AWD Bounce Drag Launch?
03-04-2021 | 06:32 PM
#11
I have a gauge for that
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From: Huntsville, AL
What was the deal with that car in the first video? Home boy going around the world lol
I would say you need more travel for the shocks to work, right now doesnt look like you have much of any. Are the shocks set full tight on both rebound and compression? Try more split than that. In the front have the rebound full tight and compression half tight, and the opposite of that in the rear.
I would say you need more travel for the shocks to work, right now doesnt look like you have much of any. Are the shocks set full tight on both rebound and compression? Try more split than that. In the front have the rebound full tight and compression half tight, and the opposite of that in the rear.
03-04-2021 | 07:05 PM
#12
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What was the deal with that car in the first video? Home boy going around the world lol
I would say you need more travel for the shocks to work, right now doesnt look like you have much of any. Are the shocks set full tight on both rebound and compression? Try more split than that. In the front have the rebound full tight and compression half tight, and the opposite of that in the rear.
I would say you need more travel for the shocks to work, right now doesnt look like you have much of any. Are the shocks set full tight on both rebound and compression? Try more split than that. In the front have the rebound full tight and compression half tight, and the opposite of that in the rear.
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68Formula (03-04-2021)
03-04-2021 | 08:59 PM
#15
I have a gauge for that
iTrader: (42)
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Huntsville, AL
I think a big part of the problem is you have very little suspension travel because of the bumpstops (compression) and chains/straps (rebound). You need to give the shocks some room to work so you dont smack a limiter and start bouncing. Asking the shocks to soak up all that movement in like 2inches of travel is asking a lot. With 4wd/awd you want to treat it like a front wheel drive, ie, keep the front down and planted. Its ok to let it come up some, but it has to be controlled (ie, stiff rebound adjustment) and not smack the limiter (chains) and if it wants to go back down let it (lower compression). The opposite with the rear, you dont want it to squat as much (high compression) but you do want it to extend (light rebound setting).
03-05-2021 | 12:39 AM
#16
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I think a big part of the problem is you have very little suspension travel because of the bumpstops (compression) and chains/straps (rebound). You need to give the shocks some room to work so you dont smack a limiter and start bouncing. Asking the shocks to soak up all that movement in like 2inches of travel is asking a lot. With 4wd/awd you want to treat it like a front wheel drive, ie, keep the front down and planted. Its ok to let it come up some, but it has to be controlled (ie, stiff rebound adjustment) and not smack the limiter (chains) and if it wants to go back down let it (lower compression). The opposite with the rear, you dont want it to squat as much (high compression) but you do want it to extend (light rebound setting).
03-05-2021 | 04:27 PM
#17
Thats the speed inc typhoon correct? Jsm makes a kit for the rear with coils that would help alot, mono leafs are for light 2wd cars imo. They also sell double adjustables for the front.
Id agree with everything atomic has said, you want to limit the movement in the front but not stop it completely. Most of your issue is in the rear imo, those soft sidewalls only echo the problem without susp control, but are needed at your power level.
have any sway bars front or rear??
Id agree with everything atomic has said, you want to limit the movement in the front but not stop it completely. Most of your issue is in the rear imo, those soft sidewalls only echo the problem without susp control, but are needed at your power level.
have any sway bars front or rear??
03-06-2021 | 11:40 AM
#19
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Thats the speed inc typhoon correct? Jsm makes a kit for the rear with coils that would help alot, mono leafs are for light 2wd cars imo. They also sell double adjustables for the front.
Id agree with everything atomic has said, you want to limit the movement in the front but not stop it completely. Most of your issue is in the rear imo, those soft sidewalls only echo the problem without susp control, but are needed at your power level.
have any sway bars front or rear??
Id agree with everything atomic has said, you want to limit the movement in the front but not stop it completely. Most of your issue is in the rear imo, those soft sidewalls only echo the problem without susp control, but are needed at your power level.
have any sway bars front or rear??
This truck has a 12 bolt and JSM told me they don't (and won't) make a 4 link kit for a 12 bolt as there is just no demand. So that's why I went with the Calvert stuff.
No sway bars, It did have the factory front one but I axed it to save the 25 lbs since I was running tight limiters anyway.
I'll test this next weekend on the drag radials I have to see if I can do better with a stiffer tire and looser shock settings as recommended, having an issue with the Hoosiers anyways. I also trimmed up front and rear bump stops yesterday and will try different limiter "tightness" as well.
My mistake was assuming no shock travel was fine based on watching the fast AWD cars out there but everyone I have spoken to or heard from has said other wise - that there is actually some shock movement. There is so little AWD info out there especially at this power level (over 1k whp) and weight (4k lbs). Logic tells me this truck should be close to 2 tenths faster in the 60 ft once I get it figured out.