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Cammed and lifted 06 silverado stall converter

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Old 06-15-2024, 04:20 PM
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He’s on 37s, he’s going to want at least 4.88 gears and I’d probably gear lower.
Old 06-15-2024, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by smokinlmm
Probably needs a stall around 2600. If you go too big your fuel economy will be terrible. I just took out my 3600 and replaced it with a 2850. My mileage went from 6 with the 3600 on the highway to 14. If you daily it do not go over 3000 or your wallet will hate you from fuel bills.
Ok thank you and yea it’s my daily until I get the tranny fixed in my other car. And my odometer reads 10.4 mpg but my fuel gauge had been out so I’m not sure how long ago it was getting that and yea I don’t want to need gas even more than I already do
Old 06-15-2024, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by RB04Av
Which "Stage 4" cam; the truck one, or the car one? 2 very different things.

The TBSS converter isn't materially different from any other stock converter. They all stall at around 1750 or thereabouts behind a 5.3.

I just recently put a 2800 stall from Yank in my 5.3 Av. Stock cam, 3.73 gears, only significant mod is LTs. Seems OK if a little bit more than I thought I was going to get. Gas mileage is about the same as the stock one, maybe even a little better actually, since I put it in at the same time as a new transmission, and it seems that the TCC PWM is disabled in this trans. Yours won't change much, if at all; especially not on the highway; the lockup clutch still renders it metallic at cruising speeds, just like the stock converter.


Yes definitely a tuning problem. The converter won't affect the tune very much, so don't let that stop you from getting that taken care of.
To be frank I’m not sure which one, the guy told me it was a stage 4 Texas speed cam, he didn’t know the cam specs or anything like that and the only way I know how to find that out is to pull the cam and look on the end of it. Is there an easier way to find that out? I don’t have all the tools to pull the cam right now. And are you saying a 2800 would be where I should be looking?

And to be sure, I won’t need to retune it after I switch out the stall? So I can get that done right now and do the stall after without compactions?
Old 06-15-2024, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by shakenfake
You probably have an I6 Trailblazer converter. Not a tbss which is the same asany other converter
So essentially I have a stock converter?
Old 06-15-2024, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by strutaeng
I thought the "symptoms" of a torque converter stall speed being the too low for a cam was surging at idle? Something like that?

3.73s are most definitely OEM gears. Good/decent for towing in stock form. 4.56s I think would be good for your tire size

That Trailblazer TC is used as a "budget" TC for getting slightly higher stall speed. In this case, it won't cut it.

I would call an aftermarket TC place like Circle D, and tell them all your specs like cam lift, duration, LSA, transmission, axle ratio (the one you'll change to, of course) and tire size and they'll tell you which stall speed they recommend. There's even stories of some salesmans pushing a certain type of product, so would not hurt to call more than one place as sanity check.

Maybe I missed it, but were there any other mods to the truck? Maybe it was just a wild cam budget job? This is a 4x4 truck, I assume?
Ok thank you and I’m not to sure about the first thing, when in idle it does good and fine, but when coming to a stop fast the rpm’s drop to like 200 and then shoot back up and will level out, when reversing it’ll stall if I give it a good amount of gas then let off. Is that what your referring to?

and thank you for the recommendation I’ll call around and see what places say, do you know of a way to find the cam specs without actually pulling it? I don’t have the tools to do that currently.

And yea only performance mods to the motor are cam and lifters and such to support it then it’s got a aftermarket trans and long tube headers, nothing super fancy, just a budget build, I’m only 20 so I don’t have enough money to buy or build a monster lol and yes it’s a 4x4 but the front diff is pulled right now because it blew
Old 06-15-2024, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by IIGW
This is a terrible combo for a big heavy lifted truck.
You need at least a 2800 stall.

And then, as stated, this entire combo is wrong for this truck.
I know, a stage 4 cam is not for a lifted truck, I know it’s meant for a race car and race truck but for the money I had this was the closest to what I wanted, my old truck was stolen and I used the insurance money to buy this one, I know it’s a bad matchup but I want to try to make it work you know, thank you for the recommendation tho
Old 06-15-2024, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by shakenfake
He’s on 37s, he’s going to want at least 4.88 gears and I’d probably gear lower.
What would you recommend for a middle point of speed and gas mileage?
Old 06-16-2024, 07:12 AM
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We really need to know the actual cam specs to help out.
I doubt many people tried as many setups being lifted as I did when I was lifted.
If you are worried about fuel mileage then sell the truck, wind grab and rotating mass are 2 things you cannot over come no matter what you do, gears are the absolute first thing I would do but will still never help the rotating mass, yes it will help multiply the torque to get the larger diameter moving, I wouldn't even think of anything besides 4.88s or 5.13 gears but heavily side with 5.13s.
Old 06-16-2024, 08:10 AM
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@06WTCE Do you really "need" a lifted truck with giant wheels?

You already know you need a regear ($2000 for both axles for a shop to do), aftermarket torque converters are expensive and you have to pay someone to install it (ain't going to be cheap), then you need a tune. And still truck probably is not going to be fun to drive and you will have a much greater chance of blowing up your transmission and rear end (neither are known for strength.) A transmission rebuild alone is like $4,000. Probably $2000 if you blow your rear axle. Since it's regeared with super high gears, you be able to simply swap a part-out special from the wrecking yard. Basically, you need a lot of cash at your disposal.

Have you considered simply removing the lift kit and going back to stock-ish wheels/tires? Regear problem and cost goes away. Sell the lift kit and the tires and get some money back.

Remove the cam and go with a much milder cam for better driveability. This make the aftermarket torque converter problem go away too.

...just a thought.
Old 06-16-2024, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by GREENSIERRA
We really need to know the actual cam specs to help out.
I doubt many people tried as many setups being lifted as I did when I was lifted.
If you are worried about fuel mileage then sell the truck, wind grab and rotating mass are 2 things you cannot over come no matter what you do, gears are the absolute first thing I would do but will still never help the rotating mass, yes it will help multiply the torque to get the larger diameter moving, I wouldn't even think of anything besides 4.88s or 5.13 gears but heavily side with 5.13s.
Appreciate the recommendation and that makes sense, but I’m not super worried about gas mileage, I already know lifting a vehicle will make it need more power to get faster than a stock vehicle, I want a lifted truck but all the performance mods are extra, I’m just trying to find out what would be best to make what I have work


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