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Built tranny shift question~1-2 shift killing me

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Old 09-05-2005, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 1SlowHoe
How could I tell if it is vac modulated by looking at it?
It would have to have a vacuum manifold reference. There would be a vacuum line running from the trans up to the intake manifold somewhere. Probably between the firewall and rear of engine.
Old 09-05-2005, 12:47 PM
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Then I would have to say its not Vac modulated. I did the install with a friend and we didn't have any lines running away from the tranny. There were plenty of sensor hook ups and bolts that are impossible to reach
Old 09-05-2005, 02:49 PM
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If you must drive it before this is sorted out, be gentle. The 4L60-E cannot handle jolting 1-2 shifts at full throttle.
Old 09-05-2005, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by James B.
If you must drive it before this is sorted out, be gentle. The 4L60-E cannot handle jolting 1-2 shifts at full throttle.
It's a racing tranny built to take pretty much anything I can throw at it. It's a 4L65E not a 60E. I have been driving it like this for about 4 months. At more than half throttle it feels great but a low speeds it is real jerky. I was told this is because the accumulators are blocked off and my line pressure is still set higher for my old stock tranny. Anybody near Pensacola with edit software wanna help me out with adjusting line pressure?
Old 09-05-2005, 11:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 1SlowHoe
It's a racing tranny built to take pretty much anything I can throw at it. It's a 4L65E not a 60E....
I know what it is. A 65 is barely more capable than a 60. I'm just offering some advice from someone who's personally flushed a lot of cash on trying to make these things hold up and simply suggesting you take it easy until it's fixed. Whomever prevented the accumulator from working made an incorrect decision about what's "right". There are too many aluminum parts transferring power inside a 4L60/65/70 that will fatigue excessively with jolting shifts like that. Do what you like.
Old 09-06-2005, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by James B.
I know what it is. A 65 is barely more capable than a 60. I'm just offering some advice from someone who's personally flushed a lot of cash on trying to make these things hold up and simply suggesting you take it easy until it's fixed. Whomever prevented the accumulator from working made an incorrect decision about what's "right". There are too many aluminum parts transferring power inside a 4L60/65/70 that will fatigue excessively with jolting shifts like that. Do what you like.
I wasn't trying to sound like a jerk I was just repeating what the builder had told me. He said this thing could take 700hp with ease. Since I'm not anywhere near that I figured I'm not hurting anything. I would love to get it fixed for the simple fact that it annoys the out of me but I don't know anyone with edit software and even if I did I wouldn't know how to adjust it. I guess I'll have to spend the $45 shipping fee to get my tune adjusted. I was just trying to hold off until I get a dyno tune in a couple months after I put in the 4:10's/Eaton and drop the pulley to a 3.25 Sorry if I came off like an ***, it wasn’t my intention.
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