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Cammed and lifted 06 silverado stall converter

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Old 06-16-2024, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by 06WTCE
Appreciate the recommendation and that makes sense, but I’m not super worried about gas mileage, I already know lifting a vehicle will make it need more power to get faster than a stock vehicle, I want a lifted truck but all the performance mods are extra, I’m just trying to find out what would be best to make what I have work
you need very deep pockets, everything has to be over built due to the weight of the truck and rotating mass.
I ran a 14ff rear diff with 5.38 gears, air locker, very built 4l80e, billet multi disk converter, custom 5" aluminum driveshaft etc....
get used to breaking stuff, I was trying to go 10s being lifted and finally said screw it, took all the lift off and lowered it down.
my truck was lifted for 230k, if you dont wrench on your own stuff you better learn how to in a hurry. Front end parts alone will keep you busy.
I get it, lifted trucks are cool, you want to make it a little faster, i did it for many many years and yes it was awsome when I would throw my 33x10.5w slicks on the back and beat up on sports cars, but those sports cars had half the money and half the hp I had to put into mine.
IMO, put some gears in it, take the cam out and just enjoy having a lifted truck.
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strutaeng (06-16-2024)
Old 06-16-2024, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by strutaeng
@06WTCE Do you really "need" a lifted truck with giant wheels?

You already know you need a regear ($2000 for both axles for a shop to do), aftermarket torque converters are expensive and you have to pay someone to install it (ain't going to be cheap), then you need a tune. And still truck probably is not going to be fun to drive and you will have a much greater chance of blowing up your transmission and rear end (neither are known for strength.) A transmission rebuild alone is like $4,000. Probably $2000 if you blow your rear axle. Since it's regeared with super high gears, you be able to simply swap a part-out special from the wrecking yard. Basically, you need a lot of cash at your disposal.

Have you considered simply removing the lift kit and going back to stock-ish wheels/tires? Regear problem and cost goes away. Sell the lift kit and the tires and get some money back.

Remove the cam and go with a much milder cam for better driveability. This make the aftermarket torque converter problem go away too.

...just a thought.
I don’t necessarily NEED a lifted truck but I do like putting money into my vehicles and in a sense making it my own and look the way I want and like, the truck will be used to go mudding sometimes, which I know is not a good matchup with that cam, so the lift and tires are needed, and while I don’t have the tools to do all that, reason being is I moved out of my parents house a year ago and never bought my own tools while living with them, my dad does have all the tools to do all the work and my dad has experience working on trucks and helped my grandpa build his race car a long time ago, so I don’t need to pay anyone to install everything which is a big help for the price, only thing we don’t know how to do is tune. And if I have the tools I can do a lot of the stuff myself, but like you said I need a lot of money at my disposal to buy all the tools and then the things I need on top of that, so for as long as he is ok with it I’ll go over and borrow my dads tools and shop to do the work, he is a few hours away so it won’t be a constant thing but it is available

As to the last part I would much rather have a stock performance wise lifted truck than a stock lift semi upgraded truck, I just like the look of lifted trucks and and am looking for what is needed to make what I have work and get outsiders opinion

I do understand what your saying though and if I didn’t care about it being lifted, I would definitely do what your saying
Old 06-16-2024, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by GREENSIERRA
you need very deep pockets, everything has to be over built due to the weight of the truck and rotating mass.
I ran a 14ff rear diff with 5.38 gears, air locker, very built 4l80e, billet multi disk converter, custom 5" aluminum driveshaft etc....
get used to breaking stuff, I was trying to go 10s being lifted and finally said screw it, took all the lift off and lowered it down.
my truck was lifted for 230k, if you dont wrench on your own stuff you better learn how to in a hurry. Front end parts alone will keep you busy.
I get it, lifted trucks are cool, you want to make it a little faster, i did it for many many years and yes it was awsome when I would throw my 33x10.5w slicks on the back and beat up on sports cars, but those sports cars had half the money and half the hp I had to put into mine.
IMO, put some gears in it, take the cam out and just enjoy having a lifted truck.
Yea that’s fair, and I know damn sure I’m not going to be the fastest on the road nor close to it lol, and the main thing I’ll be racing is my friends and other trucks, i know I’ll have no chance against 90% or cars with 1/3 of my hp or more, and yea I know how to do most of the work suspension wise and drivetrain wise, not much about tranys bc I never needed to pull one or work on one, what I don’t know how to do I can ask my dad, only problem is I don’t have my own tools just yet, front end wise most of it is kryptonite which is pretty durable, I know the lift and tires wear that down WAY faster than stock but with upgraded uppers lowers and tire rods that slows it down a little, my old truck (a 2000 Silverado 1500) before it was stolen was on a 9 inch lift and 37x14 and stock performance wise any other suspension other than lift was stock too and it was a very good truck for the 40,000 miles I had it and very little maintenance and stuff, that was my first truck and I got this one after it was stolen.

I might take out the cam in the future for a smaller one when I want the truck to be only mudding and stuff like that but right now I’d like to keep it in if possible
Old 06-16-2024, 07:07 PM
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The kryptonite will definitely help slow down the front end wear.
To bad you dont know which cam you have forsure, if you did then I could help out more .
definitely look into doing gears sooner then later, the 3.73s and 37"s will definitely make the trans have a shorter life span.
my wife daily drove what I think is pretty close to a perfect lifted vehicle for 12 years.
05 tahoe z71, 5" lift, 35s, 4.56, i put a L33 in it, btr stage 2 cam, nnbs intake, 90mm throttle body and a tune. Stock converter even tho a 3200 would make it alot more fun It is now only used for towing our 32' camper, doesn't get horrible fuel mileage, tows amazing and still looks good.
Old 06-16-2024, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by shakenfake
He’s on 37s, he’s going to want at least 4.88 gears and I’d probably gear lower.
.
.
. Without question: 4.88 gear required. If they made 5.13 that would be even better,
I run 4.56 in half ton Tahoe, about perfect with 34 inch tire.
Old 06-19-2024, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by GREENSIERRA
The kryptonite will definitely help slow down the front end wear.
To bad you dont know which cam you have forsure, if you did then I could help out more .
definitely look into doing gears sooner then later, the 3.73s and 37"s will definitely make the trans have a shorter life span.
my wife daily drove what I think is pretty close to a perfect lifted vehicle for 12 years.
05 tahoe z71, 5" lift, 35s, 4.56, i put a L33 in it, btr stage 2 cam, nnbs intake, 90mm throttle body and a tune. Stock converter even tho a 3200 would make it alot more fun It is now only used for towing our 32' camper, doesn't get horrible fuel mileage, tows amazing and still looks good.
Appreciate the advice man and I’ll look into some new gears as well as a new converter. Thank you man
Old 06-19-2024, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Fullpower
.
.
. Without question: 4.88 gear required. If they made 5.13 that would be even better,
I run 4.56 in half ton Tahoe, about perfect with 34 inch tire.
Appreciate the advice I’ll look into 5.13’s
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