22" intro twisted vistas with 285/35r22 toyo tires.

The crew cab rear parts are different. Most 2wd crews have coil springs. If it has torsion bars then its the same part.

 

Ah crap my bad. I was thinking you were EC. I dunno why they won't work on 4 door. I know there's quite a few dropped crew cabs not sure if they are 4wd. Maybe call DJM up?

I went to stylng trucks site and they ain't really got much for lowering kit DJM brand. I may need to pick up spare parts before hand.

 

Just talked to DJM and they didn't want to sell me the 3 inch lca's with the the lowering keys! I told him its been done with no problem and he said well your buddies are lying...lmao...he was getting heated...lol! He finally decided to sell them but said not to hold them responsible for going through tires evey 2 months and that the truck cant be aligned after you drop it...
Question is have ya been going through tires that often and are ya able to get alignments?

 

The Crew Cab is My Sig is an 2004 4x4, its lowered with 3/4 ton purple torsion keys in the front and removed the factory lift blocks and throwed on some 2" shackles! Rides like a dream and aligned perfectly! 10k miles since done and no problems!

 

If you get the djm uppers or flip the stock upper control arm you shouldnt have any alignment issues but yeah with stock uppers and a big decrank it wont line up well.

 

So your saying with the djm lca's I can just flip the uppers around and I will be able to align the front end?

 

I am not sure if it will help you align but you can pm shredsled on here and ask him what he did. I think he may have bought offset bushings too. Flipping the stock upper control arm will help the upper ball joint angle a lot. Keep in mind you need to press the balljoint out and put it in the other way.

 

lol...yeah I figured that! Thanks man your very informing!

 

Bumpers and 1989k1500 dropped their trucks with keys, djm lowers and stock upper control arms and they had -2* camber iirc.

 

I ended up with -.5 & -.6* of camber after dropping my front with keys only...could only get caster to about +3.6ish on both sides IIRC, which is under spec. The original factory spec for my truck was about +4.0ish, but then there was a bulletin that called for even more positive caster. The more positive that you can get the caster, the more the truck will follow the road curves, yet the more stable it will feel, and you get better steering wheel return after making a turn and letting the wheel slide through your hand. My eccentrics are totally maxed out BTW...DJM uppper and lower control arms are definitely on my list, as well as hangers maybe. It helps cornering if you can run as much negative camber up front as possible, before tire wear occurs of course. The Silvy SS factory specs are -.5 in the front, and I'll bet that we could squeak -1.0, -1.2 without a problem...I'd love to know how negative we can go before the inner edges of the front tires start smoking

I'm totally floored at how extreme some of our front cv joint angles are, without the joints blowing apart lol. Makes me feel confident about wanting another inch or two in the front.

I'm also glad to see that Static54 is running 285/50-20's without any major issues, that's what size I currently run, but figured that I'd have to go with a 275/45-20 when the time came...might be able to get away with what I already have