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GM Drivetrain & Suspension Chassis | Transmission| Driveshaft | Gears/Rear End/Differential | Traction Aids

ECSB 4WD 4l60E to 4l80E

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Old 12-09-2008, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by beastmode
Damn Roger... awesome write up!
Thanks Bro. What better way to up the post count
Old 12-10-2008, 05:21 PM
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I think my pump on my 80e is busted. Just got done with the install. No fluid pressure no gears.

dam the neutral safety switch is a PITA

How hard is it to change a pump? I wonder if I can find one. hmm

Last edited by charcold-bowtie; 12-10-2008 at 06:08 PM.
Old 12-10-2008, 08:39 PM
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Pump is pretty easy to change. Worst part is pulling the trany out again!
Old 12-11-2008, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by charcold-bowtie
I think my pump on my 80e is busted. Just got done with the install. No fluid pressure no gears.

dam the neutral safety switch is a PITA

How hard is it to change a pump? I wonder if I can find one. hmm
I kind of go over it in the thread somewhere. Not to difficult. Especially if you get one already assembled and aligned.

First time I pulled my transmission I unplugged the NSW. They have some kind of glue sealer in the damn thing. After that I just left it plugged up and pulled it all off as one unit. Even then ran into some issues with getting it on and off the shaft.

Originally Posted by howard quick
Pump is pretty easy to change. Worst part is pulling the trany out again!
True that mate!
Old 12-11-2008, 05:36 PM
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Getting impatient. I have crush sleeves on order. Didn't show up today so I went to the dealer and picked up a new sleeve.

GM Part # 8.6-10Bolt Crush Sleeve - 12479162 - $10.71

Install the new sleeve on the pinion and feed it back into the rear end from the rear. Install the the new pinion yoke and washer. I started the OLD nut and used an impact to pull the pinion and yoke together for a bit and then removed it. Lube the washer and install the new nut. I used the impact to slowly torque the nut down until there was no more play in the pinion. Drive the gun for a second, stop reach into the diff housing and the other hand on the yoke, push it back and forth to check for play. I stopped when I took up the play.

From here, when I get the proper torque wrench, I'll slowly torqe the nut little bits at a time and check the rotational torque until I get between 10 and 15 in/lb required to spin it.

Old crush sleeve right, new left.
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New crush sleeve on, new gasket on cover in background.
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New tool I picked up to help with this stage.
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Last edited by KySilverado; 12-11-2008 at 07:13 PM.
Old 12-11-2008, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by KySilverado
Getting impatient. I have crush sleeves on order. Didn't show up today so I went to the dealer and picked up a new sleeve.

GM Part # 8.6-10Bolt Crush Sleeve - 12479162 - $10.71

Install the new sleeve on the pinion and feed it back into the rear end from the rear. Install the the new pinion yoke and washer. I started the OLD nut and used an impact to pull the pinion and yoke together for a bit and then removed it. Lube the washer and install the new nut. I used the impact to slowly torque the nut down until there was no more play in the pinion. Drive the gun for a second, stop reach into the rear of the and the other hand on the yoke, push it back and forth to check for play. I stopped when I took up the play.

From here, when I get the proper torque wrench, I'll slowly torqe the nut little bits at a time and check the rotational torque until I get between 10 and 15 in/lb required to spin it.

Old crush sleeve right, new left.

New crush sleeve on, new gasket on cover in background.

New tool I picked up to help with this stage.
vary nice, i like that you are using all the proper tools and not riging everything, i just ordered the c-clamp for the torsion bars from me matco dealer today, expensive but a must have!

Last edited by KySilverado; 12-14-2008 at 05:13 PM.
Old 12-11-2008, 07:00 PM
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A tip I got was to crush the sleeve in a press just enough to get it started. It is damned hard to crush it from scratch with the diff in the truck.
You'll need a big bar on the socket wrench and it's a PIA because you have to crank, take that nice clamp off...check preload and repeat.....about 30 times. Go to far....new crush sleeve and start again.
Old 12-12-2008, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by lafnlt1
vary nice, i like that you are using all the proper tools and not riging everything, i just ordered the c-clamp for the torsion bars from me matco dealer today, expensive but a must have!
Thanks, yep the torsion bar tool is a must to remove the torsion keys... safely anyway.
I edited your post a bit.. Took the quoted pictures out.

Originally Posted by howard quick
A tip I got was to crush the sleeve in a press just enough to get it started. It is damned hard to crush it from scratch with the diff in the truck.
You'll need a big bar on the socket wrench and it's a PIA because you have to crank, take that nice clamp off...check preload and repeat.....about 30 times. Go to far....new crush sleeve and start again.
Great tip. I'll remember that the next time. Yes just about anything you do from the floor would be much easier on a lift. This included. Long bars and no room to maneuver them. What I lack in equipment I make up for with persistance.

Last edited by KySilverado; 12-14-2008 at 05:14 PM.
Old 12-13-2008, 04:49 PM
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this is a great write up!! what gears are you running?
Old 12-13-2008, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by venomhp
this is a great write up!! what gears are you running?
Thank you sir. Swapped to 4.10's about a year ago.


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