your book tells the proper location of this snap ring. Take it and put it at the 3 o'clock position. Basically a 180* from where you have it. The reason for this is with a wider snap ring it will rub the direct drum(high reverse drum). When the intermediate clutch is applied the pressure plate will flex that snap ring and it will rub with it in the position that you have it. Looks like you are having a lot fun. Enjoy!!! Vince

Hi guys,

Excellent read !

Can someone please explain to me how the snap ring would work better spun 180*

If it's a round ring how can it make a difference .

Wouldn't it sit exactly the same , no matter what clock position the split was at?

Sorry if it's a dumb question, I'm new to this sort of thing.

cheers

Last edited by Stelth; 11-30-2008 at 07:45 AM.
Old 11-30-2008, 12:15 PM
  #44  
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The snap ring will rub on the direct drum! That is why I pointed it out. When I see this it is usually done because the guy building the trans did not have a lot of experience building. With the factory snap ring being narrow compared to the wide ring that most of us get in the transgo kit, it may or may not propose a problem.
Old 11-30-2008, 12:32 PM
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The manual actually shows it being installed in the position above, but as Vince pointed out, the g.m snap ring is thinner and may not cause an issue....
Old 11-30-2008, 01:46 PM
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nice write up! good job so how is it doing
Old 11-30-2008, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Vince @ FLT
The snap ring will rub on the direct drum! That is why I pointed it out. When I see this it is usually done because the guy building the trans did not have a lot of experience building. With the factory snap ring being narrow compared to the wide ring that most of us get in the transgo kit, it may or may not propose a problem.
I'm probably looking at the wrong thing but,

if the ring is the same width all round , how would rotating it give more clearance?

Apologies once again,

cheers
Old 11-30-2008, 10:04 PM
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The problem is that the opening of the snap ring in the wrong position will flex when the clutch pack is applied. When this happens it will hit the direct drum. Try it and see for yourself. It's true. Vince
Old 12-01-2008, 02:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Vince @ FLT
The problem is that the opening of the snap ring in the wrong position will flex when the clutch pack is applied. When this happens it will hit the direct drum. Try it and see for yourself. It's true. Vince
Ok , i get it now.

Thank you very much Vince for sharing that information.

You are a highly regarded member on these forums and was never questioning what you where saying.

I was just trying to work out how.

Keep up the good work ,

This is an awesome site with many helpful hands.

cheers
Old 05-15-2013, 09:48 AM
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I like your pics and approach to this this job. Are there any other special items required for this rebuild or any other special tools required?

Thanks


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