Cammed and lifted 06 silverado stall converter
#11
TECH Veteran
He’s on 37s, he’s going to want at least 4.88 gears and I’d probably gear lower.
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Probably needs a stall around 2600. If you go too big your fuel economy will be terrible. I just took out my 3600 and replaced it with a 2850. My mileage went from 6 with the 3600 on the highway to 14. If you daily it do not go over 3000 or your wallet will hate you from fuel bills.
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
Which "Stage 4" cam; the truck one, or the car one? 2 very different things.
The TBSS converter isn't materially different from any other stock converter. They all stall at around 1750 or thereabouts behind a 5.3.
I just recently put a 2800 stall from Yank in my 5.3 Av. Stock cam, 3.73 gears, only significant mod is LTs. Seems OK if a little bit more than I thought I was going to get. Gas mileage is about the same as the stock one, maybe even a little better actually, since I put it in at the same time as a new transmission, and it seems that the TCC PWM is disabled in this trans. Yours won't change much, if at all; especially not on the highway; the lockup clutch still renders it metallic at cruising speeds, just like the stock converter.
Yes definitely a tuning problem. The converter won't affect the tune very much, so don't let that stop you from getting that taken care of.
The TBSS converter isn't materially different from any other stock converter. They all stall at around 1750 or thereabouts behind a 5.3.
I just recently put a 2800 stall from Yank in my 5.3 Av. Stock cam, 3.73 gears, only significant mod is LTs. Seems OK if a little bit more than I thought I was going to get. Gas mileage is about the same as the stock one, maybe even a little better actually, since I put it in at the same time as a new transmission, and it seems that the TCC PWM is disabled in this trans. Yours won't change much, if at all; especially not on the highway; the lockup clutch still renders it metallic at cruising speeds, just like the stock converter.
Yes definitely a tuning problem. The converter won't affect the tune very much, so don't let that stop you from getting that taken care of.
And to be sure, I won’t need to retune it after I switch out the stall? So I can get that done right now and do the stall after without compactions?
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
I thought the "symptoms" of a torque converter stall speed being the too low for a cam was surging at idle? Something like that?
3.73s are most definitely OEM gears. Good/decent for towing in stock form. 4.56s I think would be good for your tire size
That Trailblazer TC is used as a "budget" TC for getting slightly higher stall speed. In this case, it won't cut it.
I would call an aftermarket TC place like Circle D, and tell them all your specs like cam lift, duration, LSA, transmission, axle ratio (the one you'll change to, of course) and tire size and they'll tell you which stall speed they recommend. There's even stories of some salesmans pushing a certain type of product, so would not hurt to call more than one place as sanity check.
Maybe I missed it, but were there any other mods to the truck? Maybe it was just a wild cam budget job? This is a 4x4 truck, I assume?
3.73s are most definitely OEM gears. Good/decent for towing in stock form. 4.56s I think would be good for your tire size
That Trailblazer TC is used as a "budget" TC for getting slightly higher stall speed. In this case, it won't cut it.
I would call an aftermarket TC place like Circle D, and tell them all your specs like cam lift, duration, LSA, transmission, axle ratio (the one you'll change to, of course) and tire size and they'll tell you which stall speed they recommend. There's even stories of some salesmans pushing a certain type of product, so would not hurt to call more than one place as sanity check.
Maybe I missed it, but were there any other mods to the truck? Maybe it was just a wild cam budget job? This is a 4x4 truck, I assume?
and thank you for the recommendation I’ll call around and see what places say, do you know of a way to find the cam specs without actually pulling it? I don’t have the tools to do that currently.
And yea only performance mods to the motor are cam and lifters and such to support it then it’s got a aftermarket trans and long tube headers, nothing super fancy, just a budget build, I’m only 20 so I don’t have enough money to buy or build a monster lol and yes it’s a 4x4 but the front diff is pulled right now because it blew
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
I know, a stage 4 cam is not for a lifted truck, I know it’s meant for a race car and race truck but for the money I had this was the closest to what I wanted, my old truck was stolen and I used the insurance money to buy this one, I know it’s a bad matchup but I want to try to make it work you know, thank you for the recommendation tho
#17
Registered User
Thread Starter
#18
TECH Fanatic
We really need to know the actual cam specs to help out.
I doubt many people tried as many setups being lifted as I did when I was lifted.
If you are worried about fuel mileage then sell the truck, wind grab and rotating mass are 2 things you cannot over come no matter what you do, gears are the absolute first thing I would do but will still never help the rotating mass, yes it will help multiply the torque to get the larger diameter moving, I wouldn't even think of anything besides 4.88s or 5.13 gears but heavily side with 5.13s.
I doubt many people tried as many setups being lifted as I did when I was lifted.
If you are worried about fuel mileage then sell the truck, wind grab and rotating mass are 2 things you cannot over come no matter what you do, gears are the absolute first thing I would do but will still never help the rotating mass, yes it will help multiply the torque to get the larger diameter moving, I wouldn't even think of anything besides 4.88s or 5.13 gears but heavily side with 5.13s.
#19
TECH Resident
@06WTCE Do you really "need" a lifted truck with giant wheels?
You already know you need a regear ($2000 for both axles for a shop to do), aftermarket torque converters are expensive and you have to pay someone to install it (ain't going to be cheap), then you need a tune. And still truck probably is not going to be fun to drive and you will have a much greater chance of blowing up your transmission and rear end (neither are known for strength.) A transmission rebuild alone is like $4,000. Probably $2000 if you blow your rear axle. Since it's regeared with super high gears, you be able to simply swap a part-out special from the wrecking yard. Basically, you need a lot of cash at your disposal.
Have you considered simply removing the lift kit and going back to stock-ish wheels/tires? Regear problem and cost goes away. Sell the lift kit and the tires and get some money back.
Remove the cam and go with a much milder cam for better driveability. This make the aftermarket torque converter problem go away too.
...just a thought.
You already know you need a regear ($2000 for both axles for a shop to do), aftermarket torque converters are expensive and you have to pay someone to install it (ain't going to be cheap), then you need a tune. And still truck probably is not going to be fun to drive and you will have a much greater chance of blowing up your transmission and rear end (neither are known for strength.) A transmission rebuild alone is like $4,000. Probably $2000 if you blow your rear axle. Since it's regeared with super high gears, you be able to simply swap a part-out special from the wrecking yard. Basically, you need a lot of cash at your disposal.
Have you considered simply removing the lift kit and going back to stock-ish wheels/tires? Regear problem and cost goes away. Sell the lift kit and the tires and get some money back.
Remove the cam and go with a much milder cam for better driveability. This make the aftermarket torque converter problem go away too.
...just a thought.
#20
Registered User
Thread Starter
We really need to know the actual cam specs to help out.
I doubt many people tried as many setups being lifted as I did when I was lifted.
If you are worried about fuel mileage then sell the truck, wind grab and rotating mass are 2 things you cannot over come no matter what you do, gears are the absolute first thing I would do but will still never help the rotating mass, yes it will help multiply the torque to get the larger diameter moving, I wouldn't even think of anything besides 4.88s or 5.13 gears but heavily side with 5.13s.
I doubt many people tried as many setups being lifted as I did when I was lifted.
If you are worried about fuel mileage then sell the truck, wind grab and rotating mass are 2 things you cannot over come no matter what you do, gears are the absolute first thing I would do but will still never help the rotating mass, yes it will help multiply the torque to get the larger diameter moving, I wouldn't even think of anything besides 4.88s or 5.13 gears but heavily side with 5.13s.