About to swap 80E, 149, and 3000 stall converter. What should I expect?
10-12-2012, 07:35 PM
#1
About to swap 80E, 149, and 3000 stall converter. What should I expect?
I have a question for you guys.
My next big project for my truck will be swapping in a 4L80E out of a 1999 Suburban. Along with that I'll be swapping in a SC3000 torque converter and a NP149 transfercase.
So right now I've got my upgraded brakes installed, hydroboost, lowering spindles/shackles and sway bars.
This will be the first step in the performance department. The end game plan is 76mm turbo setup.
So, in your words, what will it be like to drive a lowered, AWD truck with a 4L80E on a stock 4L60E tune. I'll be using the reverse solenoid setup without PWM.
Will I notice a difference in how it shifts? What's that stall feel like on a factory 5.3L? Does AWD feel different to drive?
Just curious.
My next big project for my truck will be swapping in a 4L80E out of a 1999 Suburban. Along with that I'll be swapping in a SC3000 torque converter and a NP149 transfercase.
So right now I've got my upgraded brakes installed, hydroboost, lowering spindles/shackles and sway bars.
This will be the first step in the performance department. The end game plan is 76mm turbo setup.
So, in your words, what will it be like to drive a lowered, AWD truck with a 4L80E on a stock 4L60E tune. I'll be using the reverse solenoid setup without PWM.
Will I notice a difference in how it shifts? What's that stall feel like on a factory 5.3L? Does AWD feel different to drive?
Just curious.
10-12-2012, 07:52 PM
#2
You may notice the AWD in tight turns, just a slight bit more resistance in steering but no big deal. 80E's have a nice shift but a taller first gear, you may notice this while your 5.3 is stock but once you get a turbo on it will like the 80E 1st as it will load it better. You will notice the stall at lower speeds but nothing major, once cruising it will feel the same. Are you using the NVG149 T-Case I assume? If so thats the same AWD case thats in mine. I love the AWD. Again this is IMO as you asked.
10-12-2012, 08:44 PM
#3
Sweet. Thanks for the review. Yes it's NP149 transfer case, Which is the same as the in the NVG149 transfer case. One is new process gear the other is new new venture gear, but they're the same transfer case.
I am pretty curious about the 3000 stall torque converter. I guess I was imagining it like if you floored it, it would be the same as dropping the clutch at 3000 RPMs.
After I'm done swapping over this'll be the first time that I really start messing with tuning as well. Once I get everything installed I'll start researching what I should change in the tune for the new transmission. I'm looking forward to doing some basic tuning on the 5.3L as well. Removing the torque management etc.
I am pretty curious about the 3000 stall torque converter. I guess I was imagining it like if you floored it, it would be the same as dropping the clutch at 3000 RPMs.
After I'm done swapping over this'll be the first time that I really start messing with tuning as well. Once I get everything installed I'll start researching what I should change in the tune for the new transmission. I'm looking forward to doing some basic tuning on the 5.3L as well. Removing the torque management etc.
10-13-2012, 07:57 AM
#4
The stall will fell 99% like stock for daily driving.
At a stop you will probably be able to bring the rpms up to 2500 or so and that is called brake stalling it. This helps with your launch, and for fun it allows you to do burnouts much easier and/or squeel the tires from a dead stop.
Back to racing, once you get the best launch figured out it will typicaly go one of two ways. You will brake stall till you are about to start spining the tires, once the light goes green you mash the gas and let off the brake at the same time. The rpms will shoot up to 3200 or so and off like a rocket. Not every converter respons best to that though. Sometimes you leave off idle or on brake stall to 1000 or so. Then when you mash the gas and let off the brake it will jump to 3200 ish before dragging the engine down and you shoot off like a rocket ship.
At a stop you will probably be able to bring the rpms up to 2500 or so and that is called brake stalling it. This helps with your launch, and for fun it allows you to do burnouts much easier and/or squeel the tires from a dead stop.
Back to racing, once you get the best launch figured out it will typicaly go one of two ways. You will brake stall till you are about to start spining the tires, once the light goes green you mash the gas and let off the brake at the same time. The rpms will shoot up to 3200 or so and off like a rocket. Not every converter respons best to that though. Sometimes you leave off idle or on brake stall to 1000 or so. Then when you mash the gas and let off the brake it will jump to 3200 ish before dragging the engine down and you shoot off like a rocket ship.
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