After using spring clamps for a long time to kill wheel hop I wanted to see what the big deal was with the caltracs style traction bars. And if they were in deed any better than just the spring clamps and stiffeners I had been using. There was no way I was going to pay $330 for something that a I wasn’t sure would be any better than $15 dollar spring clamps and stiffeners I built. Got all the pictures I could find and went to work. Having never seen a set of caltracs in real life it was a bit challenging. But I think they came out pretty good. I have only ran them around tonight for a little bit but I must say I like them. They seem to help traction a bit more then just the spring clamps. The *** end of the truck feels really solid and with some adjusting and playing I think they might be a pretty valuable asset. From about a 30mph roll my truck almost got some traction And of coarse there was no wheel hop. I think these are going to be good for a tenth or two at the track with the slicks on. But who knows. I will say for the amount of time I have in designing and machining these $330 might not be a bad price. I had a few hiccups along the way but it was fun and kept me out of trouble. I’m in them about $75 but that’s without the powder coating and I haven’t seen bill. Most of that was the rod ends. I’ll post up more about my findings later. It’s late.

And on a side note I drove my truck around for quite awhile with just the aluminum front spring bushings in and that pretty much eliminated the wheel hop and kept the stock ride of the truck. I know there are people out there that don’t want to clamp the springs this might be an alteratntive

HERE ARE A FEW PICS

 

man you do good work. that looks sharp. i havebeen wanting to build a set for my truck as well.

 

Once I get my Radix installed I plan on getting Caltracs. I didnt think 330$ was bad I know I'll need better hooking tires though. Along with an Eaton posi I think I'll be ok. Watch out 4l60.

 

Your first sentence is exactly what I was thinking. Other than that, you are copying someone elses engineering. On that note, you could do that with anything. I have the tools, skills, and knowledge to build them myself too. But most people don't. Are you going to do them for cost if someone wants you to build a set? You did a nice job though. I always appreciate clean fabrication.

 

Very nice! I built traction bars for a friend truck and brackets for a set of premade bars for my truck. My friend is the king of over kill so ordinary bar would not work for his D-Max. I used 2" pipe and rod ends from a 3 point hitch off a farm tractor.

 

I wish it would have been just copying someones engineering but I was just copying the idea. I was going to order some caltracs and just pull the dimisions from there parts but I though what the hell how hard can it be. Well if you can tell from the pics I had to make the front mount twice. Other than that everything went pretty smooth. I had to take the truck apart a couple times just to test fit and what not.

And when I say $330 wasn't to bad of a price I guess I ment that I have that much in my time into it. But if I ever had to make a set for another truck like mine it would take about a third of the time or less. Due to the fact that I know everything works and fits now. If I was doing production runs of these like caliver racing does I would think that they could keep there cost down around $50-75 bucks a set. In turn even if you double or triple that cost you don't come up with $330. I wish I could make 200% profit on some of the **** I build. But then again I have never see any of the caltracs in real life they might be doing something different than I did---Like gold plating--

Thats for the props guys! Gotta go dial these bars in.

 

Make me a set I'll send you $75.00. Like your work.

 

I wouldn't do that, there's something called patent law that prevents that.


I'm in the process of making a set for my truck. I have them on my Camaro, so I have a really good idea what to go off of. Anyway, Lone Chev, NICE JOB!!! I have a few constructive criticisms though. I can't really tell too much from the pics, but did you use 3/4" heim joints? It looks like you did and that's good, because that's the minimum you should use if you're making any kind of power. Also the location of the points on the front pivot are critical. The preload bolt should be about 1/2 way between the spring eye, and the 2nd leaf in the pack. Again, I can't tell too much from the pics but the front heim joint looks a little low. This point is crucial, because it determines your instant center. Calvert racing's include a few holes here, because it allow additional adjustability, because every car is different. With that being said, you might want to add more holes so you can adjust you instant center for varying track conditions, tires, power etc. Another tip is to get the pivot to move as free as possible. There can't be any binding, they must rotate smoothly and easily.

On my set, I'm not using solid bushings, because I drive my truck everyday, and I hate the ride of solid bushings. I'm modifying the stock rubber one, so that should help with ride quality. But at the same time, they might flex too much for some of you high hp guys.

Oh yeah, one thing I see a lot of people not doing with these is: Playing with the preload. You must play with it and adjust it at the track (or somewhere safe). They're not slapper bars where you just put them on and go. You have get your pinion angle right for your setup, there's no formula for it. Trial and error.

Oh yeah, here's a link for ya'll that don't have a set to look at.

http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Traction.html

Again, good job man!

 

Thats awsome

 

For the time and effort...I would just buy the caltracs.....and I am a cheap ****.