Aaaaaaahhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
04-19-2011 | 10:18 PM
#12
04-20-2011 | 05:49 AM
#13
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If your pedal is going to the floor, the hydroboost stuff isn't going to fix it. Brakes are a hydraulic system. Fluid doesn't compress. So if you have excessive pedal travel, you need to figure out what it is.
First thing to try, put the vehicle in drive and hold the brake pedal. Do this with some room around you. Does the vehicle eventually start to move with the pedal held? If so, if it's not an external leak, it's your master cylinder.
Have someone pump the brakes while you checked to see if the lines are expanding. After a while, the rubber lines will wear out and expand keeping the pressure from making it to the caliper.
If the lines are good, it could be air in the system. They can be a bitch to bleed sometimes.
As for the manuals, I just looked at the first one but if they are all the same source then they are the ASEP manuals. They are what GM uses to train future techs.
First thing to try, put the vehicle in drive and hold the brake pedal. Do this with some room around you. Does the vehicle eventually start to move with the pedal held? If so, if it's not an external leak, it's your master cylinder.
Have someone pump the brakes while you checked to see if the lines are expanding. After a while, the rubber lines will wear out and expand keeping the pressure from making it to the caliper.
If the lines are good, it could be air in the system. They can be a bitch to bleed sometimes.
As for the manuals, I just looked at the first one but if they are all the same source then they are the ASEP manuals. They are what GM uses to train future techs.
I might just do that, if the lines aren't the issue, see what happens.
04-20-2011 | 06:47 PM
#14
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Update...
It turns out that I am a bigger douche than I originally thought. The slide pins in the caliper bracket were frozen. For whatever reason (here is where the douche meter pegs) it never occurred to me that the damn caliper wouldn't be able to move or work properly. So today, we got the pins unstuck with a little help from the Acetylene, cleaned 'em up good and put it all back and i have brakes.
All that said, I now know how to stop the soft pedal **** that we all think is GM's fault. I now have a good solid pedal, great stopping power and can even activate the ABS when I slam the brakes. I haven't been able to do that since I bought the truck in 07. Its a simple combination. Regular rotors and Carquest GOLD pads. The rotors are a third of the cost of slotted (~$45 each) but the pads are $88 per set. Pricey, but they have a lifetime warranty.
If you have a soft pedal and can't figure out why, try that combo.
It turns out that I am a bigger douche than I originally thought. The slide pins in the caliper bracket were frozen. For whatever reason (here is where the douche meter pegs) it never occurred to me that the damn caliper wouldn't be able to move or work properly. So today, we got the pins unstuck with a little help from the Acetylene, cleaned 'em up good and put it all back and i have brakes.
All that said, I now know how to stop the soft pedal **** that we all think is GM's fault. I now have a good solid pedal, great stopping power and can even activate the ABS when I slam the brakes. I haven't been able to do that since I bought the truck in 07. Its a simple combination. Regular rotors and Carquest GOLD pads. The rotors are a third of the cost of slotted (~$45 each) but the pads are $88 per set. Pricey, but they have a lifetime warranty.
If you have a soft pedal and can't figure out why, try that combo.
04-21-2011 | 07:12 AM
#16
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yeah, they are greased up good now. i should do the other side before they seize too. last time i change the rears (about 3 years ago) i just put bearing grease on them. I have always done that, never had an issue, until now.
04-21-2011 | 11:33 AM
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i ******* hate the brakes on these godddamn trucks!!!!!!!!
I just replaced the rear rotors and pads. Stock rotors and carquest gold pads (those pads are absolutely amazing, from past experiences). I have such a ridiculously soft pedal its disgusting. There is no air in the lines, none. I have bled this thing so many times, the fluid has been completely cycled, probably twice. Also had the abs unit pulsed while power bleeding! I can still push the pedal to the floor without the abs activating!!! The master is only about 20k old, wtf? I am pulling 17" of vacuum at idle, so that shouldn't be the issue.
Rant over, now for the questions...
1. I would say that i want to put the brakes off a c5 vette on there, but that won't solve the problem.
2. I have narrowed it down to either the vacuum power assist or the abs unit itself
3. Does anyone know how to test the power assist?
4. Aside from obviously loosing the abs function, is there any other down sides to ripping out the abs unit altogether and can the code be deleted?
This truck is not safe to drive like this. It stops, but it takes forever. And, when i press the pedal, i can feel the initial squeeze, then it almost feels like it releases (looses pressure for a split second), then it starts to bite down again, by this time, my foot is almost at the damn floor.
Please someone chime in with something, i am loosing my bloody mind
I just replaced the rear rotors and pads. Stock rotors and carquest gold pads (those pads are absolutely amazing, from past experiences). I have such a ridiculously soft pedal its disgusting. There is no air in the lines, none. I have bled this thing so many times, the fluid has been completely cycled, probably twice. Also had the abs unit pulsed while power bleeding! I can still push the pedal to the floor without the abs activating!!! The master is only about 20k old, wtf? I am pulling 17" of vacuum at idle, so that shouldn't be the issue.
Rant over, now for the questions...
1. I would say that i want to put the brakes off a c5 vette on there, but that won't solve the problem.
2. I have narrowed it down to either the vacuum power assist or the abs unit itself
3. Does anyone know how to test the power assist?
4. Aside from obviously loosing the abs function, is there any other down sides to ripping out the abs unit altogether and can the code be deleted?
This truck is not safe to drive like this. It stops, but it takes forever. And, when i press the pedal, i can feel the initial squeeze, then it almost feels like it releases (looses pressure for a split second), then it starts to bite down again, by this time, my foot is almost at the damn floor.
Please someone chime in with something, i am loosing my bloody mind
04-21-2011 | 04:05 PM
#19
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I know the grease did play a part, BUT, on my 02 Z71 when I went back to stock rotors and carquest golds, the pins weren't frozen and I had the same issue with the same results. shitty mushy pedal to holy ****, these trucks can actually stop. I don't disagree with you entirely, just partially.
