boost+traction=
12-17-2006, 12:00 AM
#21
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Think some thick wall tubing wwelded from the housing to the axle tubed on each side top and bottom would help? I can construct somehting with my 10 bolt. I will be taking the hole axle out to do my gear and diff. install because anyways I have to notch the fram for the 4/6 drop. I was thinking som thick wall 1" tubing would be more than enough.
Something like this. Tubes on the top and bottom and one across. I can have some bolts welded to the dif. cover and axles to make the center bar removable for service.
I will probably do this for my own truck. I can weld up some more if anyone is interested.
Something like this. Tubes on the top and bottom and one across. I can have some bolts welded to the dif. cover and axles to make the center bar removable for service.
I will probably do this for my own truck. I can weld up some more if anyone is interested.
12-17-2006, 01:57 AM
#22
GM sells a housing that fits. I used the housing from a 1500 Crewcab that had a JH6 disc brake option. The axles were custom made to fit my 6 lug wheels, and I'm having moser fix a set of 1500HD rotors (redrilling to 6x5.5). For calipers, I'm using GM two pistons.
TA makes a girdle for it now too.
I think this set up should work fine for you too.
The housing is 12471325 but be ready for wallet shock. I thought I had the caliper, caliper anchors and disc flange pns right here, but don't seem to have them anymore...
TA makes a girdle for it now too.
I think this set up should work fine for you too.
The housing is 12471325 but be ready for wallet shock. I thought I had the caliper, caliper anchors and disc flange pns right here, but don't seem to have them anymore...
12-17-2006, 06:49 AM
#24
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Originally Posted by quicksilverado
For those with turbos, the lower geared rear gear ratios are stronger since there are fewer teeth on the ring and pinion. As a result they are thicker.
12-17-2006, 07:52 PM
#26
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Strange http://www.strangeengineering.net/
Currie http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/grappler.aspx
Moser http://www.moserengineering.com/index.html
I'd CALL one of them and discuss options. You don't have to buy anything, and I'm sure you'll have some different ideas than before you called.
Currie http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/grappler.aspx
Moser http://www.moserengineering.com/index.html
I'd CALL one of them and discuss options. You don't have to buy anything, and I'm sure you'll have some different ideas than before you called.
12-18-2006, 10:31 PM
#28
If you want to keep the housing from flexing, bolt a half inch thick "diff-ring" between the housing and the diff cover, or bolt the diff cover between it and the housing.
You could also run alloy shafts as mentioned to strenghten the the 10 bolt even more.
As I told 1slow01Z71, the best bang for the buck would be to source a 14 SF 6 lug from an 88-98 half ton Z71, or from an 88-98 3/4 ton 6 lug van. They are the correct width, and will bolt in once the spring perches are relocated.
You could also run alloy shafts as mentioned to strenghten the the 10 bolt even more.
As I told 1slow01Z71, the best bang for the buck would be to source a 14 SF 6 lug from an 88-98 half ton Z71, or from an 88-98 3/4 ton 6 lug van. They are the correct width, and will bolt in once the spring perches are relocated.
12-18-2006, 11:28 PM
#30
Originally Posted by axisT6
As I told 1slow01Z71, the best bang for the buck would be to source a 14 SF 6 lug from an 88-98 half ton Z71, or from an 88-98 3/4 ton 6 lug van. They are the correct width, and will bolt in once the spring perches are relocated.