Broken 80e!
07-12-2011, 07:56 PM
#71
Little bit of advice on 4L80E builds.
Fancy clutches and steels do no good.
Proper assembly and a good hydraulic recipe go a long ways.
It's pretty applicable to most transmissions as well. Red, blue, purple, pink etc frictions and fancy coated steels are pretty much a waste of money.
Fancy clutches and steels do no good.
Proper assembly and a good hydraulic recipe go a long ways.
It's pretty applicable to most transmissions as well. Red, blue, purple, pink etc frictions and fancy coated steels are pretty much a waste of money.
Last edited by Vince B; 07-12-2011 at 10:01 PM. Reason: Signature
07-12-2011, 08:04 PM
#72
Little bit of advice on 4L80E builds.
Fancy clutches and steels do no good.
Proper assembly and a good hydraulic recipe go a long ways.
It's pretty applicable to most transmissions as well. Red, blue, purple, pink etc frictions and fancy coated steels are pretty much a waste of money.
Fancy clutches and steels do no good.
Proper assembly and a good hydraulic recipe go a long ways.
It's pretty applicable to most transmissions as well. Red, blue, purple, pink etc frictions and fancy coated steels are pretty much a waste of money.
07-12-2011, 10:30 PM
#73
Of that, I have no doubt. And I do believe that is the issue here...something is being neglected during assembly that my eyes aren't sharp enough to see yet. As far as clutches and steels go...if I'm in the transmission, might as well put some good stuff in. If for anything, for some extra peace of mind that its just a little bit more durable. I am definitely back to square one with peace of mind on this truck, though...
07-12-2011, 11:00 PM
#74
07-13-2011, 06:42 AM
#77
The rear fitting is different (I think only on the 99 up 80e's). It looks the same from the outside of the tranny, but on the inside there is a nipple that goes into the center support. That nipple supply's the fluid to the rear of the tranny for coolant and lubrication. You will burn up a tranny in 200 miles if you do not have this, and 2 of them in 400 miles. Ask me how I know. Lol. When I bought my tranny the original fitting was removed, and it was a pain to figure out. Here is a pic of 2 60e fittings, and the different 80e fitting.
07-13-2011, 08:24 AM
#78
You can still have debris in the cooler after flushing it. The Tru Cool 40k is the type that has the inlet on one side, and the outlet on the other side with several tubes connecting them in between. That is the reason I wanted to stay away from the Tru Cool. I decided to go with a Summitracing cooler that is one continuous tube that basically weaves back and forth side to side. The fluid runs straight through, and there is basically no way that debris can remain in the cooler after flushing. You can have debris remain in the Tru Cool after flushing as the flushing fluid will take the path of least resistance, and may never even touch the debris. Here is a pic of the two next to eachother. I would also assume that it would be worse if the lines entered and exited from the top as opposed to the bottom.
07-13-2011, 08:40 AM
#79
You can still have debris in the cooler after flushing it. The Tru Cool 40k is the type that has the inlet on one side, and the outlet on the other side with several tubes connecting them in between. That is the reason I wanted to stay away from the Tru Cool. I decided to go with a Summitracing cooler that is one continuous tube that basically weaves back and forth side to side. The fluid runs straight through, and there is basically no way that debris can remain in the cooler after flushing. You can have debris remain in the Tru Cool after flushing as the flushing fluid will take the path of least resistance, and may never even touch the debris. Here is a pic of the two next to eachother. I would also assume that it would be worse if the lines entered and exited from the top as opposed to the bottom.
Chris
