ECSB 4WD 4l60E to 4l80E
12-07-2008, 11:08 PM
#201
TECH Apprentice
I don't know about the slip yoke style but the front drive shaft from the 4x4 2500 truck I got my 80E from was exactly the same as my original front drive shaft (telescopic).
I had to have my rear drive shaft shortened 42mm.
I had to have my rear drive shaft shortened 42mm.
12-08-2008, 07:27 AM
#203
I don't think so. Unconfirmed. The 2500's are longer wheel base. Same distance from the transfer case to the front axle but much longer distance from the rear of the transfer case to the rear axle.
Last edited by KySilverado; 12-08-2008 at 02:18 PM.
12-08-2008, 06:44 PM
#205
TECH Junkie
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Im almost done with my swap. Also got my 2wd driveshaft modded.
What is the 1350 joint, I was told i have one now.
And a bastard joint? lol ive never had u-joint problems or mess with them at all....
What is the 1350 joint, I was told i have one now.
And a bastard joint? lol ive never had u-joint problems or mess with them at all....
12-08-2008, 06:57 PM
#206
It's a type of universal joint. There are several types, varying in size and strength by design. 1310, 1330, 3RL. The 1350 joint is arguably the strongest u-joint available.
To have a normal u-joint the caps and joint on each side of the star would be the same size. IE a 1310 joint would have 1310 sized caps on all 4 joints. Allowing the joint to connect a drive shaft to a yoke of the same size.
With a bastard univeral joint you can have a yoke of say 1310 then the driveshaft be a 1350. Two different size caps in the same universal joint.
That's why I changed the yoke in my rear end so that I could have a true 1350 joint. A bastard joint is only as strong as the weakest part.
Hope that makes sense.
To have a normal u-joint the caps and joint on each side of the star would be the same size. IE a 1310 joint would have 1310 sized caps on all 4 joints. Allowing the joint to connect a drive shaft to a yoke of the same size.
With a bastard univeral joint you can have a yoke of say 1310 then the driveshaft be a 1350. Two different size caps in the same universal joint.
That's why I changed the yoke in my rear end so that I could have a true 1350 joint. A bastard joint is only as strong as the weakest part.
Hope that makes sense.
12-08-2008, 07:26 PM
#207
Ahhh intercourse me. Getting ready to tear into the rear end. Pulled out my in/lb torque wrench and it starts at 20. Can't do my pinion setup with a used set of bearings.
Crap, gotta find another torque wrench... or buy new bearings.
Damnit.
Crap, gotta find another torque wrench... or buy new bearings.
Damnit.
Last edited by KySilverado; 12-09-2008 at 07:16 AM.
12-09-2008, 06:17 PM
#209
This step isn't necessary if you don't swap out universal joints. Above I show the new yoke installed. Now I've torn down the rear end to setup the pinion bearing pre-load.
Pull the wheels, calipers, and brackets. Drain the gear lube, remove the rear cover. I have a tru trac so in my case, remove snap ring on the diff, remove cover and spacer to get into the C-clips. Push the axles inward and with a magnet remove them. Slide the axles outward so that they clear the differential. Remove the bearing cover bolts and bearing caps on both sides. Gently pry out the differential, careful to keep the shims and bearing caps in order so they go back in on the same side. Go up front, remove the pinion nut. 2 jaw puller to pull the pinion yoke off. Put the old nut back on and gently persuade the pinion out with a hammer.
Waiting on new crush sleeves, another inch pound torque wrench and the drive shaft. Picked up some dino 75w-90 gear lube today along with a new cover gasket. My new yoke holding tool also showed up.
Carnage afterward.
All of this to get to the crush sleeve and replace it.
Pull the wheels, calipers, and brackets. Drain the gear lube, remove the rear cover. I have a tru trac so in my case, remove snap ring on the diff, remove cover and spacer to get into the C-clips. Push the axles inward and with a magnet remove them. Slide the axles outward so that they clear the differential. Remove the bearing cover bolts and bearing caps on both sides. Gently pry out the differential, careful to keep the shims and bearing caps in order so they go back in on the same side. Go up front, remove the pinion nut. 2 jaw puller to pull the pinion yoke off. Put the old nut back on and gently persuade the pinion out with a hammer.
Waiting on new crush sleeves, another inch pound torque wrench and the drive shaft. Picked up some dino 75w-90 gear lube today along with a new cover gasket. My new yoke holding tool also showed up.
Carnage afterward.
All of this to get to the crush sleeve and replace it.
