This is a Greek Fricken Tragedy.

I finally get the truck running again after spending a year getting the motor rebuilt due to a lifter going out and deciding to switch over to a LS3 harness with an E38 controller.

I was doing a WOT pull in second gear, the converter was locked and just as I let off the throttle there was giant thud that shuttered the whole truck and now I have no gears forward and no reverse. My G-Tech meter was registered close to 850HP at the end of the pull.

I feel and hear nothing when I put it any gear and rev the motor, but when my friend was pulling me home with the engine running in neutral the engine was revving.

Off the top my head I am thinking I sheared the input shaft, I don't know what it feels like if a converter goes.

I appreciate any thoughts and comments before I start pulling this thing apart...Again!

 

If it's a stock input shaft, there's a good chance it's in 2 pieces. They're only reliable to about 750 fwhp.

 

And not even that far if you are locking the converter at WO.

 

The transmission was "built" knowing what it was going behind but I don't think they put in anything special.

I never had the convertor locking at WOT with the previous build but with the new E38/T42 controllers my tuner decided to lock the converter in 2nd and 3rd. It has only been running for less than 30 days and WOT through 2nd was as fast as I've taken it as I've been breaking it in.

So you think locking the converter was a bad idea? I was going to call Chris and get his opinion on locking it but I guess the damage is done. Another 4K down the tubes.

 

That is not for sure what is wrong but a good possibility. Without a good input shaft thats a big gamble at high HP levels locking the converter at WO.

 

Shame on your tuner. Locking it up under that much power without billet parts is nothing but asking for trouble. I've got the billet parts and a converter built to lock up under WOT, but I'm still not trying it.

 

Just curious but why the switch to the E38 T42 controller? How much boost are you running?

 

Someone planted a seed and since I only wanted the best for my vehicle I couldn't pass on the opportunity to do it while the motor was apart.

Before the lifter took out the old motor I was running ~18lbs, it ran good but never great. The tune was all scaled. Everyone kept telling me that my performance and daily drivability was as good as it can get due to the limitations on the Warren PCM. Since I had to have the motor refreshed there was no time better to switch from a 24x reluctor wheel to a 58x as well as the 4x cam positioning sensor. And being a techy I know more computer power is never a bad thing.

With the rebuild I threw a little more cam at, went bigger on the injectors and 1 7/8 longtubes and am only running 12lbs now. From what I was able to drive of it it was much smoother and more refined, even though I never got the chance to time her she felt as fast as it was with the higher boost.

The highest I ever saw the G-Tech hit with previous build was 731 HP so watching it pass 800 must mean something since its calculations are off of GPS acceleration and the mass of the vehicle.

 

Not sure I would put too much stock in those G-Tech numbers, not down playing anything I have just seen some pretty far fetched G-Tech readings over the years.

 

I am considering doing the transmission rebuild myself. Does anyone know of any good 4L80e rebuild manuals they would recommend?