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GM Drivetrain & Suspension Chassis | Transmission| Driveshaft | Gears/Rear End/Differential | Traction Aids

ECSB 4WD 4l60E to 4l80E

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Old 12-05-2008, 05:33 AM
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Originally Posted by howard quick
They look spot on. I'm going to look into them being available in 'pushlok' style fittings. I'd like to put the hard lines back in mine and just use those fittings at each end.
Howard, Long Manufacturing - Tru-Cool - Part # 735-9140. They worked great!
Old 12-05-2008, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by KySilverado
Fittings showed up. Got them on and the trans cooler plumbed up. Couple pictures to follow. SURPRISE Anyway got so excited to start it that I forgot to take any more after I got it plumbed.

Fired it up! WOOOOHOOOO. No unusual noises, no leaks, no codes and its pumping fluid. 12 qts in it so far. Can't run it through the gears till I get a drive shaft hooked up.
Congrats, man!! Awesome!!
Old 12-05-2008, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Yogi Bear
Congrats, man!! Awesome!!
Thanks Bro, feel good.
Old 12-05-2008, 04:00 PM
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Picked up the front drive shaft today. 2 salvage yards and about 150 miles to do it. At the first place I found a shaft from and 04 GMC 2500HD. Brought my original along to compare. It was the same length or a smidge shorter than the 1500 I had but smaller diameter. I about bought it anyway but they wanted to much for it. Glad I didn't. Left there and drove to another yard further down the interstate. A shaft I found there worked perfectly. Don't know the exact year but it came from a 2500HD with a Duramax. Or at least the emblems on it said so. The engine was gone. Didn't even know the 80E came behind a Duramax.

New Front Shaft - Vin #1GCHK29U83E103169 - Part# (from sticker on it) 15182094 - Cost $100

First shaft I found. Same length as the stocker and the joints were shot.
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Second shaft. Stocker 755mm CL of U-joint to CL of U-joint. New shaft 785mm CL of UJ to UJ.
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Gotta have the smaller diameter to clear the shifter linkage... along with the longer length.
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Splines end up just about flush in the joint. Fully engaged. Cleaned it up, new grease and added the rubber boot from the old shaft.
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On a bad note there were a couple small puddles of fluid under the truck this morning. Trans fluid. Front of the trans and the other end. I think the front is from the front seal, my last trans did that for a bit and finally cleared up. Hope this one does. The second leak appears to be coming from the transmission main electrical plug. It had been pushed out when I first got the trans. We'll see how it goes. Might wind up putting another plug in it??

Moved the truck out and back in the garage under its own power a couple times after getting the shaft in. Transmisson works Rev and 1st and the transfer case is working.

Last edited by KySilverado; 12-06-2008 at 08:05 AM.
Old 12-05-2008, 08:09 PM
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Yeah....my trans plug leaked for a bit. Eventually stopped.
Hope the front seal 'seals' up for you. That'd really suck after all the hard work. It looked fine in your pic's.
Old 12-05-2008, 10:02 PM
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Just finished hunting around at work and found a bucket of old compression fittings which contains about 50 of these...still in their packets.

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I'll order the female 'pushlok' barb fitting for the hose end.

What sort of hose did you end up using Roger?
I'm currently using Aeroquip...with no issues.
Old 12-06-2008, 08:10 AM
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Nothing special with the hoses. Used what came with the Tru-Cool cooler. May swap it out sometime soon.

No puddles under it this morning. DRY.
Old 12-06-2008, 11:32 AM
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figured id post this here since this is now the offical 4l80e swap thread

for the AWD guys out there, EAD performance makes custom input gear swaps for the AWD t-case NVG149, no output shaft change for the trans needed.

just ordered one for $415 shipped, that inclues the $80 core charge which you get back when you send your original input gear back to them

here is there number 586-473-6538 justin or tim

thanks chuck at FLT for the lead!!
Old 12-07-2008, 02:04 PM
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On to the rear drive shaft. Installed the Spicer 1350 yoke in the rear. This is temporary to get DS measurements. I'm going to error on the safe side and tear down the rearend, install a new crush sleeve, and set the pinion pre-load correctly. Some of the following information will not apply if you use the stock u-joints. The factory yoke is a tad shorter than the 1350.

The custom drive shaft places will have measurement sheets on their websites telling you what to measure from there.

Output shaft of transfer case. From end of case to end of shaft. 1 inch
Distance from end of transfer case to center line of u-joint of the rear end. 70.25 inches

There will be several questions regarding the joint so that they can determine what series joints to use but since I'm going 1350 I should be able to just specify that. I'm going to order a 3.5" steel shaft. Strongest they make. A 32 spline 1350 slip yoke on the transfer case end. The slip yoke is 7.875 CL of u-joint to tip with a 1.875 hub diameter. Basically the same dimesions as stock but with a 1350 joint.

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Last edited by KySilverado; 12-07-2008 at 05:59 PM.
Old 12-07-2008, 11:03 PM
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If a front DS from a 4x4 4l80e truck will work unmodified for the swap, would the rear shaft work too???


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