GoinBacktoCali

Next is to deal with this situation..


Technic I used to tighten the nuts on the backside


Discovered that M6 nuts and 1/4 flat washers work well on the factory bolts. Still need a bead of silicone and some 3M rubberized spray.


Finished installing the shifter


I found a wiring schematic from a friend in a low place and wired the light blue wire from the front axle actuator to the tan wire going down to the plug for the encoder motor on the 246. The brown/white wire goes to the grey/black wire of the PCM for the 4-lo mod. I went ahead and plugged all connectors back into the TCCM to hope I dont have any warning lights, although, it'll probably just happen.


Wiring for the selector switch plug going up to the inside of the cab. Blue wire goes to the black wire, which is tied into the ground for the TCCM, white wire goes to brown/white which is tied into the grey/black wire for the 4-lo mod, brown wire goes to tan which connnects to the front axle actuator.


Finished with the bezel and knobby. Not pretty, but eh, its a truck...

GoinBacktoCali

B&M 70264 cooler installed. Woot.


Cooler connections provided in the kit


Gotta make sure you cut down on heat and rubbing holes in hoses


The kit they provide with this cooler is fantastic. You get the connections and hose clamps you need. You just have to purchase some 3/4" heater hose and splice it down the middle so it will go over the cooler lines. Wire ties are good too. Lastly, I purchased a matching 5' rubber hose to the one they include. I also sprayed some brakes parts cleaning fluid in the return line of the transmission and then blew it out with the compressor. Man was that stuff nasty. It looked like

GoinBacktoCali

Fixed the exhaust problem, I laid down some weld and then ground it so everything will sit flush. How could I seal the new weld material? High-heat paint, maybe?


Tailhousing torqued to spec


14 bolt I got for $150. This is the angle the previous owner had it at. I lined up my spring perches with where I cut off the old ones. It's from an '88 1500 with the F44 package. I measured 49" on center, and they were both about 2 9/16" from the factory flanges. I'll have to cut those bad boys off, get some new ones made from machine shop here in town, and weld those on.


'98 NP241C Currently searching for a p-drop 241/208 flange so I can run an 03-07 Dodge HD 1350CV driveshaft later on when I SAS it


Made some more progress today Need to get both driveshafts back in, the selector cable, cooler line clip that a I broke, p-side cover, fluid in tranny and transfer case, charge the battery, hook it up, cross fingers and turn key.


241 installed. Also put a new gasket in between it and the tranny.


I purchased an older style integral slip front driveshaft to match up with the 241.


Hopefully someone reading this can help me with two questions.
I have an extra rubber tubing and I'm not sure where it goes. I dont remember pulling a vacuum line off the engine, but maybe I did. I think these tubes are just pressure blow off lines.

Other question is about the p-side exhaust pipe. Three pieces fell out when I pulled it. I know where the large circular ring, but dont know the orientation of the other two pieces. It looks like the piece slides in the exhaust pipe, and the flanged upper part mates with the manifold. Is this correct?


Fingernail test, caught it right in the middle of the clutching surface.


Should have given the standard 'chebbycarnagemiddlefinger'


Burnt milktoast

GoinBacktoCali

Sumbitch works! I cant fawkin believe it! Driving on the highway at 65 I was around 1900RPM! Nevermind the bumper and wheels. The bumper is merely a template for things to come. I have P,R,N,D,3,2, and 1! It took about 9.5 quarts to bring the hot fluid between the marks. Got the exhaust in, rear driveshaft, DexIII in the 241 and Dex VI in the tranny. Did the engine oil just for the hell of it. Somethings up with the t-case though. I feels like I have to put it in 4HI to allow movement. I must not have the linkage adjusted properly. When its as far back as it goes I have all gears, when I move it one position forward the engine just revs, so obviously thats N right? Probably need it off all fours and a front driveshaft to figure that one out. The DIC says Service 4WD. The fluid level is good, about 1/2" below fill hole. The exhaust is also riding on the torsion bar x-member because of the Realifts. I cant wait to get rid of all this fail.

Did some research this morning and in N I have movement. It doesnt appear that the engine/tranny is doing it because I dont hear the flare of pressure build up in the tranny. If I put it one position forward of this there isnt any movement at all:


Tranny is N


Weve got wheel spin


Front yoke spins when what I think is N on the transfer case.

GoinBacktoCali

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