GM Drivetrain & Suspension Chassis | Transmission| Driveshaft | Gears/Rear End/Differential | Traction Aids

4L80e slipping after HD2 install

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Old 10-04-2013 | 02:57 PM
  #31  
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Just heard back and he says the fluid smells burnt... can't say I'm surprised.

They really haven't told me ****. They said its getting the correct signals from the PCM and then they unplug it nothing changes from a line pressure prospective. They tried a new pressure control solenoid in case the other was stuck, but that didn't work... They didn't even pull the valve body to look at our HD2 install.

This is exactly why its so frustrating trying to work with a local shop that 'knows what they're doing'. He's gonna want to do a $2400 rebuild, meanwhile he will have NO idea what is currently causing the low line pressure. If I opt NOT to go ahead with this rebuild I think it will still cost me $150 for his 'diagnostic' work, when he has literally shed no light on the problem and the truck is still appart. I literally wanted him to go over the work needed to install a HD2, and that hasn't nor will it be done.

Discouraging to say the very least.

He doesn't seem to convinced its to do with the HD2 install either, which bums me out. At the same time i don't really feel like I can trust this guy at this point.

This is the thread I bought everything from and he seemed like a stand up guy, however if it really is not an HD2 issue then I've been had.

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...shafts-513933/

Here I was thinking I was doing the right thing... **** me.

Last edited by Vortec350ss; 10-04-2013 at 03:14 PM.
Old 10-04-2013 | 03:47 PM
  #32  
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Sorry to hear that. Definitely don't do the rebuild he's offering, you can buy a properly built unit with upgraded parts from a sponsor for about that, or less!

I'd go through all of the HD2 install steps again. Perhaps it's something to do with the boost valve?
Old 10-04-2013 | 04:30 PM
  #33  
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Unfortunately (and I really hate to say this) with out being able to Physically check the unit your self, you never know what your getting. I bought a core thinking no big deal I can rebuild it.

The guy wanted to trade his 4L80E for a 700R4. Lets just say even though it looked like there was fresh fluid in the pan, I got taken for a ride...
Old 10-04-2013 | 09:33 PM
  #34  
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got the same problem with one at the shop right now and it was built by a really good tranny guy ill let you know whats up when he figures out what went wrong

Last edited by PRO TOUR HOE; 10-04-2013 at 09:57 PM.
Old 10-04-2013 | 09:53 PM
  #35  
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Rob, this is taken from the 80E info I just sent you.

LOW LINE PRESSURE
• Pressure Regulator Valve (231), Boost Valve (228),
or Spring (230)
– Stuck, damaged, broken
• Oil Pump (203)
– Cross channel air leak, body to cover or body to case
• Pump Valve Bores
– Excessive valve clearance due to wear
• Valve Body (301)
– Cross channel leaks
– Cross valve land leaks
• Gasket/Spacer Plate
– Damaged
– Missing
• Pressure Control Solenoid Valve (320)
– Valve is stuck On
– Broken clip causes leakage
– Wire is pinched to ground
– Screen is missing
• Cooler Lines
– Clogged or restricted.
Old 10-05-2013 | 08:56 PM
  #36  
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Thanks pat. That's really helpful.
Old 10-06-2013 | 02:58 PM
  #37  
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I am in the same boat you are Vortec350ss... After rebuilding my 4L80e and installing the HD-2 as per the instructions I'm seeing the same symptoms. Dropped the pan on Thursday and found the TCC valve in the pump was laying in the pan. Thinking this was my problem I dropped the trans re-installed the spring, valve, plug and snap ring. Removed the valve body, air checked all of the clutch packs, checked all of the check *****. Put everything back together and got the trans back in. Re-filled the fluid and ran the truck in the air. Have all drive and reverse gears in the air. Dropped the truck back down on the ground and no reverse. Can feel a definite engagement when putting the trans into drive and reverse but will barely move with 50% throttle. I'm getting a pressure gauge back on now. Still have no idea what else to check besides dropping it out and tearing it all apart again. Disheartening to say the least.
Old 10-06-2013 | 03:08 PM
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Wow Rob, your patience is inspiring! Especially with the clock ticking closer to the end of the racing season. I bought my 80e from the salvage yard in Bow NH for 800 bucks and they gave me a 6 month warrantee. It had 30k miles when i bought it and I must have over 100 passes and 10k miles on it with no problems. I'm not gloating, I'm suggesting go pick up another trans and put it in. I wouldn't spend money on a rebuild with a unit that is non functional with no explanation why.
Old 10-06-2013 | 08:40 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by SCOTT_A
Wow Rob, your patience is inspiring! Especially with the clock ticking closer to the end of the racing season. I bought my 80e from the salvage yard in Bow NH for 800 bucks and they gave me a 6 month warrantee. It had 30k miles when i bought it and I must have over 100 passes and 10k miles on it with no problems. I'm not gloating, I'm suggesting go pick up another trans and put it in. I wouldn't spend money on a rebuild with a unit that is non functional with no explanation why.
Holy **** really? Damn. I'm gonna need to email you for more details there. That sounds like a great option for me.

I was leaning toward an FLT level 4, but that's a great deal scott.
Old 10-07-2013 | 07:25 AM
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Alright guys I just called. Finally some encouraging news. They sell all their trannies with a 6 month warranty.

They have one out of an 05 with 97k on it and they want an even $1k for the trans. I know its not the BEST price, and at 100k its certainly used, but it sounds like a really good option to me. The 6 month warranty gives me some peace of mind. I also won't be installing a shift kit in this one... at least not right away.

If anything happens with this trans I will most definitely step up to the built unit from FLT, but for now this seems like a good option that will be inexpensive, and as I mentioned before the 6 month warranty will really help me sleep at night...


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