Wide Open

I would love to find out what is required for this swap. I found a 2500HD front diff local today and might be interested in swapping if it isn't insanely difficult.

2004SSS

iTrader: (25)

yes who knows what is involved in a 1500 to 2500 front diff swap?

is looks like it may work.

eaton makes an e locker and imo that the ticket to traction.

parish8

iTrader: (6)

they are significantly larger on the outside. i held one up to a 8.25 before. same style but larger.

i am pretty sure it could be done but it wont bolt in. you will also need custom 1/2 shafts becaue the 3/4 ton unit is a little wider. back when i was thinking about it i found a place that would make any shaft you want. 2500 inside with 1500 splines on the outside all out of a stronger material. can't remember the name of the place but they did 4 wheeler stuff.

all that being said.... i dont think working on front traction is the key. i used to but now i think working on geting the truck to hook in the back is the way to go and if the front is on the ground and helping out a litte then great. if it isn't they even cooler. the awd stuff is good for the street but for the track you can do better with slicks and other traction devices.

2004SSS

iTrader: (25)

well said jim , i just need to test my new experiments, if your lighter 2wd truck hooked i think mine should be able to to with less weight and less power.

did you ever try spring clamps ?

im working on traction bars for the rear ( cal tracs) i know you said your werent impressed with them as much as the front limiters but thw awd and 4wd are different, when ours sees traction lost in the rear it send all power to the front which is what also is hurting me. so next time out its 28.8 305 radials all around, limit straps , and cal tracs/ spring clamps.

parish8

iTrader: (6)

huh, i had a 4wd.

spring clamps are a poor mans caltrac. probably not as good but good for reducing wheel hop if you have that problem.

your t case cant send more power to the front than the rear. i am pretty sure you have a "viscous couling" wich pretty much means your tcase is like a posi. it sends power to the front and rear all the time but allows them to vary a little just like a posi does.

i am not 100% sure on what i just typed but i am pretty sure the front end wont get more power than the rear. it wont ever see more rpms than the rear unless something is worn out.

KySilverado

iTrader: (7)

I've been reading your posts and understand the need for traction but I would consider swapping front diffs or adding a locker to it the last option. I think the front straps, 4 wheel DR's and working on getting more traction in the rear as Jim states will go a long way if not all the way to getting you where you want to be.

Wide Open

For me personally I don't have any traction issues at the track. I have used both the AWD case (currently in use) and the more traditional T-cases and am looking for better traction when pulling stuff out of the field and deep snow. The AWD transfer case I have now allows too much rear wheel slip in the snow for my liking. I want a true 4x4 when I select 4wd.
As for the AWD case transfer of power...

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...d.php?t=412139

check out post 7 specifically. It looks like the t-case can send more power to the front than the rear in certain scenarios. Four tires on pavement is not likely to be one of scenarios though.

parish8

iTrader: (6)

i have seen people dyno an awd with no front driveshaft in. that would be the most extreme no front traction condition you can have and it dynod normaly. i know it can be bad for them but it worked so i am still going to say your front wheels are not going to spin faster than your rear unless that viscous coupling is shot.

04Denali

The NVG-149 will transfer up to 100% to the front or rear or any combination to get traction.
Mark

GMracer

iTrader: (12)

If you are set on keeping the AWD I'd seriously look into swapping to the 2500 diff. but I think you're going to be on you own here, since it's not such a common mod. As far as suspension, you can add the spring clamps but your power it's not going to change much if anything at all. I'd work on running some traction bars if you are set on keeping the leafs, and then run QA1 shocks so you can dial in you compression and rebound, maybe even custom setup a pair up front, that way you can help determine the way you suspension squats under extreme load, thus helping the front end stay put.