Aftermath of driveshaft mishap: Lessons Learned
#34
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Maybe i should keep my long *** two piece shaft. It would suck to be going down US1 at 150mph trying to show off and loose my driveshaft. I'd look like an idiot the whole 2 seconds before i died.
#38
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Whoever it was that asked about my d/s, I think it was something like that that happened. Mine did have some vibration in it already. I think maybe the vibration that was already there helped it along.
I don't know exactly what happened with mione but I do know the front came loose and knocked the hell out of the floor pan under the drivers seat and when it came loose in the middle it beat things up there pretty good too. I don't know which came loose first though.
I don't know exactly what happened with mione but I do know the front came loose and knocked the hell out of the floor pan under the drivers seat and when it came loose in the middle it beat things up there pretty good too. I don't know which came loose first though.
#39
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Grippy - power is not the issue, it's RPM. Not sure about the 2-piece shaft, I'm leaning towards not. Like I told you in email, this event reminded me that I have a 1500 truck, not a 2500 or a race car. The driveshaft is just one weak link in a chain. Also in that chain are the already proven weak 4L60E transmission and a puny 8.5" 10-bolt rear end. Compounding matters is the 3 tons of truck sitting on top of everything. Most other people with 4L60's and 10-bolts don't have to deal with that. I could upgrade everything like James B. has done with his Suburban, but at this point I'm thinking I'd rather take that money and save it for the first generation Monte Carlo I've always promised myself. (Oh yeah, and move the 3-4 shift point from 6000 to 5600
)
Snake - it was fortunate that no one at the dyno shop was hurt, and driveshaft was only aluminum. If it were me and I was hopping up my truck, I think I'd find the critical speed on my vehicle. I would definitely keep the 2-piece if I were you.
Creed - Denny's told me after finding out the length was of my driveshaft that all they would be able to do would build me another alumnum driveshaft. It would have the same critical speed of the OEM, and it would cost me more (I took GMPD pricing into the dealer and the dealer matched it). Either that, or I could go for 2-piece steel, which would take considerable time, energy, effort, and $$$ to make happen. I would have to find space on the frame for a crossmember, do all the measurements, yadda yadda yadda. This info was straight from Denny himself. I decided it would be simpler, faster, and cheaper to get the OEM shaft, and lower my 3-4 shift point.
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Snake - it was fortunate that no one at the dyno shop was hurt, and driveshaft was only aluminum. If it were me and I was hopping up my truck, I think I'd find the critical speed on my vehicle. I would definitely keep the 2-piece if I were you.
Creed - Denny's told me after finding out the length was of my driveshaft that all they would be able to do would build me another alumnum driveshaft. It would have the same critical speed of the OEM, and it would cost me more (I took GMPD pricing into the dealer and the dealer matched it). Either that, or I could go for 2-piece steel, which would take considerable time, energy, effort, and $$$ to make happen. I would have to find space on the frame for a crossmember, do all the measurements, yadda yadda yadda. This info was straight from Denny himself. I decided it would be simpler, faster, and cheaper to get the OEM shaft, and lower my 3-4 shift point.
#40
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I DO have a 72" aluminum driveshaft.....and I DO have vibration issues at certain rpm's (speed doesn't matter)....and my driveshaft has a couple of nicks in it from hitting a rather large rock that came off the back of a truck ahead of me
It looks like i'll be calling the Dealership for another......
It looks like i'll be calling the Dealership for another......