This is not easily searched or researched subject matter. That's why I'm here hoping someone that's been there, done that can give me some informed guidance...

My truck is a 2000 1500 4x4 ECSB. It currently has a Rancho 4 or 5"(?) suspension lift on it. It was installed by the dealer in AZ when it was new as part of the COPO package.
I had it completely replaced last year under warranty because it rusted out and was unsafe to operate. The good folks at Rancho customer support, (after reviewing photos I sent them), obliged me with a brand new replacement suspension lift.

I want more lift, 2" total. I do not want to install a body lift...

I'm thinking that I can add aftermarket +2" torsion keys because the Rancho system uses the stock OEM GM keys with their lift kit and cranks the adjustment screws almost to the heads in the adjustment bar.

The rear suspension will either get another 2" helper spring or a taller block and longer u-bolts. I've been needing to make a minor angle adjustment to the pinion angle, that I suspect has occurred from the Rancho spring pack settling since installed. Plan to kill 2 birds with one rock.

Has anybody successfully done this? Is there a known list of parts that will get me what I want?

I'm aware that I've got half shaft angles in the front end to be mindful of and would like to know the deal there too..

Any help or advice based on lessons learned would be a big help.

Thanks!

 

Anybody?? I realize the trend here on the site is for trucks to go down in elevation.....I really do have a need to go up....
V1

 

So you could probably get away with using some reindexed keys. Some "6inch" lifts use a 4.5" spindle lift and get the rest from cranking the torsion bars.

If you want a better ride however, I may suggest doing a coilover swap. You should be able to get the lift you want and the ride will be much better.
See the links in my sig for more details.

 

It would be possible to add more lift the exact way you are describing. Things to be mindful of: shock length, ball joint angles and cv angles also brake line length. Get me some pics and I can guide you further.

Or like Atomic said coil overs will give better ride

 

Atomic, You're absolutely right!

I'm all over your brackets and coil overs... Just so happens I started with the performance improvements, 4.56 gears, tru-trac, all billet 4L65E and 3k Circle D, HD2...and a BlackBear tune. Got new tires and wheels as part of the cosmetic improvement and want to go up 1-2" the cheap way before I do it the right way.. lol! Getting kicked off on the engine mods now that the warmer temps are here! This has been a 2 year work in progress....

Just as soon as I'm done the motor and happy with the final tune, I'll be calling for a set of those brackets of yours. Can't wait for then! Lots of rave reviews here on the site!

V1

 

I dont know how much you want to spend the "cheap fix", but if you plan on getting keys, having them installed, and getting an alignment done you are probably $500-$600 already invested. I think to do my coilovers would be about $800-850 for a lifted setup. Its always cheaper to do it right the first time

Also there is a guy on GMFS that has a lifted setup with my brackets and he had the swap done all winter and says everything looks great with no corrosion, so thats good.

Guy does have a point though, you will have the same issues with ball joints, cvs, etc. no matter how you lift it. Thats just a result of the increased ride height, not the torsion bars.

 

Message recv'd. I have the T-bar un-loader and have the keys. Blocks and U-bolts are plentiful and labor is on me.

I'm upgrading to a 17x9 Mickey Classic III's with T-Grappler G2's @ 305x70x17. I'm being told they're 34" tall @ 55 psi and should clear my boosted Rancho 4" suspension, (stock keys maxed for level ride height), lift now.

Thought if I could gain another inch or 2 quickly and cheaply, I'd be buying some cheap insurance...

Wheels are heading out for clear powder to ease maintenance and preserve polished billet finish. Only plan to run them in the salt free months.

V1

 

Well there you go! I had the 35x13 terra graplers on my other truck and liked them a lot. They were very heavy though so it hurt mileage and performance some. I would probably run 30-35psi unless you tow a lot.

 

Cheap set of ford keys should work

 

Atomic,
Yes they are a heavy assembly! I run mine right at 55psi. With the 10 ply rating they seem to wear pretty evenly. I'm going to take the old ones off the rims, (still 60+% tread left), and make the front left the front right and the front right the front left. (Same with the rears..) Keeps the tire's belts moving the same direction they've always moved and maintains the same rotational direction. Puts the lesser worn inner edge of the tread to the outside of the vehicle to help even the overall tread wear. Of course they'll get re-balanced and stored away for next fall. New wheels off to the Powder coater today or Monday.

Yesterday I began my physical therapy rehabbing my freshly scoped knee by replacing my catastrophically failed AC belt and locked up tensioner.


Quote: Cheap set of ford keys should work...

Good point. Actually went here, Truck Suspension, Bilstein Shocks, Firestone Air Bags, Timbren, Leaf Springs - TruckSpring.com, and found reasonably priced +1-3" keys and 1" taller rear blocks and and longer U-bolts. I'm also wondering how much of a difference a Hellwig rear sway bar would make with handling during normal driving and towing. Never had one so feedback and opinions would be good on this one.

Continuing to prep/paint detail parts for the motor top end rebuild. Can't wait to get started. I have decided that as soon as I get the suspension where I want it, and the oil pan loosened up, pump replaced and buttoned back up the wheels are coming off the front and 4x4 blocks placed under the rotors so my vertically challenged helpers can reach over the fenders. Guess this means though that the LPP long tubes and ORY will be the last to go on... lol!!